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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all, I just installed Rox Risers, 2" - 1 1/8" that's what everybody else installing here. But during installation I noticed two things I wasn't happy about and I don't think anybody mentioned it yet. Unless they sent me wrong risers somehow. The box says 1 1/8"
On picture 1 and 2 you can see small gaps between lips holding the Rox body and handle bar body. The gap is about half millimeter. The diameter of the bracket and the handle bar seem to be match, but why the gap? Is it normal?




Second question, I couldn't pivot the risers toward me, to my liking, because of the hand brake cable was too short. Secondly, even if cable wasn't too short, when I pivot risers the way I wanted, I COULDN'T access the screws to tighten things up, they were blocked by riser's body...
Can anyone with experience of installing Rox, let me know how did they install it and whether they had same issues as well.
P.S.
I used 16 lbs on top bolts and 29 lbs on bottom bolts. Are thes correct numbers?
Thanks.
 

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Nick, I have similar gaps between the stack risers but they are minimal. As for the Rox Risers, mine are pretty tight with very little gap. You have to tighten the top, then the bottom, then the top a little more, then the bottom, etc...

As for the cables, I had to take mine out of the metal hooks and work them closer to the center. Mine are tight but, when turning the bars right and left, I still have enough play that will not hamper the function of the brake or the clutch. You may have to do the same with the cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nick, I have similar gaps between the stack risers but they are minimal. As for the Rox Risers, mine are pretty tight with very little gap. You have to tighten the top, then the bottom, then the top a little more, then the bottom, etc...

As for the cables, I had to take mine out of the metal hooks and work them closer to the center. Mine are tight but, when turning the bars right and left, I still have enough play that will not hamper the function of the brake or the clutch. You may have to do the same with the cables.
I tighten them with the equal gap in front and back. Applied 16 lbs in front and 29 lbs in rear bolts.
The cables are fine except for the brake line, because of that, I cant pivot risers backward, so they just elevated handle bar, but haven't moved it toward rider...
 

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I installed mine straight back. No rise, just a shift backwards. The cables still have slack and you can reach all the bolts. It allows me to sit straight instead of hunched forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I installed mine straight back. No rise, just a shift backwards. The cables still have slack and you can reach all the bolts. It allows me to sit straight instead of hunched forward.
How did you manege the brake line? It's OK with just raised handlebar, but not much moved back. Brake line is too short for it. All cables are OK, but not the brake line. So, I couldn't pivot the risers back enough :mad:
 

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There is suppose to be a gap with all clamps that style. The gap lets you know it is clamped (grabbing) when tight. If there was no gap, it wouldn't be tight and the pivot point can slip. Just make sure the gaps are even from left to right so what is clamped is level. Front to back evenness makes no difference, that part doesn't have to be perfect but even is preffered.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There is suppose to be a gap with all clamps that style. The gap lets you know it is clamped (grabbing) when tight. If there was no gap, it wouldn't be tight and the pivot point can slip. Just make sure the gaps are even from left to right so what is clamped is level. Front to back evenness makes no difference, that part doesn't have to be perfect but even is preffered.
Thanks Rebel. When I looked at this installation, It doesn't look like big gap, unless the angle of the photo is wrong.
Also, how do I free the brake line triple-tree clamp, so I can pivot risers back, right now they're straight up because of short brake line. I can't even see how it's attached hidden behind the cowl. It bugs me :mad:. Thanks.
 

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Get a flashlight, loosen the risers and push the bars up to get some cable slack. Then reach down in and pull the cables out from the hooks! That's what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Get a flashlight, loosen the risers and push the bars up to get some cable slack. Then reach down in and pull the cables out from the hooks! That's what I did.
I did that. The only thing I couldn't loosen up was the hydraulic brake line. Its clamp attached to a triple-tree that I can't even see behind the cowl. I'll try tomorrow again, roll the bike out in sunlight, maybe then I can figure out how to undo that clamp.
 

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Thanks Rebel. When I looked at this installation, It doesn't look like big gap, unless the angle of the photo is wrong.
Also, how do I free the brake line triple-tree clamp, so I can pivot risers back, right now they're straight up because of short brake line. I can't even see how it's attached hidden behind the cowl. It bugs me :mad:. Thanks.
Are you talking about this one on the handlebar? If so, just use a small common screw driver in between that split and it will unlock. To remove the ring all together, take a small screwdriver and unlock it from the bottom while sliding it out. Keep in mind it only slips out one direction.


Or if talking about this, you should be able to just squeeze it out of place like shown here:


Last resort, I think you might be talking about this one, you may need to remove some plastic to gain access:
#3 & #22 here:

connect to #13 in this diagram. You may need to remove some extra plastic to gain access.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Last resort, I think you might be talking about this one, you may need to remove some plastic to gain access:
#3 & #22 here:

connect to #13 in this diagram. You may need to remove some extra plastic to gain access.
That's it - part 3 and 22. I couldn't figure them out - I couldn't see them in dark garage with the flashlight. This clamp holds the brake hose so I couldn't pull the hose upward in order to pivot handlebar more toward me. And I hope I don't need to mess with part 4. Rebel, you're a walking wisdom! Thanks again.
P.S.
What always surprises me, everyone who installed Rox says it was 20 minutes job, some say they pivoted risers forward all the way, but nobody mentioned messing with parts 3 and 22! Does it mean my bike's brake hose is shorter than others? LOL. I'm not sure how to interpret it.
 

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Just wanted to chime in and relay my recent experience with the installation of these risers on my DCT. First off, I would recommend covering your tank with a large towel before you begin. The cable length will be fine with the additional 2 inches, but the front brake cable *will* be pretty tight. You can start by removing the electrical cable push clips from their mounting points. I just carefully snipped the plastic cable ties to release the cables on each side, then pried the push pins out of the holes with a screwdriver and discarded them. I suppose you could try to save the clips by prying first, repositioning them farther down the cables, and reusing, but I figured they would be too damaged to do this. Besides, I don't think they're really necessary. The handlebar repositioning will take up most of the slack. The slightly more difficult cable is the one for the brake. There's an enlarged rubber cylinder on the brake line that's popped into a metal clip. You have to carefully remove the rubber piece from that clip. I believe, if my memory is correct, that you pop it out by pushing it back. Once it's out, you will have enough play (just barely) to get the handlebar onto the risers. After that, it's pretty straight-forward adjusting height and pull-back of the bar-riser combination. Hope this might help someone.
 

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I just tried to install my Rox risers. Even with all of the cable ties loosened off I don’t have near enough cable for my ABS brake line and electrical lines. I have the faired (CTX700T) version. I am broken hearted. Best of luck to everyone.
 
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