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I have my rear suspension maxed out. Is there a coil aftermarket that can help me out? Give my fat ass more give.
 

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I have my rear suspension maxed out. Is there a coil aftermarket that can help me out? Give my fat ass more give.
You can get yourself a couple more inches of throw by doing the NC750x swap out that only costs about C-note. Check my write up linked in my signature for details. I'm a petite huge 255# bundle of joy and I'm quite pleased with the results.
:)
 

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Just thought I would throw this in for the guys who are not quite as portly. I did the suspension over this winter by putting the 4 machine washers in the suspension. Rode it about 4000 kilometers and was happy with it. Didn't bottom out any more on big bumps. I got to thinking if I could improve on that so with nothing better to do one rainy day, I pulled the suspension and removed 1 washer on the top and 1 on the bottom. I left the locking washers the same place they were,at about 6 thread down from the top. It is far better now. It rides much softer on the normal pitches on the pavement but still is solid enough to not bottom out. I weigh about 170 and my ride is nearly perfect.
 

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Pinky:


Your options are:


1. Modify the stock shock. See my signature for "Spaced rear shock". This is the cheapest, and does a reasonable job. I used a plastic spacer to preload the spring more, but others (like TIP) have used steel washers.
2. Use a NC shock as Bob suggests. I haven't done this, and I don't know of anyone who has done it on a non-trike.
3. Buy an after-market shock. I bought a Matris (see my signature again) and it works very well, but it cost a lot. Others have used Ohlins, etc.


Gonzo
 

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I decided to get rid of the OEM version and ordered a new one from Wilbers. The model is 641, rather expensive, but I have some old photo gear to sell and I try to get funds by selling it at eBay. I'll report more after I have got it. The price was 600 euroa, including delivery costs.
 

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Forget to mention that Wilbers makes 3 types for CTX700: without rebound adjust 300 euros, with rebound adjust 430 euros and with separate reservoir 620 euros, all including posting costs and individual settings made by Wilbers.
 

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Forget to mention that Wilbers makes 3 types for CTX700: without rebound adjust 300 euros, with rebound adjust 430 euros and with separate reservoir 620 euros, all including posting costs and individual settings made by Wilbers.
congratulations! wilbers is a great brand!
 

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congratulations! wilbers is a great brand!
Thanks. I have now a long waiting, it takes over a month to have it in my hands, because all orders are delivered straight from the manufacturer with individual settings. I wonder why eBay didn't give hits to USA. It is pity if Wilbers are not available in USA, because Wilbers is priced very close YSS and would be a good alternative. I don't know are they equal to Ohlins, but individial settings make a huge advantage.
 

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Thanks. I have now a long waiting, it takes over a month to have it in my hands, because all orders are delivered straight from the manufacturer with individual settings. I wonder why eBay didn't give hits to USA. It is pity if Wilbers are not available in USA, because Wilbers is priced very close YSS and would be a good alternative. I don't know are they equal to Ohlins, but individial settings make a huge advantage.
Where did you order it? www.wilbers-shop.de says that they will deliver it in two weeks.
 

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My Wilbers shock absorber is now posted from the factory. I contacted Wilbers to ask whether it is possible to have more stroke. If some one plans to order Wilbers, my device is now to ask for a FIXED LIFT instead of the basic model without length adjuster or the model with screw adjuster. The screw adjuster is compensated with less stroke! They wrote "...you have 13.5 mm more stroke in the raising. If the you had not chosen a fixed lift but a height adjustment, the lift would be limited.". Actually Wilbers recommends fixed lift for CTX700, obviously no matter the absorber model, making the length very similar to the NC700 absorber. The result depends on many things, but this is the case if you order Wilbers with individual settings.
 

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Bad news. I received the parcel and opened it only to see that the item they send me was wrong, not what I ordered.. Now it is returned and hopefully refunded soon. Another thing is that I can't recommend these shocks, not because their quality - it looks great, but because the damper body is soo big and long that to the our 300 mm eye-to-eye distance there is only around 30 mm stroke. To compensate this they have to use extremely strong springs. I can send a picture, if someone wants to see evidences. Every maker seems to have only a limited assortment of damper bodies and they build different shocks using different parts, rods and heads. For example Ohlins STX46 body is an example of different approach, giving a lot of stroke.

Edit, here is the picture

 

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So, after sending Wilbers back I ordered Ohlins made for NC. The price was 566 euros including delivery costs. I installed it on Thursday. The rise was around 40 mm, riders sag with factory settings 50 mm. Needed to add a block to the kickstand to keep it working. Good news, now the center stand (Hepco et Becker) can be done by toes and thanks for the extra 40mm, the standing stability is much better in traffic lights and jams with more straightened legs! Before I was sitting my heels at ground like on WC. But I am still going on and ordered from a German dealer 20mm lowering links (20 euros, stainless steel). After them installed the rise should be 20 mm and I can add coil compression to achieve 25 % rider sag, meaning a bit below 40mm sag. I hope I can say that it is over after that all done.

Another project is a muffler swap. I already have a new one, LeoVince made for NC and homologated in EU . The joint tube needed some modifications, done, also bracket modifications, but I still hesitate to install it because of the factory warranty, which ends March 2021.
 

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howdy maurimy,
thanks for your contributions to the forum.
here in the states, as we call it, i would install the muffler you have and if necessary when you take the motorcycle in for warranty work, simply re-install the original. here, no-one would notice the different muffler to make note of it when routine service is done in the shop. depending on what you bought and whether you like the look or sound or care that it might be a little lighter in weight, you should at least give it a try.
by the way, though there are a few attention getting differences in how you say things, you are communicating well in english. i'm sure you already know that. i can read a bit of several languages but could not communicate in anything other than english. well done.
ken
 

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howdy maurimy,
thanks for your contributions to the forum.
here in the states, as we call it, i would install the muffler you have and if necessary when you take the motorcycle in for warranty work, simply re-install the original. here, no-one would notice the different muffler to make note of it when routine service is done in the shop. depending on what you bought and whether you like the look or sound or care that it might be a little lighter in weight, you should at least give it a try.
by the way, though there are a few attention getting differences in how you say things, you are communicating well in english. i'm sure you already know that. i can read a bit of several languages but could not communicate in anything other than english. well done.
ken
Many thanks Ken. For some reason I already know that my English is broken :). Only way I could learn practical English instead of putting words in a row would be to move to UK or USA. Younger people do it today and speak two or three languages, someones even more. In my case I have to be content of if people roughly understand my line of thought. On another forum I took part in a test trying to define where everyone is from, based on the used dictionary and grammatics, and I made the test twice trying to alter words and sentences. Both tests gave me Oxford, lol. Have to admit that someones speaking fluent English got Indian English regardless of the place where they were born.

I do admit all you said about my muffler project. Switching between OEM and aftermarket silencers takes only ten minutes. In my opinion the OEM one looks too heavily built. I don't look after any kind of power tuning, simply I don't like how the OEM looks, but at the end it is a matter of taste and everyone has own opinions.
 

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Please give us an update on your project. We really appreciate your posts. Look forward to hearing how your project worked out. Thanks
 

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JWW19, that is the plan. I am waiting for those links and after I have them I try to take photos and write more.
 

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So, after sending Wilbers back I ordered Ohlins made for NC. The price was 566 euros including delivery costs. I installed it on Thursday. The rise was around 40 mm, riders sag with factory settings 50 mm. Needed to add a block to the kickstand to keep it working. Good news, now the center stand (Hepco et Becker) can be done by toes and thanks for the extra 40mm, the standing stability is much better in traffic lights and jams with more straightened legs! Before I was sitting my heels at ground like on WC. But I am still going on and ordered from a German dealer 20mm lowering links (20 euros, stainless steel). After them installed the rise should be 20 mm and I can add coil compression to achieve 25 % rider sag, meaning a bit below 40mm sag. I hope I can say that it is over after that all done.

Another project is a muffler swap. I already have a new one, LeoVince made for NC and homologated in EU . The joint tube needed some modifications, done, also bracket modifications, but I still hesitate to install it because of the factory warranty, which ends March 2021.
Hi Maurimy, I would very much like to do the shock replacement exactly as you have it above. I would like to have some extra height for the bike and also the ease of using the center stand. I can NOT get it on the center stand unless 2 people help me. So..... can you give some sort of model number you got of the Ohlin. I sure hopw the part numbers are universal worldwide. Thanks for your help, Chuck
 
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