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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my 2014 CTX 700 a few weeks ago and the wife likes to ride on the back. I'm already a big guy and notice the suspension feels too soft. Was looking to change out the fork springs first, then the rear shock later. Reason being I am replacing the fork tubes because the originals are pitted and leaking badly. So while its apart might as well.
I have used Progressive suspension springs in the past and was very happy with them. I am looking at the 11-1122 or 11-1145 springs.
free length OD spacer length spring rate kg-mm
stock 360mm 35mm 200mm .57
11-1122 508mm 34mm 52mm .80/1.25
11-1145 457mm 34mm 103mm .71/1.16

Any reason these springs wouldn't work? I would just shorten the stock spacer to the appropriate length.
I'm leaning towards the 11-1145's because Racetech site says I should run a 1.03 kg-mm spring, but will also have a passenger sometimes.
 

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I just got my 2014 CTX 700 a few weeks ago and the wife likes to ride on the back. I'm already a big guy and notice the suspension feels too soft. Was looking to change out the fork springs first, then the rear shock later. Reason being I am replacing the fork tubes because the originals are pitted and leaking badly. So while its apart might as well.
I have used Progressive suspension springs in the past and was very happy with them. I am looking at the 11-1122 or 11-1145 springs.
free length OD spacer length spring rate kg-mm
stock 360mm 35mm 200mm .57
11-1122 508mm 34mm 52mm .80/1.25
11-1145 457mm 34mm 103mm .71/1.16

Any reason these springs wouldn't work? I would just shorten the stock spacer to the appropriate length.
I'm leaning towards the 11-1145's because Racetech site says I should run a 1.03 kg-mm spring, but will also have a passenger sometimes.
consider working with the rear shock first. our bikes have notoriously poor rear shocks. try upping the spring preload all the way before buying a known quality rear unit. many have and found it works wonders for the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
consider working with the rear shock first. our bikes have notoriously poor rear shocks. try upping the spring preload all the way before buying a known quality rear unit. many have and found it works wonders for the bike.
Yes I have seen this information before and have already done this. It helped, but it still feels soft. I should have said I did that in my first post.
I guess I know why I thought I got such a good deal since I need to replace the fork tubes and fork seals already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well today my fork tubes and springs showed up.
I got these fork tubes. These Progressive suspension 11-1145 springs.
Here you can see the difference in springs, spacers, and seals. New stuff on top and old on bottom.
Font Metal Auto part Electric blue Gun accessory

Then one done one to go. As you can see I used 20wt fork oil.
Wind instrument flute Writing implement Office supplies Musical instrument


Then both done and ready to go on the bike.
Blue Purple Wood Table Engineering


I did get them back on the bike and took it for a test ride. I can really tell a difference, feels like it soaks up the bumps better and doesn't brake dive. I rode this section of road prior and certain bumps would make it feel like its ripping the bars out of your hands. It has tamed it those down a good bit. Hopefully I can ride it some tomorrow weather permitting, on some roads I frequent to see if there is a big difference.

I also want to check the sag, even though I have nothing to compare it too. Never checked it with the old springs.
Anyone know what numbers I should be aiming for?
 

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I went 10wt and added cartridge emulators, so far only dirt road brake ripples defeat the fork response. There is a huge latitude on fork adjustments, with the displacement change on the springs the depth I set for 140mm vs stock 110mm... it seem to work well and not hydrolock.
Hand tool Bicycle part Nickel Automotive tire Tool
 

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