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So I took my bike over to my dealer to replace my rear tire after picking up a screw last Friday. While he is filling out the paper work I casually ask him if the rear shock can be adjusted stiffer, because I have to walk over every speed bump where I live otherwise I bottom out. He said sure we can adjust it, he showed me where the adjustment rings where, so since he had be remove the rear tire anyway I told me to go ahead and adjust the rear shock. When I went to pick up the bike, he did say that he thought the bike was spongy. Well after the new tire and and the shock adjustment the bike feels GOOOOD and no more having to walk over the speed bumps at my residence.

I went through the owner manual over the weekend and there is no mention of adjusting the rear shock, so I thought this might be worth while to post

VenturaHwy:cool:
 

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Thanks VenturaHwy for mentioning. Its actually called adjusting the shock preload and mentioned quite a lot here on the forum. Many of us have questioned the wisdom of leaving this extremely important resource out of the owners manual.
 

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Check out the GonzoShock mod to make it even better. It's not too hard to do - and the benefits are awesome!
 

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How do you do it? Any videos or instructions out there?
YouTube has many tutorials on how to adjust the shock preload on a Honda Pro-Link rear suspension. You will need a spanner wrench or motorcycle shock adjustment tool sold at any motorcycle shop or dealer. The cost will be around $20.


Without making this too complicated, basic preload will be determined by how much the bike squats when you sit on it. You can easily determine this by measuring a fixed point on the rear of the bike and the ground using a measuring tape. The bike needs to be standing up without any rider weight on it so its best to have a second person do the measuring. Measure again with you sitting on the bike in the normal riding position. 30mm or 1" is the optimum amount of squat for the CTX.


To make the adjustment to the shock, you will need to find the top of the shock. You should see 2 rings and a threaded portion. Loosen the top locking ring counter clockwise.. Then turn the lower ring clockwise to about midway. Sit on the bike and bounce up and down to determine how the bike feels. Too firm, loosen the ring. Not firm enough, continue tightening in small increments or 2 threads at a time. Recheck the feel after each adjustment. Once you think the bike feels good, tighten the upper ring and take it for a ride. If satisfied, your done. If not, reloosen the lock ring and continue making adjustments.


One thing to remember. Big bumps are still big bumps so no amount of preload adjustment will make them go away. You can make the preload too firm. This is usually indicated when normal surface irregularities or cracks in the pavement becoming annoying. Added weight such as another person or accessories ( loaded bags) may throw off the adjustment requiring additional adjustment to the preload.
 

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Where do I get info on the washers and how to use them? Are they there to increase the preload tension?


Thanks
The gonzo mod addresses the lack of travel or adjustment in the rear shock, this simply adds length to the shock.
 

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Actually you do not need any special tool. Just a long screw driver and a hammer and it is easy to knock the lock ring loose and tightening the lower ring in the same way. After that tighten the lock ring back on top of the adjustment ring.

Anders
 

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Where do I get info on the washers and how to use them? Are they there to increase the preload tension?


Thanks
Search is your friend... :)

It does allow more preload tension, as you now have an additional 10mm of tensioning in your spring. It adds more compression on the shock (10mm to be exact - 2.5mm per washer) so your collar can now tighten the spring even further. I have four on my spring, and the preload collar is turned down about 8mm. That's a bit more than you could ever get with the preload collar on its own.

You also want to trim the rubber stop! Take a good 15-16mm off of it, that's consuming over an inch of travel on its own. Trimming it down is, IMHO, as important as increasing the preload. Both eat up valuable travel.
 

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It still doesn't address the issue that for larger people/heavier loads, that the shock dampening isn't very good. By cranking up the preload the spring for me even more overwhelms the dampening. I have a terrible issue with the bike pogo'ing in sweeping turns unless I am riding very sedately. There is clearly a lack of rebound dampening and increasing the preload just makes it worse. In straight line riding it isn't as noticeable but it is still there.
 

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It still doesn't address the issue that for larger people/heavier loads, that the shock dampening isn't very good. By cranking up the preload the spring for me even more overwhelms the dampening. I have a terrible issue with the bike pogo'ing in sweeping turns unless I am riding very sedately. There is clearly a lack of rebound dampening and increasing the preload just makes it worse. In straight line riding it isn't as noticeable but it is still there.
It is what it is. Lets be frank, its a $6000 - 8000.00 dollar cruiser that actually handles better than any other bike in its class. You've really got to get into the $12,000 - 16,000 dollar range sport touring bike to get a premium, fully adjustable shock with good dampening. The CTX is a lot of fun to ride in the twisties but its just not designed to nor intended too be ridden in the type of riding your probably used to.


Most people are looking for additional comfort over rough surfaces or the occasional hard bump. Adjusting the preload or even performing the Gonzo mod for heavier riders usually helps quite a bit. When compared to the Kawasaki S or HD Street 750, the CTX outshines them both by a huge margin. Try taking either one into some hard curves or over some rough, wavy roads and you'll see what I mean.
 

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So I took my bike over to my dealer to replace my rear tire after picking up a screw last Friday. While he is filling out the paper work I casually ask him if the rear shock can be adjusted stiffer, because I have to walk over every speed bump where I live otherwise I bottom out. He said sure we can adjust it, he showed me where the adjustment rings where, so since he had be remove the rear tire anyway I told me to go ahead and adjust the rear shock. When I went to pick up the bike, he did say that he thought the bike was spongy. Well after the new tire and and the shock adjustment the bike feels GOOOOD and no more having to walk over the speed bumps at my residence.

I went through the owner manual over the weekend and there is no mention of adjusting the rear shock, so I thought this might be worth while to post

VenturaHwy:cool:
Man that was good advice because my rear feels funny when I go around curves because I ride 2 up a lot and we both are in our 190s weight range.
 

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The OEM shock isn't up to the rest of the bikes capabilities. Weak spring and dampening with very little pre load adjustment. A straight swap out can be had for under $400 and is very user installable (or shop charge of an hour)
Hi hiklbery: what is teh shock that you installed as a replacement? Where do you hail from, noting that familiar leaf? You can update on your profile so everyong knows where you are from.
 

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Hi hiklbery: what is teh shock that you installed as a replacement? Where do you hail from, noting that familiar leaf? You can update on your profile so everyong knows where you are from.
I'm actually in San Diego CA, the Canadian thing was simply where my VPN was at the time I posted the message.
The shock is a YSS, while budget friendly I have very good performance from their products

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