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OK, so I started up the 2015 CTXDCT after a month or so of sitting (mid-Florida; great weather) and drove about 3 miles into a WaWa to check tire pressure so turned her off. Tires OK and turned on the key, wait 5 secs for everything to settle and....click. Again, click. Just one click each time. Tried about 5 more times after doing a mental and physical check of all conditions with no luck. Figured a marginal (original YUASA) battery so called the wife to bring me cables.

Jumped it right off, started quick like normal so I rode straight home and started to look for a replacement. However, it starts right up after I pulled in and shut her down. Checked the battery and it's at 13.0v and the automatic charger says it's at 100%. Turned it to the 2amp setting and after about 30 seconds the charger kicks off and says all is well at 100%.

I guess it's probably time for a new battery anyway but now I'm concerned just what the heck happened. Any thoughts?
 

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You need a battery. Volts don't mean much here, it is all about the amp's. You need a lot of current to turn the starter motor and current is amp's!


If you ever forget, just remember most batteries are rated by cold cranking amps (CCA) and that is cause that is when the battery works the hardest, cranking and in the cold is the worst case scenario and the amp's are what you need.
 

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howdy, had the same problem. started fine and drove 4 miles and shut off. when trying to re-start, just clicks. jump start fine. it worked one more time and failed again. new battery solved problem. the battery had lasted from new and made five years.
get a new one. almost gaurantee that's the problem.
ken
 

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Unsolicited advice, buy an AGM Yuasa battery. Easy three years in Florida...about 110.00, or 35 bucks a year for peace of mind. And, someone here in the forum gave me the advice to check the date code when you get the battery...make sure it's relatively new!
 

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Top battery should be 14.4 not 13
That is probably exactly what is wrong...
Had the same thing happen
New battery ...
I'm good...


Perfect start everytime....
I’m sure he is talking 13V with bike off. That’s where a good 12V battery will be at.

It could be a time for replacement, or not. Bike was sitting for 1 month, it started, 3 mile ride is not even close to enough to charging it, so it failed to re-start. Nothing to lose trying it now that’s properly charged. Again, 3 mile rides won’t do to keep it charged.

At 5 years, if it is the original, chances are it is time for a new one.
 

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I worked in a battery shop in the military waaaaay back....
A good non-technical explanation is....
It's all about capacity....amperage.....not voltage....voltage is just the road capacity uses to do work...


A new battery is like a full bathtub
An old battery is like a shot glass


They both can be "FULL" but a shot glass won't do it while a bathtub has plenty of capacity...
 

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I have a 2014 CTX DCT and I have found that the headlight will be bright but it will not crank. The system needs to see 11.9 volts or better with key on or it will not crank. That is what my testing has found.
 

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Make sure you always put it in neutral before you shut it off. If the battery is weak when you turn the key on, the headlight is burning on a fused 15 amp circuit, the fuel pump runs and the shift motor has to run to reset the transmission to neutral before you even hit the starter button. If its already in neutral you have lightened the load and wear and tear on the battery and shift motor. Take the battery to most any auto parts dealer that sell batteries or Batteries Plus and have it tested for free. Most can do a conductance test where they calibrate the tester to the CA or CCA of your battery to get an accurate reading of its ability to deliver cranking amps. In the video the battery passes a voltage test, carbon pile load test ,hydrometer test but fails the conductance test. Your issue could be nothing more than a loose battery terminal. I would have the battery properly tested first.
 

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Thanks to ALL!!! I figured as much with it being over 4 years old. Oddly though, my computerized battery charger claims that it's at 100% and voltage at 13.1V. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools to check voltage at cranking but no matter, a new battery is cheap insurance!

Great forum!
 

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If you do chose to go with a Yuasa replacement battery be careful where you buy it to get warranty support. On the Yuasa websites FAQ section it states “Yuasa Battery, Inc. does not handle warranty issues directly. All inquiries should be directed to the dealer where the battery was purchased. The dealer’s distributor sets the warranty period and handles all warranty claims. The warranty time frame and terms are not specified by Yuasa”.

If you look at the one sold by Amazon in its 1 star ratings one customer claims this.
After two months the battery left me stranded. Had it tested...battery was not dead...it was bad. Yuasa says contact Amazon. Amazon gives me no option for a warranty refund or a warranty replacement. Bought a new battery locally.
My guess is after the 30 day Amazon return option is up your screwed on the warranty. You will probably get the same support or less off EBay.
https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM7212A-Lead_Acid_Battery/dp/B000WK0ZA8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ytz12s+motorcycle+battery&qid=1580921590&sr=8-4
 

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$.02 more

Bought my new yuasa awhile back (online parts store), thought it went bad couple weeks later but additional charging (3 amp- Napa automatic) proved me wrong. Been good since then.:)
 

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My guess is after the 30 day Amazon return option is up your screwed on the warranty. You will probably get the same support or less off EBay.
https://www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM7212A-Lead_Acid_Battery/dp/B000WK0ZA8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ytz12s+motorcycle+battery&qid=1580921590&sr=8-4
I am pretty sure that Amazon disallows the return of batteries. Amazon may offer a refund, "may" being the operative word. I think it has something to do with the return of hazardous materials. The only point is to be aware of the options if an issue arises.
 

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Thanks to ALL!!! I figured as much with it being over 4 years old. Oddly though, my computerized battery charger claims that it's at 100% and voltage at 13.1V. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools to check voltage at cranking but no matter, a new battery is cheap insurance!

Great forum!
Regarding that - I'm not sure what kind of charger you use, but you should know that the battery in the CTX is an AGM-type battery. Those can be charged with conventional battery chargers but they won't charge as well. The charging curve of AGM batteries needs to be adjusted (a higher voltage I believe). Just a quick heads up to check if your charger has an AGM mode or if you activated it...

Best wishes, sounds like all issues should be solved with a new battery. I'm dreading the day my CTX is gonna leave me stranded because of a battery issue :/
 

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Thanks to ALL!!! I figured as much with it being over 4 years old. Oddly though, my computerized battery charger claims that it's at 100% and voltage at 13.1V. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools to check voltage at cranking but no matter, a new battery is cheap insurance!

Great forum!
As others pointed out. It a'int the voltage that's the problem. Batteries can show great voltage on a variety of meters. Unless you put it under a 'load test' type meter that measures the amperage at rest vs under load, the truth won't come out.

But at almost 5 years old, the battery is likely due and cheap insurance towards minimizing future problems. Next most likely issue would be the starter pulling too many amps due to wear or resistance. But these starters seem pretty robust and problem free. So, 98% chance you have a failing battery.

Speaking of, although my '15 was bought new last year I should also be looking into that cheap insurance for the forthcoming riding season!
 

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AS stated its the amps that it takes to start that is needed, and as a battery ages the ability to supply enough amps goes down.
A battery in this state can measure good when charged and even show fully charged, yet it cant supply enough amps to turn the engine.
It takes a lot of power, amps, to turn that engine over.
If you could measure the voltage as you push the starter button you would see it drop a lot.
A good rule is if it drops under 11 volts when starting the battery is shot.

And if you can get 3 years out of a battery, that's about it.
Some will say they have gotten 5-10 years out of a battery, but at what cost.
I want to be sure that when I hit that starter button that it will start!!!

Here the winters are very cold.
I've had batteries not start my car when cold.
So if my battery is 6-7 years old and the winter is coming I'll replace it JUST so I know it will start after sitting for hours outside!
 

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Thats a pretty common problem with an older battery. And exactly what happened to me except my bike restarted after sitting for 15 mins. I put a tender on it and got some extra time with it but when the battery failed again, it failed hard. The bike would die once the jumpers were off. The tender showed"charged" when I left the house, but clearly the battery was shot internally. It was so bad that when I turned the switch on, the battery voltage dropped to zero.

The voltage you read was the surface voltage that running the bike provided. The charger sensed that and figured it was fully charged and went into float mode. Voltage is no indication of a batteries available current. Todays tenders are using an algorithim based on voltage, they have no ability to load test. It's best not to put a tender on the bike as soon as you get home. Let the surface charge drop for a few hours.
BTW a bad/weak battery can affect the performance of the bike. IMHO, when it dies once, replace it soon.
 

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The battery has absolutely no effect on the performance of the motorcycle.
As soon as the engine starts and reaches idle speed, the alternator takes over the entire power supply for the motorcycle. The current in the battery changes direction and the battery is being charged by the alternator.
A bad or weak battery wouldn't start the engine so there is no reason to discuss the engine performance.
So much wrong with your response.

First, the battery doesn't effect performance per se, but a bad battery does effect operation. Today, next to no bikes use alternator's, but use regulators and rectifiers, alternators where more common on much older bikes.

Next, the bike uses the power directly from the battery only, the coil, regulator and rectifier charge the battery. Don't believe me, disconnect your battery when running and see what happens. It was also mentioned that while jumped it would run, but as soon as disconnected it would die (yes a dead battery WILL do that) for more assurance. For the same reason, an easy way to test the operation of your charging system is to simply put a volt meter to the battery while off, running and while revving.

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A heads up for everybody, a battery is a gambling wearable part, it may run now, run six years from now or die in the next 10 minutes, you never know, it's maintenance and use makes no difference. Want my opinion, spending $110 for a battery with the reasoning of spending $35 a year is nuts, a high cost battery is NOT more reliable, it is just more expensive! By your thinking of spending $35 a year, just do that and get one for that price, you WILL have better odds that way...

And a battery can surprise you, a three mile ride can charge the he!! out of a battery. Batteries are like people, they need exercise short, long, easy and hard, it just depends on condition. But, if you are weak, a quick workout won't necessarily help you much. And sometimes a little bit of energy will bring you back to life!
 

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The battery is an integral part of the electric system. It is a storage device like a capacitor. In that function it acts like a filter for the regulator and rectifier. The charging system of the bike won't provide "extra" current to float the battery until the bike is running 3000rpm or higher. That said, if the battery is is going weak, the charging system will not properly float ( it's not really charging) the battery. A bad battery will load down the charging system and WILL affect the operation of the bike due to the loading effect and transient voltages. BTW, this system is not for lithium batteries. Stay with lead acid AGM batteries.
 
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