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. . . the dreaded oil thread, but has anyone tried a synthetic oil in their DCT, and if so, did it cause the clutch(es) to slip?
 

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I changed over to Honda full synthetic at around 1100 miles (changed at the dealer). No clutch slippage - everything is operating as it should!
 

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David - Good to know. Thanks.
 

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If you put synthetic oil in a CTX, it will seep out past all the gaskets and puddle up on the floor. Just kidding, synthetic works just like other oils, better, who knows? I use it, but I really don't think it is better. Wallacem
 

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Synthetic or regular - if it meets grade and spec, it meets grade and spec and will work fine. Always. If you are looking at a synthetic that has the appropriate weight, grade and spec - it will be fine.

Anyone who says otherwise needs a remedial chemistry class - followed by a dose of Logic 101.
 
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Synthetic or regular - if it meets grade and spec, it meets grade and spec and will work fine. Always. If you are looking at a synthetic that has the appropriate weight, grade and spec - it will be fine.

Anyone who says otherwise needs a remedial chemistry class - followed by a dose of Logic 101.
+1.
 

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I just went to synthetic oil last week and it runs just fine. I don't really "feel' a difference but it seems everyone says it synth lasts a bit longer between the long oil chances.
 

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I use Mobile 1 15W-50 Full Synthetic in all my modern bikes. It is automobile oil and not designed specifically for motorcycles. I have been using it since it came on the market years ago. I have well over 200k miles on different bikes using this oil. No clutch slippage.
I am not suggesting everyone else use this but just offering what I prefer to use. It exceeds the specs requirement for our bikes other than friction modifiers. I don't care to pay for the friction modifiers and I really like this oil.
 

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Just make sure the Oil does Not say "Energy Conserving" in the OIL seal On the back of the bottle.

If you use a oil that says "ENERGY CONSERVING" in the seal, in your bike,
The Clutch WILL SLIP!!~!

"Energy Conserving" adds moly lube to there oil.

There should be Nothing in that lower section of the seal on the back of the bottle.

I was able to help fix someones bike (through a forum) that had used the energy conserving oil in there bike and had a slipping clutch,

But it took a couple of oil changes, and a 1/2 quart of ATF in the engine oil and ride 400 miles, to clean the clutch plates, then drained the ATF oil mixture, and back to Oil, not containing the moly lube/Energy Conserving.
 

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There is really only ONE oil to use - pure Sperm Whale Oil:

 

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I know this could be sensitive but I think it's good info.
I have the ND and I used the MC oil by Mobile one, for my first oil change. Ran it for 7500 miles and tranny shifted smooth and reasonably quiet. I used the little bit, left over for the Loobman chain oiler. This oil held up very well, on the rollers.
I decided to go with T6 next change, which I used with my Vstrom, for 7 years. It seemed OK but shifting got a little clunky after about 3000 miles and I would change it.
I put the T6 in the Loobman and the rollers got very shiny very quickly. The transmission seems very noisy, compared to the Mobile One.
I'll be changing to the Mobile One shortly because the T6 doesn't seem to have the durability for the DCT. I know it didn't hold up well at all for a chain oil. I put some 5/30 oil in, for the chain, and it stays much better than the T6.
This was a surprise for me, about the T6 and for what it's worth, I wanted to pass it on.
 
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I changed to T6 at 600 miles. Runs good and clutch is fine. I have used it in my ATV for over 2000 miles and the engine seems to run cooler and quieter. Everything I have runs on synthetic. Just make sure it is not Energy Conserving and has the proper numbers for the wet clutch. Most motorcycle and ATV specified oil is quite expensive but Rotella T6 can be bought at Wallmart or TSC on sale at great prices. It is commonly used in heavy diesel applications were heat build up can be extreme and it stands up to the point that they can extend the oil drops considerably. Had a BMW that specified synthetics and their normal oil change was 2 years or 16000 miles.
 

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Clutch performance is not related to choice in engine oil, far as I know the clutch operates on its own fluid reservoir. Sounds like you should take it to your dealer to look at if it's doing what you say, 5300 miles on my DCT with no abnormal indications of any kind.
 
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Clutch performance is not related to choice in engine oil, far as I know the clutch operates on its own fluid reservoir. Sounds like you should take it to your dealer to look at if it's doing what you say, 5300 miles on my DCT with no abnormal indications of any kind.
Engine, trans and clutch oil is all shared in the same sump/case. It is a wet clutch with no seperate reservoir. The amount the clutch gets is based upon the oil pump to push oil through the small tubing to disperse it there.
 

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Rebell13 is correct. The DCT(clutch/trans) does have a separate oil filter but shares the same oil sump with the engine.
 
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