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After about a thousand miles on my 2018 CTX I upgraded my suspension. Too many painful experiences riding over bumps and ruts. I contacted Ted Porters Suspension Shop (aka BeemerShop) Wilbers Suspension | Custom Built Motorcycle Shocks for All Brands and after discussion of my riding style, etc and what I wanted from my upgrade they made recommendations. I received a Wilbers 641 3 way- spring preload, compression and rebound damping adjustable with hydraulic preload adjuster. I also purchased two Wilber fork springs. Had it all installed at my local Honda dealer. The whole process was pricey but I now have a much more comfortable and safer bike that I can really enjoy riding. My typical ride is from Albuquerque to Sandia Crest. The ride involves a lot of switch backs and ends at the top of Sandia Crest at 10,400 feet. I ride with sport bike riders and guys on powerful dual sports. I can now keep up on curves but still lag on straight aways. You can only do so much with 50 horse power! I have a much better bike that is more comfortable than any bike I have ever owned and handles like a sport bike!
 

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After about a thousand miles on my 2018 CTX I upgraded my suspension. Too many painful experiences riding over bumps and ruts. I contacted Ted Porters Suspension Shop (aka BeemerShop) Wilbers Suspension | Custom Built Motorcycle Shocks for All Brands and after discussion of my riding style, etc and what I wanted from my upgrade they made recommendations. I received a Wilbers 641 3 way- spring preload, compression and rebound damping adjustable with hydraulic preload adjuster. I also purchased two Wilber fork springs. Had it all installed at my local Honda dealer. The whole process was pricey but I now have a much more comfortable and safer bike that I can really enjoy riding. My typical ride is from Albuquerque to Sandia Crest. The ride involves a lot of switch backs and ends at the top of Sandia Crest at 10,400 feet. I ride with sport bike riders and guys on powerful dual sports. I can now keep up on curves but still lag on straight aways. You can only do so much with 50 horse power! I have a much better bike that is more comfortable than any bike I have ever owned and handles like a sport bike!
I've already converted my rear to an NC750x aftermarket shock, but I'm sure that suffering folks that haven't done anything would like to know how much of an out-the-door investment will be required to do your options.

TIA! :nerd:
 

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JWW19, congrats, I am sure that Wilbers are fine and you'll be happy. I also ended up to Wilbers 641, but the German dealer (using name Bikers-Top-Brands in eBay) sent me model 640 and charged the 641 price. Additionally they answered to my feedback in a impolite and arrogant way, so I had to send it back. They still refused to pay the return postage. I changed to Ohlins designed for NC700X. The main difference is in the shock stroke. Wilbers' stroke is about the same as the OEM. Ohlins gives more room for tuning by changing suspension links. There is much room for it without risk of hitting to the rear fender. Which one is better Wilbers or Ohlins, I have no answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I ordered the shock/fork springs I was asked if I wanted to keep seat height unchanged. I didn't want a change in seat height because that's what I liked about the bike in the first place. Also, I didn't want to mess with the side stand. So, the answer is no! Total cost was around $1800 for parts and installation. The information from Wilbers regarding the custom shock was set to the following: rebound damping was 12/22 clicks open, compression-damping (low speed) 12/22 clicks open, compression damping (high speed) 12/22 clicks open and spring preload 10 mm, spring rate/length 200-130. The shock was custom made to my weight and driving style (likely no touring or pillion) and took 4-6 weeks to receive. I don't really understand exactly what all the above means but looks like I have plenty of available adjustment one way or the other. I can make the adjustments remotely which is a big plus. I was going to buy just the shock but I was encouraged to buy fork springs as well, and I am glad I did since the springs were not all that expensive and I can tell how much better the bike handles with better fork springs.
 

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JWW19,
Thanks for this. I have about a thousand miles on my CTX as well, and I am looking to upgrade my suspension this winter or early spring. Like you, I am not interested in changing ride height, I just want a better ride. I could do the work myself, but if I trusted a shop around here, I would gladly pay them to do it. On the other hand, Scotts Valley is not so far away that I couldn’t ride down there and have Ted’s people do the work. The traffic can be insane on the faster direct routes down, but I could spend the night and come home up Highway 1 along the beautiful Pacific coast. I think I see a plan taking shape...
 

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I too spent some change to upgrade my suspension. The mods I made early on helped the ride a bunch for the better. After 70,000 mi and 5 years time it was worn out. I was convinced that I really needed a suspension upgrade. The cost was more than OEM but the result was a suspension upgrade. What a difference!
 

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Just ordered the Wilber rr shock last week, 641 with hydraulic preload as well. Just have to wait for it to arrive in the mail.
Pierre
 

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Received in the mail yesterday. Likely install on the weekend. Rain here until then anyways.
86087
 

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Post some pics installed. Im curious where you mounted the adjusters/res.
 

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Per the photos, reservoir on the left side and the preload adjuster on the right side. Putting the shock in required a couple hands to do a few things at the same time but I got it done. The reservoir has to squeeze through the opening by the gusset at the rear of the engine. Tight but get through. The adjuster is a bit easier as it can be moved after the shock is lifted into it position.
I have a center stand so a bit easier.
Remove the left and right black side panels, upper and lower as per instructions in the manual.
Unbolt the links, either at the top or bottom and let hang 17 mm and 14 mm wrench/sockets
Remove the two bolts that mount the shock. 17 mm socket and 5/16 or 8 mm Allen key for the upper. 17 mm and 15 mm for the lower.
Drop the old shock and lift the new into position while feeding the reservoir higher to grasp it to feed out side of the frame.
May have to lift the rear tire to get clearance to remove and install the shocks.
Install upper bolt with grease on the bolt surface.
Install lower bolt again greased.
Maneuver the rear tire to help align the link bolt to ease its installation.
Tighten all bolts/nuts to factory torque settings
Mount reservoir using supplied rubber mounts and tie straps.
Remove the muffler mounting nut and install the bracket.
Install adjuster to the bracket.

I would of changed the length of the reservoir hose by 1” longer and the hose fitting should be centered. Per the photo it points a little bit up, would be better centered or slightly down for clearance around a bolt head and a part of the frame.

These pictures are upside down

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