CTX 700 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just did the oil change on my bike, and it went as expected, thanks to everything I learned from all of you on this site. Thanks!


I put the oil drain plug back on, but am unable to use a torque wrench to get it to the required value since the handle is too long. Any handy tips? Or maybe just crank it down, see if it's tight, and hope for the best? I'm a little nervous about this one step because on my Majesty I set the torque wrench to the wrong value, cranked the drain plug down and stripped the threads. Which necessitated trailering it to the shop and a big bill for them to fix it. So I'm trying to avoid that if possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
I use a 3/8 drive ratchet style clicker torque wrench that’s 15 inches long. I put it up on the center stand and point the handle of the torque wrench towards the front of the bike and ratchet it up to tighten it to spec. I even torque the filter to Honda's specs and haven’t had any problems getting it off. If you don’t have a center stand you could run the front wheel up on a car ramp or something to give you the clearance you need underneath.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
915 Posts
22 ft lb for the drain plug and 19 ft lb for the filter. I don't worry too much about the filter. Just tighten by hand until it is snug, then give it another 3/4 of a turn. If you get it too tight it is near impossible to get off without deforming the old filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I use a 3/8 drive ratchet style clicker torque wrench that’s 15 inches long. I put it up on the center stand and point the handle of the torque wrench towards the front of the bike and ratchet it up to tighten it to spec. I even torque the filter to Honda's specs and haven’t had any problems getting it off. If you don’t have a center stand you could run the front wheel up on a car ramp or something to give you the clearance you need underneath.

That's the style wrench I have. I have neither a center stand nor a ramp to give me more clearance underneath. Might have to go buy something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
The center stand only lifts the rear tire about 2 inches so if you can get someone to run the rear tire over something 2 inches high and hold the bike there while you wrench it I think that would work. I think I could do it without the stand if I had someone to just hold the bike upright or tilt it over to the side slightly.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I was passing Harbor Freight this afternoon and bought this lifter:


https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/99000-99999/99701.pdf


The support bracket doesn't seem to have enough room to hold the bolt head on the swing arm on the left side (see photo), and on the right side the threads of the bolt would be impacted by the support bracket. Do I need something to connect the brackets to the bike?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
You need a set of L Type Adapters for Street Bike Rear Lift Stand. I contacted the manufacturer and they sent me a set for free. They were listed as item #12 on the older parts list for the harbor Freight stand you purchased. Another option might be contacting Bikemaster for their Universal Aluminum Motorcycle Stand Paddle Arms.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
491 Posts
The support brackets for the lift are designed for spools. The only way to put spools on the bike without the expense of having someone weld them to your swing arm are the T-REX bolt on spools.
https://www.t-rex-racing.com/Honda-CTX700-NC700X-NC750X-Spool-Adapters-p/n44-12sa.htm
If you look the lift up on the Harbor Freight website, click on the pictures and the last two show your lift with the L support brackets.
https://www.harborfreight.com/low-profile-rear-motorcycle-spool-stand-99701.html

  • Many complaints in the reviews on not getting the L brackets and one 2 star review by a CTX owner said the design of the lift would not clear the muffler.
not very functional
For my bike (CTX700N) the outer towers wouldnt clear the stock muffler to allow it to even begin to lift the bike, so it was returned rather promptly, it seems to be a good design but if you have anything covering the outer side of you rear axle, it will interfere with this stand.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
531 Posts
Just did the oil change on my bike, and it went as expected, thanks to everything I learned from all of you on this site. Thanks!


I put the oil drain plug back on, but am unable to use a torque wrench to get it to the required value since the handle is too long. Any handy tips? Or maybe just crank it down, see if it's tight, and hope for the best? I'm a little nervous about this one step because on my Majesty I set the torque wrench to the wrong value, cranked the drain plug down and stripped the threads. Which necessitated trailering it to the shop and a big bill for them to fix it. So I'm trying to avoid that if possible.
Stripped drain plug threads in oil pan:eek: (my first car; used, & first oil change:crying:)...I learned then that a drain plug is Not a fastener which is holding separate parts together>:)...rather, with a proper washer, it's function is simply to Seal the hole & not vibrate loose...LOL!:D
(All due respect for those who often use torque wrenches ;))
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
The drain plug bolt also has an aluminum crush washer, very important to replace that too. I've found that a hand tightening is sufficient to seat the bolt to it's crush washer. As 350Four noted, it's a seal not a fastener. I use the Honda oil filter and bought the Honda tool for removal. You can use an aftermarket filter with a nut head already built in instead. I hand tighten the filter and give an extra 3/4 turn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
The drain plug bolt also has an aluminum crush washer, very important to replace that too. I've found that a hand tightening is sufficient to seat the bolt to it's crush washer. As 350Four noted, it's a seal not a fastener. I use the Honda oil filter and bought the Honda tool for removal. You can use an aftermarket filter with a nut head already built in instead. I hand tighten the filter and give an extra 3/4 turn.
Ditto, except I went one step further and bought K&N filters KN-204 on ebay. It has a nut at the end for removal with a standard wrench. I also have had luck with those cup wrenches that fit over the ruffled end of the filter to break them loose. You just have to be sure to get the cup wrench on tight, even a slight tap with a mallet is helpful.
Oops, just reread and saw you mentioned the filter with the nut head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Right, I'm going with all OEM replacement parts & oil. I looked at the crush washer I removed, and it sure looks like the brand new one I just bought at the dealer, but I figure for $1.20, why tempt fate?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,406 Posts
Common, seriously there are people who torque the oil drain bolt? Common sense people. No offense. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Common, seriously there are people who torque the oil drain bolt? Common sense people. No offense. :D

I can't help it. I attend RTFM Anonymous meetings, and the 12-step program just isn't working for me. :(



ME (at meeting): Hi everyone, my name is Dave, and I read the manual.
Everyone: Hi, Dave.
ME: I last read a repair manual... this morning. SOB!
Everyone: <sighs>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
GoodIdeaDave: you are right to replace the crush washer. It is aluminum and aluminum can be subject to unseen stress fractures when torqued. Used more than once or twice and the washer may form a small crack. Draining the oil again for a $1.20 part.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Those washers can be bought by the box, 4 or 6 in a box at Cycle gear for $3 or so. Look around, its a 12mm washer if memory serves me.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top