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Mine are left and right, it works fine this way.
(FYI I ordered direct from Opt-7, to avoid any chances of a third party having some fun at my expense.)
Lol I order through Amazon, the only reason, I pay about the same, and if I want to return, NO Questions. OPT7 has no contact phone but they do by email. I had an issue with the Ford Edge LED headlights and they 2 day air'ed my replacements. I was always a little sketchy about returning to them direct. Amazon is like a warm fuzzy blanket :)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I ordered direct through OPT7 too and got what I assume is the older model... It must have been one of their last since it was just a few days before yours was received.
 

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I ordered direct through OPT7 too and got what I assume is the older model... It must have been one of their last since it was just a few days before yours was received.
This is an interesting point. Of all the OPT7 headlights I've installed including my own recently, they have all been ordered direct from OPT7 and all had the metal bracket. It seems, at least lately, that the ones coming from Amazon appear to have been cheaper made models. Not sure what to make of that.
 

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This is an interesting point. Of all the OPT7 headlights I've installed including my own recently, they have all been ordered direct from OPT7 and all had the metal bracket. It seems, at least lately, that the ones coming from Amazon appear to have been cheaper made models. Not sure what to make of that.
I ordered mine through Amazon too, so there may be something to your statement.

But, OPT7 is listed as the "seller" so I doubt Amazon has much to do with how they are produced and is only playing the middle man.
 

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I ordered mine through Amazon too, so there may be something to your statement.

But, OPT7 is listed as the "seller" so I doubt Amazon has much to do with how they are produced and is only playing the middle man.

Might I suggest that OPT7 makes two kinds, the better one is the one they sell directly, the cheaper one is the one they supply 3rd party outlets, specifically Amazon. That way they don't compete against themselves and can still have some kind of margin.
 

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I just received my OPT7 from Amazon this week and there is no L or R stamped or sleeve with screws in it to allow flipping the unit over. The good thing is the new lights coming from Amazon appears to be oriented correctly. I'm still concerned with mine having the plastic base. I'm not worried about it not supporting the light. Rather, it's thicker than the metal bases and I hope this doesn't create an issue with fitment and installation.

I'm going to try the best of all scenarios in the posts above to install the light tomorrow morning. I'm going to try to put the new base in place and clip it in. Then, with the boot on the light, I'm going to dab a little WD-40 on the boot to slicken it up some and hopefully I can put the light through the base and twist it into place. It sounds like everybody has faced having to exert a lot of pressure to get everything together. I hope it goes smoothly. I've found I have plenty of room to reach the fitting and my hand in by reaching in from the front fender but I cannot see anything. We'll test how well my proprioception senses are. The first thing is to figure out how to get the darn connection off the light so I can remove it!
 

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I just received my OPT7 from Amazon this week and there is no L or R stamped or sleeve with screws in it to allow flipping the unit over. The good thing is the new lights coming from Amazon appears to be oriented correctly. I'm still concerned with mine having the plastic base. I'm not worried about it not supporting the light. Rather, it's thicker than the metal bases and I hope this doesn't create an issue with fitment and installation.

I'm going to try the best of all scenarios in the posts above to install the light tomorrow morning. I'm going to try to put the new base in place and clip it in. Then, with the boot on the light, I'm going to dab a little WD-40 on the boot to slicken it up some and hopefully I can put the light through the base and twist it into place. It sounds like everybody has faced having to exert a lot of pressure to get everything together. I hope it goes smoothly. I've found I have plenty of room to reach the fitting and my hand in by reaching in from the front fender but I cannot see anything. We'll test how well my proprioception senses are. The first thing is to figure out how to get the darn connection off the light so I can remove it!
Just remove the two front fairing inner covers instead to gain the necessary access. Its not that hard to do. 2 socket bolts and a trim clip on the side. The covers use tabs and loops to secure to the side of the fairing. Pull up on the covers from the bottom and work the sides loose. This will give you plenty of room to work and you will be able to see the light fixture.
 

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Just remove the two front fairing inner covers instead to gain the necessary access. Its not that hard to do. 2 socket bolts and a trim clip on the side. The covers use tabs and loops to secure to the side of the fairing. Pull up on the covers from the bottom and work the sides loose. This will give you plenty of room to work and you will be able to see the light fixture.
I have the fairing model, so thanks for the tip about removing the black plastic inner fairing piece. That made things much easier. It took me around an hour to do. I did a lot of trial and error. I believe I could do the next in under 30 minutes if I did it right now. If this light lasts like it's supposed to I'll likely never have to do it again unless I'm helping someone else.

I didn't have to flip the sleeve and unit as mine came without this adjustment screw and was correctly oriented so I was able to bypass that part. To me, there are two main things to simplify this process. The first is to install the base first and clip it in, and the second is on the boot the innermost part turns into a tube that goes around the light and seats into the base that's roughly 1" long. If you trim this by 1/8" or so you won't have to struggle to be able to insert the light back into the base.

Here's the whole process of how I did it. (not counting struggling with getting the trial and error part...only the things that worked)

1) Remove black plastic inner fairing piece on left side.
2) Unplug and remove the light and boot. Note, the spring clip hinges on the left and clips in on the right. To open it you push toward the light on the right side and push up and it opens.
3) Put the new plastic base in and clip it in place.
4) Trim 1/8" of rubber from the inner tube part of the boot as it prevents the rest of the light from being able to seat. It appears to still seal very well around the light and fairing.
5) Attach the two pig tails to the light fixture and place light into boot (it's very difficult to plug these in if you wait until the light is installed)
6) Install the light into the boot
7) Plug light into base and twist to lock it in place.
8) Locate where you want to put the red box and tie wrap it in place.
9) Plug the light into the original plug and tie wrap it in place where it won't be pinched by the forks.
10) Reinstall the inner fairing
11) Turn light on and do your happy dance.

:) :) :)
 

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Bub,

Here's a link to a video from Sandy in Utah (Baby Blue UT) that shows the easy way to remove the black panels.


BTW - are you related to any of the Fisher clan from Jacksonville?
 

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Bub,

Here's a link to a video from Sandy in Utah (Baby Blue UT) that shows the easy way to remove the black panels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgF-54XOy2s

BTW - are you related to any of the Fisher clan from Jacksonville?
I've seen that video of her replacing her windshield. It looks easy. The one where she changes the oil for the first time is funny.

As for Jacksonville, I don't know of any of my relatives ever settling in down there. I just got my AncestryDNA info back today and all my people settled in North Carolina and northern Alabama. It looks like I'm mostly German with around 30% Irish/Scottish. :)
 

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I took my bike out for a ride after putting in my OPT7 light. These are my observations:

1) The light of the 6000K is really blue in color which my eyes don't like. There's a lot more light out there, but the color of light is such that it blends with the color of asphalt and the grass making it actually harder for me to see than with the OEM bulb. It is much brighter but the color it emits makes white road signs and the white stripes in the road appear almost cyan in color and stand out really great.
2) The dim lights creates a horseshoe pattern of light with a dark hole of coverage down the middle of the road. It's not that the dim doesn't light the road, it does and to a normal distance the dim lights should. What creates the horseshoe pattern is how it lights up the sides of the road way out in front of you even on dim, and it extends very high to the tops of the trees. That's what creates the illusion of the center of the road not being lit. When you turn the brights on it fills this hole and lights the road way brighter and farther down the road than the OEM.
3) I found if you twist the light to where it fully seats in the base, it creates spots of light everywhere that makes it hard to gauge distance. I stopped and twisted the light counter-clockwise in the base just a little bit and I could see a smooth pattern evolve. That resolved the spotty issue.

I know a lot of people run the OPT 7 light, and like the bluish tint it emits like the HID lights, but it's not for me. There's something about the blue light and the way it reflects off signs that hurts my eyes so I'll be taking the OPT7 out and looking for a LED in the 5000k range instead of the 6000k. If anybody wants to buy my Opt 7 it'll be for sale. It has approximately 1 hour of use and is unharmed in any way.
 

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Just watched her oil change video. That was funny! Personally I use the spring type filter remover. Gets progressively tighter, and I've never failed to get one off. No matter how tight some gorilla put it on. Did the screwdriver through it thing once. Operative word once. Ripped that baby open like a tuna can! That's when I got the spring. :0.
 

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I took my bike out for a ride after putting in my OPT7 light. These are my observations:

1) The light of the 6000K is really blue in color which my eyes don't like. There's a lot more light out there, but the color of light is such that it blends with the color of asphalt and the grass making it actually harder for me to see than with the OEM bulb. It is much brighter but the color it emits makes white road signs and the white stripes in the road appear almost cyan in color and stand out really great.
2) The dim lights creates a horseshoe pattern of light with a dark hole of coverage down the middle of the road. It's not that the dim doesn't light the road, it does and to a normal distance the dim lights should. What creates the horseshoe pattern is how it lights up the sides of the road way out in front of you even on dim, and it extends very high to the tops of the trees. That's what creates the illusion of the center of the road not being lit. When you turn the brights on it fills this hole and lights the road way brighter and farther down the road than the OEM.
3) I found if you twist the light to where it fully seats in the base, it creates spots of light everywhere that makes it hard to gauge distance. I stopped and twisted the light counter-clockwise in the base just a little bit and I could see a smooth pattern evolve. That resolved the spotty issue.

I know a lot of people run the OPT 7 light, and like the bluish tint it emits like the HID lights, but it's not for me. There's something about the blue light and the way it reflects off signs that hurts my eyes so I'll be taking the OPT7 out and looking for a LED in the 5000k range instead of the 6000k. If anybody wants to buy my Opt 7 it'll be for sale. It has approximately 1 hour of use and is unharmed in any way.
Interesting. Mine is bluish but not that blue. Pretty white. I found lowering the bulb, right hand side bolt, takes care of it being too high, which it is if you leave it as the oem bulb is set.
 

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Excellent tutorial!
Spot on!
Couldn't be better!
I just bought this bike and followed these instructions and was able to successfully change my headlight bulb.
Would never have figured this out in a million years without this tutorial.
When I say I just bought this bike I mean that literally.
I just bought the bike pictured in this tutorial.
and my first maintenance project is replacing the headlight.
on the same bike.
the odds are astronomical!
cosmic.
 

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I took my bike out for a ride after putting in my OPT7 light. These are my observations:

1) The light of the 6000K is really blue in color which my eyes don't like. There's a lot more light out there, but the color of light is such that it blends with the color of asphalt and the grass making it actually harder for me to see than with the OEM bulb. It is much brighter but the color it emits makes white road signs and the white stripes in the road appear almost cyan in color and stand out really great.
2) The dim lights creates a horseshoe pattern of light with a dark hole of coverage down the middle of the road. It's not that the dim doesn't light the road, it does and to a normal distance the dim lights should. What creates the horseshoe pattern is how it lights up the sides of the road way out in front of you even on dim, and it extends very high to the tops of the trees. That's what creates the illusion of the center of the road not being lit. When you turn the brights on it fills this hole and lights the road way brighter and farther down the road than the OEM.
3) I found if you twist the light to where it fully seats in the base, it creates spots of light everywhere that makes it hard to gauge distance. I stopped and twisted the light counter-clockwise in the base just a little bit and I could see a smooth pattern evolve. That resolved the spotty issue.

I know a lot of people run the OPT 7 light, and like the bluish tint it emits like the HID lights, but it's not for me. There's something about the blue light and the way it reflects off signs that hurts my eyes so I'll be taking the OPT7 out and looking for a LED in the 5000k range instead of the 6000k. If anybody wants to buy my Opt 7 it'll be for sale. It has approximately 1 hour of use and is unharmed in any way.

This is the thing that's kept me from going LED. It's hard to find lower light temp leds. Another issue is the higher the color temp, the more reflective the light is. Thats why old school fogs were in the 3000 range and generally yellow. The reflective nature of the high temp leds makes them a nightmare (for my old eyes) during wet, rainy conditions. Combine all this with the fact that the factory reflector wasn't designed for led lights, and they seem a poor fit to me. YMMV.

Having said all that, I noticed on my last ride that my low beam is burned out so I'm looking for a replacement and something better than the weak factory bulbs. Any suggestions?
 

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This is the thing that's kept me from going LED. It's hard to find lower light temp leds. Another issue is the higher the color temp, the more reflective the light is. Thats why old school fogs were in the 3000 range and generally yellow. The reflective nature of the high temp leds makes them a nightmare (for my old eyes) during wet, rainy conditions, especially after dark. Combine all this with the fact that the factory reflector wasn't designed for led lights, and they seem a poor fit to me. YMMV.

Having said all that, I noticed on my last ride that my low beam is burned out so I'm looking for a replacement and something better than the weak factory bulbs. Any suggestions?
Better quality premium halogen bulbs can make a difference. They're not cheap.
 

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As I troll old posts on this forum I come across this lovely gem. Thanks for posting this! I’m gonna try it! Let me know if you guys have long term follow up notes regarding this modification that might also be helpful.
 
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