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Discussion Starter #1
My CTX is back from the winter store and first parts installed. New items:

- Madstad windscreen
- left hand brake master cylinder
- new wiring connecting the left brake level to the brake light, in parallel with the rh brake
- wiring connecting the parking brake warning light


The parking brake level in a new position behind wind screen.

The brake line is not yet installed and waiting for riding to the club work shop where I can bleed brake lines.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8GWNrw6vo614RPVr5

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ChoXeQz3mTK2J6Zo9
 

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maurimy,

I hope you can do a write up with more pics and part sources when you are all done. I suspect the rear brake is much more controllable and useful with this mod. I like the idea of not having to modify the existing pedal as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
maurimy,

I hope you can do a write up with more pics and part sources when you are all done. I suspect the rear brake is much more controllable and useful with this mod. I like the idea of not having to modify the existing pedal as well.
. I will do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
...The foot brake still leaves active, so I can use also it.
How did you connect foot and hand brake master cylinders to ABS module?

This is my solution for last 5 years but with foot brake master cylinder disconnected.
I don't need to modify existing brake systems, thanks to Tactical Mind's Dual fitting rear brake. I dropped out their master cylinder and used OEM Honda parts (photo in my previous message). All other parts are from TM. It is an ingenious innovation.

https://www.tacticalmindz.com/products/dual-fitting-rear-hand-brake-kit-1
 

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. I will do it.
I look forward to it. I think a lot of DCT folks would like to do this if it were made as easy as ordering a kit, or even specific part(s), bolting on and bleeding.

I don't see how to order sans the master on the site. So you are just using the line and fittings from them? What length line(s) did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
. I will do it.
I look forward to it. I think a lot of DCT folks would like to do this if it were made as easy as ordering a kit, or even specific part(s), bolting on and bleeding.

I don't see how to order sans the master on the site. So you are just using the line and fittings from them? What length line(s) did you get?
I bought the left hand master cylinder of Honda Silver Wing 400 from Ebay. They are cheap and always listed. The line length is 56". It should fit, but I know it surely after I have removed the panel covering the foot brake master cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
...The foot brake still leaves active, so I can use also it.
How did you connect foot and hand brake master cylinders to ABS module?

This is my solution for last 5 years but with foot brake master cylinder disconnected.
Ares, I ask for your help. I am interested in how you routed the brake line from the master cylinder to the bike body and where are the fixing points. Can you sent pictures? You have had it five years and it sounds like a good road test.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds really cool especially if the foot pedal still works-do you have abs?
Yes, it should not be a problem, because ABS don't see the diference between hand and foot brakes in Tactical Mind's dual fitting system.
 

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... Can you sent pictures? ...
First please note that my motorcycle is CTX700ND. Secondly, I connected the brake line directly to the ABS module in place of the line from the foot brake master cylinder.
First time I made this modification in November 2012 in my NC700XD. I saw in local motorcycle shops what brake modifications they did for stunt motorcycles. I will say honestly that this did not convince me as a good solution in my case. Instead of the hose joint from the reservoir in the foot brake master cylinder use a custom junction valve adapter (tear drop style) ("Dual Fitting"), fixed only with M4x12 screw and o-ring. It doesn't look to me like a tight connection.
This is a sufficient connection for the gravitational pressure from the reservoir but not very good for the relative high pressure from the hand brake master cylinder. I am not sure that I would trust this solution for longer use. But my opinion has lost its relevance because I have almost finished riding a motorcycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Ares many thanks. I do understand your concerns and actually this is also my opinion, the dual fitting doesn't correspond original coupling. It is however secured by Loctite designed to metal cylinder bonds. It is difficult to estimate how hard this bond is, but today car makers use similar methods in many places. But at the end I could also connect the new line with the foot master cylinder output line, no problem.
 

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I sure wish I knew what you guys are talking about :)

It seems to me that in order for both the foot pedal and hand grip to remain functional that some kind of device is needed.

The site you pointed to looks like they provide some kind of proportioning valve looking gizmo.

I just can't visualize how this works. I am also not clear on the stated concern. Is it the way the lines are connected?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I sure wish I knew what you guys are talking about /forum/images/CTX700Forum_2015/smilies/tango_face_smile.png

It seems to me that in order for both the foot pedal and hand grip to remain functional that some kind of device is needed.

The site you pointed to looks like they provide some kind of proportioning valve looking gizmo.

I just can't visualize how this works. I am also not clear on the stated concern. Is it the way the lines are connected?
It is not a valve, it is a simple connector joining the line from hand brake to the foot master cylinder. You need to look closer how the foot brake works to understand this gimmick.

The answer why I don't want to connect the hand brake line straight to ABS unit is that I want to leave it possible to switch easily back the original setup if I decide to sell my CTX. I have to ways to do it, 1) using the dual action connector or 2) joining together the new line with the foot brake output line. Either way I choose, the work is around the same and I can easily go back to the original function. In case 2 the foot brake is not functioning.
 

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... and I can easily go back to the original function. In case 2 the foot brake is not functioning.

Returning to the original is not a problem for me. I did that already ones. I haven't removed the main cylinder and pedal. I didn't like using the foot brake from the very beginning. It was very ineffective for me in such a position with feet forward. Now I have a lot more confidence in maneuvering with the hand rear brake (almost 8 years).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
... and I can easily go back to the original function. In case 2 the foot brake is not functioning.

Returning to the original is not a problem for me. I did that already ones. I haven't removed the main cylinder and pedal. I didn't like using the foot brake from the very beginning. It was very ineffective for me in such a position with feet forward. Now I have a lot more confidence in maneuvering with the hand rear brake (almost 8 years).
All right, I was not aware of that it is easy to do it also from the ABS unit. Thanks for advices. I think that I have now what I need. Cheers
 

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I did this mod last winter. Like others I purchased a used master cylinder with handle on eBay. I bought a junction valve for the Honda Grom from thestuntfactory.com ($59.00), Had a custom brake line fabricated at 42" in length ($35.00). The assembly was easy. I ran the Brake line down the front and after removing the resevoir container and the existing top side junction valve, the new junction valve just slipped in and it works. The hardest part for me waas bleeding the system to get the air out.

All told my cost was less than $100 and no impact to the ABS.
 

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I did this mod last winter. Like others I purchased a used master cylinder with handle on eBay. I bought a junction valve for the Honda Grom from thestuntfactory.com ($59.00), Had a custom brake line fabricated at 42" in length ($35.00). The assembly was easy. I ran the Brake line down the front and after removing the resevoir container and the existing top side junction valve, the new junction valve just slipped in and it works. The hardest part for me waas bleeding the system to get the air out.

All told my cost was less than $100 and no impact to the ABS.
Got any pics? Did you retain the footbrake master and pedal. Removing the lower reservoir? So all the fluid is stored up top?
 
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