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I'm coming up on the first oil change I will perform on my CTX700N manual.

Without starting an oil debate, I'm curious about whether this kind of motor oil is suitable. It's a savings of about $12 per change. I live in CA, ride the bike about 50 miles per week, almost exclusively around town. I'm easy on the clutch, brakes, and gas.

Would you use it?

86985
 

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The round symbol on the back DID NOT indicate “energy conserving”, it’s JASO MA, and it’s been used in motorcycles for years. I’m in TX and temps are usually 100+ so I use 5-40 or 10-40. I don’t know that “diesel” changes anything.
Oil for bikes is a VERY personal subject, I would not recommend anything you don’t believe meets the Mfgr. recommended brand/weight. However, synthetic oils are a really broad use material. Just avoid the “Energy conserving” marking.
 

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If you are going to a synthetic, go to full synthetic. The bike will seem to work better and shift smoother. At least that is what those who have gone to full synthetic say. Anyways it requires less oil changes.
 

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If you are going to a synthetic, go to full synthetic. The bike will seem to work better and shift smoother. At least that is what those who have gone to full synthetic say. Anyways it requires less oil changes.
What are the associated mileage and time frames recommended on full synthetic?
 

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What are the associated mileage and time frames recommended on full synthetic?
Synthetic is good for 10K and the mileage an extra 5 or 6. The mileage may be anecdotal, but there is a definite smoothness in operation.
Motorcycles that use mineral-based oil should be changed at least every 2,000 miles, or at least twice a year. Semi-synthetic oil should be changed every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. Fully synthetic oil is best changed every 7,000 to 10,000 miles, according to Rips & Rides. How Often You Should Change Your Motorcycle Oil. How Often Should You Change Motorcycle Oil? | RIPS & RIDES
 

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I have been using T6 in my bike and ATV for years with no problems I have 81000 klm on the bike and it runs better than new. It is rated for the wet clutches and mine shifts very smooth. If it will hold up in a hard working deisel engine that is working hard at maximum power all day that has proven to me that it is a great oil.
 

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I have used synthetics in every engine in every vehicle and toy I have had since the early 90's. What sold me on synthetics was a test we did in minus 40 weather. A debate started and the result was we put a jug of synthetic and a jug of dino oil out in the snow over night. In the morning we took the caps off and turned the jugs upside fown. The synthetic poured out easily but the dino was like thick honey. Think about that every time you cold start an engine. Synthetic will be in the top end of the engine away before the dino oil. Every vehicle I have bought has never been back to the dealer for their first service and I have drained the socalled breakin oil and switched to the proper grade of synthetics and never had a problem. The only one that did not need it was my 2002 Mini Cooper which came with synthetic in it. High mileage trucks used to be in the shop for oil changes regularly but when synthetics were used the oil change schedules were extended to a lot more miles thus saving down times and money. Samples are usually sent out to check the oil quality of the oil drained out and they found with synthetics the engines would last much longer with less maintenance.
 

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I have been using T6 in my bike and ATV for years with no problems I have 81000 klm on the bike and it runs better than new. It is rated for the wet clutches and mine shifts very smooth. If it will hold up in a hard working deisel engine that is working hard at maximum power all day that has proven to me that it is a great oil.
Would that be the Shell Rotella T6 synthetic DieselEngine Oil? If I were to switch from "dino" oil to T6 or some other synthetic, is there any special process to purge the old oil as part of the transition? Will any residual oil affect the synthetic oil?
 

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A couple of things to consider if you decide to go with Diesel engine oil. Honda recommends API classification of SG or higher and the T6 is CK-4. Read “Emissions and the Catalytic Converter” and “Additive Levels” On the attached site. I am not advocating for or against just offering up what appears to be unbiased literature that claims there are some possible negatives you should be aware of in using diesel oil in gasoline engines with catalytic converters. You can also find plenty of motorcycle forums that contradict this information.
Comparing Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oils
 

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Just drain it and dump in the synthetics. No problems. I have been hearing some people trying to find falt with synthetics for years. Lots of people using t6 as their oil in gasoline engines rather than have a batch of different oils for their tractors trucks and cars. Many used to say you could not break in an engine with synthetic. Most ATV's , Mercedes, BMW, Ferrari come from the factory with synthetics. You can buy full synthetics or semi synthetics so a little dino oil isn't going to hurt your engine. Don't know why some are always against anything different when most have never tried it.
 

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hi, i have used motul and other oils and with them the clutch is a bit noisy and gear change clunky. when i went back to standard honda oil everything worked perfectly. adrian
 

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If you are getting oil in your cateletic converter you have a lot bigger problem than oil. Crankcase oil is not going anywhere near the Cat unless your rings are done.
 
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