CTX 700 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
In honor of Ben (GonzoB) who invented this mod, I hereby christen it the GonzoShock mod! And in honor of Ralph (PonyDrvr) who found the proper metal washers to use for the spacers, I call his tweak on this mod the PonyTweak.

Here are the steps:

1. Procure a CTX700

2. Procure the PonyTweak washers (highly recommended!)

3. Procure the following tools:
A. 5mm allen wrench
B. 6mm allen wrench
C. 8mm allen wrench
D. 12mm open end wrench
E. 14mm open end wrench
F. 17mm open end wrench
G. Spring compressor (VERY handy)
H. Hammer
I. Large flat blade screwdriver
J. Cleaning rags and water
K. Utility knife

4. Start by removing the bodywork from the tank back (NOTE: my photos show a bit more removed than that - I did quite a bit of wiring at the same time, and will show those mods in another thread):


Left side stripped


Right side stripped
 
  • Like
Reactions: dabsdog and fjones

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Make sure and keep your fasteners and body panels and parts nicely organized!



I like to place each part face-down on a cardboard box, and place the fasteners in the part. That way they don't get mixed up or lost at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First nut to remove: the linkage bolt!



Used a 14mm box end wrench on the right side, and an 8mm allen key on the left. Conveniently you can use the frame of the bike to secure the allen key and keep the bolt from turning:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Next, remove the lower shock bolt and nut:



A few wrenches, a little swearing as I banged my knuckles, and it's ready to go.

By the way, I "punch out" the bolts from the right side, using the hammer and flat bladed screwdriver. Pushes them right out!
 
  • Like
Reactions: fjones

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You now have the linkage hanging free:



Next step is NOT photographed - I couldn't get a decent photo! But you remove the bolt on the top of the shock. It's buried in pretty deep, but it's easy to spot and identify as it's the only bolt in that area that is near/through the shock.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fjones

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The shock is free! Pull it out. I used the hammer and screwdriver to loosen the locking preload ring, and then hand-spun the locking ring off. Then loosened the preload ring the same way:

 
  • Like
Reactions: fjones

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here's the shock disassembled (as far as you want to take it):



That's the bumper collar shown there, and the spring goes over the outside of it. Pull the spring and the collar. And get out your utility knife.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fjones

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I measured 20.5mm of bumper height. So I trimmed off 9.5mm - that gives me 25.4mm (1 inch) of extra motion):



I simply used a fresh blade on the utility knife. A light cut all around the first time, then another half-dozen passes and it was done:



Then, just put it back together!

1. The bumper collar
2. Two of the PonyTweak washers
3. The spring
4. Two more PonyTweak washers
5. Use spring compressor to compress the spring so I can start the preload collar
6. Put on the preload collar
7. Adjust to where I want it (5 threads showing - I'm a heavy boy!)
8. Add the preload lock collar
9. Reassemble everything

Overall it took about 2 hours, with half of that removing/installing everything. Adjusting the preload after the mod and tweaks took the longest - it's slow going, even with a spring compressor. But all in all, a VERY worthwhile mod!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,250 Posts
Warning!

For those without a centerstand, you have to jack the bike up or you will have a disaster!

How to jack without a center stand:


You can jack the bike up with the bike on the side stand. Place a jack underneath the center stand hole that is exposed in this photo next to the exhaust pipe. Only jack as high as needed.



Those with any type of rear stand can jack from the same location, or jack from the opposite side for more room to work as shown in this photo.

Also be aware, once you remove one of the bolts holding the suspension together, the rear swing arm, rear wheel etc. will fall to the ground as it will no longer be held up. So, watch yourself and be prepared. You can prop something under the rear wheel so it is easier to work with removing and reinstalling the suspension.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,250 Posts
Nice work Dan, but there is no need to remove all the rear body panels as you mentioned. Look at mine, all you need to really remove is the aluminum panel on the right side. You will have to loosen the rear cowl and cover on the right side some to do so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nice work Dan, but there is no need to remove all the rear body panels as you mentioned. Look at mine, all you need to really remove is the aluminum panel on the right side. You will have to loosen the rear cowl and cover on the right side some to do so.
Yeah, I've never been comfortable loosening cowlings and tucking others underneath. It takes just a few minutes to do - and having the extra light is nice! And it's what Honda recommends in their service manual.

Plus I did a few other tweaks at the same time - brake modulator, turn signal LED ballast resistors, wiring for a ProOiler, etc.

Everyone should strip their bike at least once... :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
A good how-to Dan. And thanks for the credits.

R13's right - it would be tricky without a centrestand.

I didn't see the washers there - are they the 3.5mm ones that Ponydrvr used?

You brought up a point that I experienced too - winding up the preload against the new spacers gets very difficult with the extra force needed. You need to make sure the adjuster threads are well greased.

Gonzo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice job Dan. Thankyou. The only thing I miss is the photo of the completed shock before the final installation.
Ahh, yeah - couldn't find a photo of that. Looks like the one PonyDrvr posted earlier - imagine a pair of washers on each end of the spring!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
A good how-to Dan. And thanks for the credits.

R13's right - it would be tricky without a centrestand.

I didn't see the washers there - are they the 3.5mm ones that Ponydrvr used?

You brought up a point that I experienced too - winding up the preload against the new spacers gets very difficult with the extra force needed. You need to make sure the adjuster threads are well greased.

Gonzo
Used the exact same washers - four of them. Worked great. And the spring compressor made adjustment easy.

I figure if I need to change the preload, it may just be easier to pull the shock than trying to fidget inside with a long punch/screwdriver and some tapping. Now that I know how it all comes off and goes together, I can probably pull and remount the shock in about 30 minutes - and then adjust without any problem.

And yes, a center stand makes it MUCH easier to do!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
357 Posts
I found an alternative that may work for some if they don't have a centerstand. I looped a very heavy duty tiedown over a rafter in my garage. I took soft loop tiedown straps and ran them by the seat. It easily supports the bike and I can easily raise or lower the bike relative to the wheel to take any tension off the bolts when inserting or removing.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,571 Posts
Did mine a week or so ago and thought it was time for comments
I have no centerstand and there was no need to jack up the bike. I did place a scissor jack under the right side of the transmission so that it and the engine would not drop when I took the shock out. No lift really, just hold everything in place.
It went well, I used a spacer obtained from dyenfd who made a few and offered them up for 5 bucks-a great deal for those of us who cannot fab one ourselves.
I am amazed at the difference in ride quality, feels like a different bike.
Next I will revisit the thread on modifying the front forks and will likely do that in a few weeks.
I highly recommend the "gonzo mod" and/or the "ponydriver tweak"-well worth the time and effort.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
GonzoShock with PonyTweak

I am interested in trying this modification, but am not sure what washers to fit and where to fit them. Is here somebody who can explain about the washers. This is also my first time in a forum
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
I am interested in trying this modification, but am not sure what washers to fit and where to fit them. Is here somebody who can explain about the washers. This is also my first time in a forum
You can order the washers at Fastenal and they are 2x3 10 gauge washer. I just put 4 on my shock. I put 2 on the bottom and 2 on the top. You will need to compress the spring some to get the adjuster not back on. You do not have to compress it to remove the nuts from the stock set up.
David
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top