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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Not sure of the proper forum but I was hoping someone could detail the process for eliminating the play that has accumulated in my throttle grip. I have had it adjusted once already but it has loosened up again.

Thanks,
Ryan
 

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There are two cables running to the throttle. One of them has a nut and a hex section. loosen the nut and rotate the hex section in or out as needed to adjust. Then tighten the nut back down to lock it in place..
 

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Ryan,
the top throttle cable at the bars has a nut and adjuster. Loosen the two. turn the adjuster (smaller hex and long) away from the nut to take up slack. Turn till you get the slack or lack of it that you desire. tighten the lock nut. Start the bike and test it. Cables stretch and periodically need taken up. If your bike does not idle corrrectly once warm, you have no slack and need to re-adjust it because it is holding the throttle open.

a properly adjusted throttle cable makes for more comfortable controlled riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I will have a look when I get back home. Absolutely living the bike over the last couple of months and have joined a group in the city here and gone for a few weekly rides.

Thanks all!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Exactly as described. Worked like a charm!

Thanks very much for the clear instruction!

Ryan
 

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anyone find the throttle too sensitive? Its hard to be smooth with it especially when turning...

edit - just re-read Billnoroville's comment about control - maybe the cable freeplay is related to the sensitivity.
 

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anyone find the throttle too sensitive? Its hard to be smooth with it especially when turning...

edit - just re-read Billnoroville's comment about control - maybe the cable freeplay is related to the sensitivity.
I have experience with only two powered-two wheelers. The CTX and a Piaggio BV350 scooter. The scooter was much, much more sensitive. A couple of times early on in my progression of learning to ride the scooter, I accelerated at a time that I was purposely decelerating only because my winter glove slightly grabbed and rolled on the throttle as I was pulling back on the front brake. Talk about sensitive. That sucker was sensitive. So to me, the CTX is just right, but it's all relative, and that's all I have to relate it to.
 

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anyone find the throttle too sensitive? Its hard to be smooth with it especially when turning...

edit - just re-read Billnoroville's comment about control - maybe the cable freeplay is related to the sensitivity.
try a higher gear at the same slow speed, the motor will sort of lug but be smoother around a turn than say first gear were the engine is wound up more and easier to be jerky around rough bumpy intersections. my 2 cents only.
 

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Throttle

I agree with Billnoroville on higher gear & slow speed. I use 2nd gear and 5-7 mph with clutch in the friction zone and a little rear brake. Works nicely for U-turns.
 

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the throttle on the ctx 700 seems pretty sedate compared to my sfv 650, which is pretty notchy with an almost binary fuel mapping on open. and compared to the z1000 and ducati diavel i test rode, recently? the ctx feels like a slug off the line! ;-)
 

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the throttle on the ctx 700 seems pretty sedate compared to my sfv 650, which is pretty notchy with an almost binary fuel mapping on open. and compared to the z1000 and ducati diavel i test rode, recently? the ctx feels like a slug off the line! ;-)

you cant really compare a CTX to a Z1000 or a Diavel. Double the horsepower and you get quiet a different feeling on every aspect of a bike. Throttle response and getting off the line for instance. The CTX would always seem like a slug and besides it is not in anyway a performance oriented bike like those you mentioned. We like our slugs I bet. Granted, power is fun.
 

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Slugs are all that I know and all that I care to know at this point. If I owned a Ferrari, and then flew an F22 Raptor, I'd sell the Ferrari believing it was a slug. Like everything else, speed and acceleration is relative.
 

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After reading this thread I realized that my throttle had gone out of adjustment. It happened so slowly that I didn't even notice it. Anyway, I found it rather hard to do figure 8's, the power was either too much or none at all. I thought it was me and that I had lost my ability of ride a bike. Readjusting the throttle brought back my ridding skills.

Thank you.
 

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How did you readjust the throttle?
If you look on the hand grip you will see 2 cables going into it. One cable is smooth so there isn't anything to adjust there, but the other one has has a "small" black rubber boot over the adjustment nuts. You pull the boot back and you will see a nut and a longer nut. You loosen the nut and then turn the longer one until the throttle play is where you want it. One set, you tighten the small nut up against the longer one and pull the boot back over it. Make sure you test it with the engine running. If it's too tight the engine will idle too high. in that case just back it off a little and you're good to go. Btw, if you ever run out of adjustment room, you can adjust the cable from the other end, but I imagine that would require taking some tupperware off. I didn't have to do that.


I hope this helps.

One more thing, when testing it, if you have the DCT don't put the bike in gear if the idle is too high or you might be chasing your ride down the street.
 

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The DCT will only start in neutral so it shouldn't go running down the street. However the computer may not like the throttle response if it is set out of range, and could throw an error.
 

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The DCT will only start in neutral so it shouldn't go running down the street. However the computer may not like the throttle response if it is set out of range, and could throw an error.
What I meant was that you start the bike in neutral for the test, but if the idle is high, don't switch it into drive. I'm not sure you can, but as a precaution, it's a good idea.

Computers, it's a love hate relationship.
 

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Idle speed for the CTX is 1250 rpm +/- 50. Clutch speed engagement for the DCT is 1450 rpm +/- 50. The DCT will not shift out of neutral if you try to shift while the engine rpm is over the engagement speed. Adjusting the throttle to remove slack to suit your personal preference is easy to do so long as you don't increase engine rpm. Keep in mind that a touchy throttle can be hazardous and can also create a sticky throttle if the grip rubs against the bar weight or dirt and debris works its way into the throttle mechanism. Greasing the mechanism should also be part of the regular maintenance schedule.
 

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You guys are adjusting the throttle wrong. You should be adjusting while the engine is off for one thing. The throttle tube should always have some play to it, it should never be tight or moving off of idle. It should have ruffly 2 mm of play.
 
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