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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I not only have a swing arm support stand, I have a jack too that I got at Harbor Freight on sale for 50.00

I took off all the lower plastic and behold there is not frame running under the motor. There are 2 front frame down tube sections pointing down in front of motor and frame sections behind motor where there are some loops that maybe were there for a center stand.

It will take some framing with maybe 2x4's or such to notch out where it will support at various places. I have not made such a frame to sit on top of my jack yet for the ctx but I did one last week for my super magna.

anyway attached is picture of underside. Motor could support some weight but I would not trust all to ride on it.


no frame s.jpg
 

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Bill if you carve the lumber to fit around the oil pan hump the support would be on the pan bolts and walls. That would be sufficient to support the bike. For the rear I'd go for the center stand loops. Take a pic when you get it done so I can make one. I lift my GL1800 on the pan and exhaust with no issues.
 

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I've been looking at this too as I don't want to have a certain/special jack for every bike I own.

Problem is that there isn't a flat spot or even frame anywhere under it. Making the engine part of the frame as a "stressed member" reads cool in a brochure but it doesn't make the thing any easier to jack up. Not to mention we don't even know where the CG (center of gravity) is yet. Ask Honda and they'll probably say to just jack it up on the oil pan. No thanks, not me.

Right now I'm thinking maybe a pair of scissor jacks. With one of them I can rig something to catch it at where the center stand mounts are. Find someplace in the front. With two jacks you vary the height of one or the other in relation to the CG, plus wider base area. Haven't really thought about it much yet.

Scissor jacks aren't cheap, but flipping a bike off a jack is "priceless" (ask me how I know).

Edit: just saw your "more naked" pictures. Looks like I would try to grab it up around those front peg mounts (along with the center stand mount area). Those look pretty solid.
 

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The engine is held in place with rubber mounts, and I would be worried about the load placed on them from lifting the bike from the oil pan or engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When the time comes to get the front wheel off the ground I will take pictures but for now that is some time off. I will most likely put the swing arm stand on the back, then take two small floor jacks I have and lift under each front downtube around the peg mounts if I can. If not then rear stand and some sort of block under engine that distributes the weight evenly to the motor. I never jack against pipes even though most exhaust systems are pretty strong. Rubber mounts should be fine. They are new so should hold up.

I never use scissor jacks because they seem to me to be unstable and easily tipped over. Cheap hydraulic floor jacks are the way to go for me.
 

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Bike jack

Bill if you carve the lumber to fit around the oil pan hump the support would be on the pan bolts and walls. That would be sufficient to support the bike. For the rear I'd go for the center stand loops. Take a pic when you get it done so I can make one. I lift my GL1800 on the pan and exhaust with no issues.
I used this technique with my Valkyrie. It works great. I had the bike lift from sears.

Just Make a cut out to fit under the bike, a cut out for the engine would work to fit frame etc. I use floor jacks now.
 

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Well, looks like I'll be the one to figure it out first.

Wife had a duel with a curb -- curb won. She then went down in probably the only soft, sandy patch for 100 miles. Talk about luck... A little scrape on the fairing, a little scrape on the bag, mirror, little bit on the lower plastic. Can probably rub out most of the scrapes on the paint to probably 90% good. Everything else looks ok.

Front rim is bent beyond hope at the bead. I was shocked that the tire held air and that the rim bent as far as it did without cracking/breaking.

Rear rim is bent just a little at the bead. Some guys would probably just leave it.

Looks like 1 rim, 1 rim to straighten, 2 tires. Ouch.

She got a little bump on her wrist and ankle. Nothing serious at all, but just enough to remind her how lucky she was.

Thinking about using wood to span across the front around where the pegs are, jack it up it the middle with my floor jack, and then catch it on both sides with jack stands. Just thinking about it, haven't really even looked at it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, looks like I'll be the one to figure it out first.

Wife had a duel with a curb -- curb won. She then went down in probably the only soft, sandy patch for 100 miles. Talk about luck... A little scrape on the fairing, a little scrape on the bag, mirror, little bit on the lower plastic. Can probably rub out most of the scrapes on the paint to probably 90% good. Everything else looks ok.

Front rim is bent beyond hope at the bead. I was shocked that the tire held air and that the rim bent as far as it did without cracking/breaking.

Rear rim is bent just a little at the bead. Some guys would probably just leave it.

Looks like 1 rim, 1 rim to straighten, 2 tires. Ouch.

She got a little bump on her wrist and ankle. Nothing serious at all, but just enough to remind her how lucky she was.

Thinking about using wood to span across the front around where the pegs are, jack it up it the middle with my floor jack, and then catch it on both sides with jack stands. Just thinking about it, haven't really even looked at it yet.
glad she is ok. Hope she still likes to ride.

Having had all the plastic off the bottom. My lift plans have changed. I have 2 cheap floor jacks and a swing arm lift. so I would remove the lower plastics, put the rear stand on to upright the bike. put a bungie cord on each mirror and string it back to the tie down loops to hold the front straight. Then I would jack under the front foot pegs as they are on the main down tubes. I would probably put some rubber on the jack lift point to not scratch the bike.
Be sure to loosen the axle bolts before lifting so you don't have to pull much while bike is in the air. Also tie the brake caliper back out of the way and insert something about the size of the disc so the pucks stay pushed in. also, when you get the wheel off place a support under both fork ends and that will ad more stability while it sits without a tire on the front.

I bent the lip of my rim hitting a big rock straight on. I put masking tape over the bent area, then took a block of wood, and a very big hammer and supported the other side and whacked it a couple of times. It bent back as good as new. wood should be just big enough for the peak of the bend.

good luck.
 

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I similarly laid mine down once, much like I did the scooter one time; trying to do the same, stupid thing. I was trying to ride the bike around the carport into my dedicated shed before I had enough experience riding to ensure that I wouldn't go into the soft gravel just to the right of my patio. I under steered because I was being overly cautious not to hit the carport; went into the soft gravel as I was still turning; and put the bike down on its left side, however, unlike with the scooter which did all kinds of bad stuff, due to the low CG of the bike and the fact that this bike likes so much to stay upright, it sort of just eased over, and since I was able to keep my left leg under the bike, I simply just raised it right back up. I found no damage or scuffs whatsoever, but I did see a little brake fluid splattered about the left handle bar area.

Glad she's okay.
 

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Yep. In an odd way I'm kind of glad this happened how and when it did. See why you wear those gloves? See why you wear those boots?? Uh huh.....

Some bike damage but not too much. Some damage to her but not too much.

She overshot a curve and over the curb she went. #1 cause of new rider single-vehicle crashes -- misjudging speed and entering a corner too fast. When she got into the soft stuff she grabbed the front brake too hard and poof, down goes Debi. Although in my estimation she could've made that corner easily, but her bike handling skills are way too green. She actually did an amazing job of missing some obstacles. She said she consciously tried to miss them and did. I'm suprised she didn't get pitched off the bike going over the curb. I told her that if she was truly that aware and could think that fast while crashing, then she was going to be an alright rider.

Did I mention she was following me? After I got around the corner I looked in the mirror and saw her entering the corner. When I looked in my mirror again 2 seconds later -- didn't see her. I thought she had pulled over for some reason. U-turned real quick and got back there... Crap! I knew some how some way it would end up being my fault..... Lol

Scared her straight I would say. She's a new rider. Don't get overconfident I would say. Don't get cocky. She gets it now. Lol

I'll make sure some of the marks remain on the bike, so every time she walks up it will remind her. I'll probably hang that rim prominently in the garage.

I'll take my sweet time fixing it too.

So all in all this was a good thing for her in the long run.

Take care y'all!!!
 

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Well, I'm very sorry it happened. But she is OK, and the bike can get fixed. If its any consolation, there are only TWO kinds of riders: those who HAVE dropped a bike, and those who WILL.

Everyone else is just plain lying.

Ride Safe, Ride Often,
f
 

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I bought a Harbor freight Stand #97841 w/ coupon for $43. and change..It will hold the ctx up right for all servicing and wash jobs,just can't get the rear wheel off the ground for chain service.....will solve that problem with the center stand when the pocket book allows....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I bought a Harbor freight Stand #97841 w/ coupon for $43. and change..It will hold the ctx up right for all servicing and wash jobs,just can't get the rear wheel off the ground for chain service.....will solve that problem with the center stand when the pocket book allows....
The stand I use now for the CTX does lift the rear wheel off the ground but I had a SRX600 that was too tall for it to fully lift the wheel. Solution was to put two 1 by 4 strips of wood on each side under the rollers on the stand. Solid and worked fine.
 

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where to put a jack

This is what I got to use till I can buy the C.Stand......Hope these photos show up on here we had a time trying to get them uploaded....
IMG_0031.jpg

IMG_0032.jpg
 

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Although I've mentioned this in a couple of other threads, I think it is worthy to keep posting for those tracking these threads and/or looking for solutions for raising their bikes and/or holding it upright. There are two pieces of equipment that one should avoid from Cycle Gear.

Do not buy Cycle Gear's front wheel chock, Trackside Roll On Wheel Chock that is on sale for $69.99. Although this chock is supposed to work for wheels/tires up to 140 mm, it is not wide enough to work smoothly with the CTX. The only way I could get the front tire to roll into the chock was to put the chock against a foundation and force it in with ramming speed even in all three adjustments. Getting the front wheel back out was even tougher.

TRACKSIDE - Roll On Wheel Chock - Tie-downs - Transport & Storage - Accessories - CycleGear - Cycle Gear

Likewise, don't buy the regularly-priced, $79.99 front stand; Trackside Front Wheel Stand. The $109.99, regularly-priced front stand works, but not the cheaper stand, but the better stand is on sale for $49.99. Again, with respect to the lower-quality front stand, as is the case with the front wheel, roll on chock, the stand width adjustments do not go out wide enough for the pads to to clear the wheel rim.

TRACKSIDE - Front Stand - Front Stands - Stands - Accessories - CycleGear - Cycle Gear

Trackside is a Cycle Gear only brand. They have good prices, but one has to be careful to choose equipment that will work with the CTX, regardless of what the package states.
 
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