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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone, so this is actually my first post. I have a 2014 DCT. I just put some OEM saddlebags on it and am considering a few other add-ons like speakers and 12V socket. So I've noticed on the highway when I'm cruising at 65mph+ the RPMs are almost red-lining and and 6 & 7 on the tachometer. It shouldn't be struggling at that kind of normal speed - not that it sounds like it's struggling but you know what I mean? Also I've noticed a couple of times when merging onto the highway sometimes the gears take a while to go from 4 to 5 to 6. Like it'll stay stuck on 4 until I slow down and rev up again. Has anyone else had this issue? I bought the bike almost two years ago with 300+ miles on it, it's got maybe about 3000 now. Just took it in for an oil change for the season so I've been riding it well. Does the timing need to be adjusted?
 

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Hopefully they put the right oil in it. Should not be reving that high. Clutches slipping?
 

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Hopefully they put the right oil in it. Should not be reving that high. Clutches slipping?
I think I would ask what oil was used, and did they change the "DCT" oil filter, and was the filter "OEM ". As far as I know there is no other filter besides the OEM p/n 15412-mgs-d21. There are many opinions on this forum about which or what type/grade oil, but the wrong oil can cause damage to the machine. If you get a funny answer you may need to start over, find someone you can trust before things get bad. I say this because I've had the oil light come on our brand new 2016 ctx700n, the oil was thin as water, I changed it myself, no problems afterward.












 

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Sounds like the clutch is slipping. You can use gearing commander to see what RPM you should be theoretically running. See the “Speed in Mph at RPM in Gear in selected setup” chart. If the link doesn’t fill in your bike enter 290-Honda / CTX / 700 ND “14-15” then click “Load Gearing”.
Gearing Commander ⚙
 

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Is this a used bike, or your own. It is possible that the sprockets were changed which will give high gearing rations. Other changes that may not be overly notable are tire size, bad oil, bad gas, bad valve job, actually any changes to the bike out of recommended specs. Have you tried driving it in sport and manual modes?
 

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Discussion Starter #6



I think I would ask what oil was used, and did they change the "DCT" oil filter, and was the filter "OEM ". As far as I know there is no other filter besides the OEM p/n 15412-mgs-d21. There are many opinions on this forum about which or what type/grade oil, but the wrong oil can cause damage to the machine. If you get a funny answer you may need to start over, find someone you can trust before things get bad. I say this because I've had the oil light come on our brand new 2016 ctx700n, the oil was thin as water, I changed it myself, no problems afterward.












I think I'll call the dealer back and see what they say about it. I'm sure they'll want to charge me a lot more now that I may have to bring it back. I should start changing my own oil at this point - just need a garage!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like the clutch is slipping. You can use gearing commander to see what RPM you should be theoretically running. See the “Speed in Mph at RPM in Gear in selected setup” chart. If the link doesn’t fill in your bike enter 290-Honda / CTX / 700 ND “14-15” then click “Load Gearing”.
Gearing Commander ⚙
Cool website! I plugged it in and yeah, looks like I'm definitely off with the numbers. Something is not right.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is this a used bike, or your own. It is possible that the sprockets were changed which will give high gearing rations. Other changes that may not be overly notable are tire size, bad oil, bad gas, bad valve job, actually any changes to the bike out of recommended specs. Have you tried driving it in sport and manual modes?
It was a used bike when I got it less than two years ago, it was mildly used with only 300+ miles on it. I tried in sport mode and that more or less seemed normal but not manual yet. I should try that and see what happens and I'll post on what I find.
 

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Sorry that you are having problems. I hate to capitalize on your misfortune, but I would be interested in hearing what you discover if you don't mind posting it. I do have a question. Was it all of a sudden that this came on or had you observed it happen at any other time, even intermittently? Is it persistent now? I would run the DCT initialization sequence as a first step. Make certain you warm your bike up to operating temp before you run the procedure though. 50/50 shot of it failing if you don't...not irreversible but you definitely get that "oh crap" moment when you have two blinking bars across your display and can't put it in gear. It takes only a couple of minutes after you warm it up.

Last few questions:

Are you certain that you have not accidentally hit the "Manual" switch on the right handlebar? My wife switches covering the front brake on her CTX and hits it from time to time.

Did you add any lights to the bags you installed?

Have you replaced your battery recently or checked your battery and electrical system to make sure voltage is correct?

Every DCT bike, trike, and ATV that Honda makes is sensitive to voltage irregularities. It translates into shift problems frequently. We have not seen it on our CTX but had on the VFR and NC700X (loved that stinking NC...never should have sold it).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry that you are having problems. I hate to capitalize on your misfortune, but I would be interested in hearing what you discover if you don't mind posting it. I do have a question. Was it all of a sudden that this came on or had you observed it happen at any other time, even intermittently? Is it persistent now? I would run the DCT initialization sequence as a first step. Make certain you warm your bike up to operating temp before you run the procedure though. 50/50 shot of it failing if you don't...not irreversible but you definitely get that "oh crap" moment when you have two blinking bars across your display and can't put it in gear. It takes only a couple of minutes after you warm it up.

Last few questions:

Are you certain that you have not accidentally hit the "Manual" switch on the right handlebar? My wife switches covering the front brake on her CTX and hits it from time to time.

Did you add any lights to the bags you installed?

Have you replaced your battery recently or checked your battery and electrical system to make sure voltage is correct?

Every DCT bike, trike, and ATV that Honda makes is sensitive to voltage irregularities. It translates into shift problems frequently. We have not seen it on our CTX but had on the VFR and NC700X (loved that stinking NC...never should have sold it).
I guess it happened maybe once or twice last year before I put it in storage for the winter (NJ Rider). When I took the bike out I thought the battery tender was left on but apparently it wasn't so the battery was dead. Figures, I left it in a friend's garage and I don't know maybe it was knocked loose. I tried recharging the battery but the tender kept saying "bad battery" so I got a new one and put it in there but haven't checked the electrical system on the bike itself. What's the DCT initialization sequence? First time I've heard that. And yes, I'm pretty certain I haven't hit the AT/MT switch. No bags to the lights, stock OEM Honda bags (see pictures below) and the only other thing hooked up to it is an alarm system (from previous owner). I also have a shorty exhaust so not sure if that might have anything to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I'm dropping it off to the mechanic tomorrow and they're going to test it out. First thing the guy asked me was if I changed the sprockets (which I haven't). Although, the bike is now six years old and even though it only has 4000 miles on it maybe it's time for an actual tune up? I don't have the book on me at the moment, it's in storage, does anyone have this information?

At the same time I took the bike out for a spin and just got home and was able to try all three modes (Manual/Auto/Sport). In Manual it definitely clocked up on the RPMs quickly. in Auto it went through the normal gears and around 62 it started to hit the red line and off it went from there. In Sport I reached 63 mph and it red lined all the way in 5th gear to 8000 before it finally hit 6th gear and started coming back down. That doesn't seem normal either, it takes a while for it to switch to 6th gear in Sport and goes all the way to 8000 RPM? I'm including a few photos I took while riding just now.
86092
86093
86094
 

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Discussion Starter #15
And here's what she looks like just waiting for me to get on :)

I threw on the tail bag to the rear carrier since I had the opportunity.

86096
86097
86098
 

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This is for my VFR but it will be the same on the CTX.

DCT RESET
The engine has to be up to temperature.
Make sure the transmission is in N to start
Engine is off, ignition switch is off
While pressing D, switch the ignition on, wait until the yellow ‘engine' symbol goes out on the dash, then release D
Press in fast sequence: DDNDN
On the dash, the letters D and S should appear together
Start engine, allow it to idle
After a few seconds, the letters D and S should go out.
Stop the engine.
Restart the engine and press D to insure the transmission goes into gear.

Shift control motor may be another consideration?
 

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This does not make sense on another level too, because there is a fuel cutoff at 6200 RPM. There is no if, the engine "shuts down" from fuel starvation on and off, maintaining 6200 rpms. No idea how it goes to 8000rms.
 

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You are right EK. Good question as to why the rev limiter is not kicking in. I don't have a diagram. Interesting issue.
 

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This does not make sense on another level too, because there is a fuel cutoff at 6200 RPM. There is no if, the engine "shuts down" from fuel starvation on and off, maintaining 6200 rpms. No idea how it goes to 8000rms.
This does not make sense on another level too, because there is a fuel cutoff at 6200 RPM. There is no if, the engine "shuts down" from fuel starvation on and off, maintaining 6200 rpms. No idea how it goes to 8000rms.
Yeah you're right, it should cut out around the 6000's give or take a few hundred. 2000 rpm above the cut off. It shouldn't be able to get that far into the redline. The rev limiter should prevent it from getting there. There are several ways to overide the limiter, but I don't think he did it in this case. Dynojet power commander can reset the rev limiter, Rev limiter CDI box, but in this case maybe the rev limiter is bad or a sensor has gone out. I believe there are two sensors on the CTX.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This is for my VFR but it will be the same on the CTX.

DCT RESET
The engine has to be up to temperature.
Make sure the transmission is in N to start
Engine is off, ignition switch is off
While pressing D, switch the ignition on, wait until the yellow ‘engine' symbol goes out on the dash, then release D
Press in fast sequence: DDNDN
On the dash, the letters D and S should appear together
Start engine, allow it to idle
After a few seconds, the letters D and S should go out.
Stop the engine.
Restart the engine and press D to insure the transmission goes into gear.

Shift control motor may be another consideration?
Is this safe to try before I take to the dealer or take it there and have them do it?
 
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