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For the first oil change (600 miles) looks like Honda isn't selling the 10/30 oil as specified in the manual.
Looks like Hondas 10/40 oil is what they want now.

Synthetic or not?
 

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First oil change for me is this weekend here in sunny FL. I have the generic blue Honda oil filter (Amazon), 4 L of Motul 5-40 and no DCT filter - yet. I chose synthetic for these reasons:

- high mileage oil, will not break down
- should reduce engine temps
- 5-40 is the best of both worlds - cold startups will get 5W and a hot engine will get 40W.

There are many synthetics out there will work, Shell Rotel was my 2nd choice at less than half the price.

Be aware, this topic stirs the passions of posters...
 

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When I first went to my dealer, they did not have the 10W30 oil recommended in the manual - figured I would use the listed oil for the first service. I asked about it and the service department said "that is the European specification oil, we use 10W40". At the next visit, when I got to the parts counter, they had Honda HP4S 10W30 full synthetic oil sitting on the shelf. I purchased it for the first change, but don't know if I will use it going forward. I would rather use a good oil that I can find locally, which will likely be a 10W40.
 

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1st change done, minor PIA

Mainly due to the clearances. After a short drive to warm the oil, the covers came off quickly, I promptly broke my cheapo 12mm socket on the drain plug, used my metric wrench as backup. Misjudged the intensity of the flow, dropped half a quart on the floor. Had a band wrench for the main filter, no problems there. The oem blue filter's crush washer was too big for the drain plug, used the old one. My DCT filter had not arrived, left old one in place. Refill took most of the 4 L Motul jug. Used my judgement on the tightness of the parts.

Test drive went great, no leaks. I swear the shifts are noticably smoother even after factoring in the placebo effect.

Would not recommend the effort if one is lacking in tools or knowledge. Real glad this is a 5000 or more mile deal. Will replace the DCT filter when it arrives.

Oiled the chain too while I was rolling around the garage floor.
 

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Of course my DCT filter came in the mail 2 hours after the oil change...Western Honda ships fast and reasonable. Local dealer didn't even have one.
 

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DCT filter change way easier than expected. Spent most of the time figuring out which end of the cap goes up as it seems it can go either way! (bevel side up).

1) removed right side covers
2) grabbed a paper cup for oil spillage, opened cap
3) removed filter using magnetic screwdriver end without the bit
4) put all back together with new filter (I did not even notice the O-ring)

Total oil in cup = few tablespoons.
 

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DCT filter change way easier than expected. Spent most of the time figuring out which end of the cap goes up as it seems it can go either way! (bevel side up).
Here you go - a virgin (never taken off) photo before my oil change yesterday. Dbl-click to make it a little larger.
 

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Did my first oil change today. Everything went well except getting the oil filter off. It took 4 wrenches before it would loosen. I used Lucas 10w 30 and honda filters (dct filter changed too). This was my first ever oil change for anything except a lawn mower. It's purring!!
 

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Did my first oil change today. Everything went well except getting the oil filter off. It took 4 wrenches before it would loosen. I used Lucas 10w 30 and honda filters (dct filter changed too). This was my first ever oil change for anything except a lawn mower. It's purring!!


first ever !!!! Great Job (we don't count mowers as vehicles anyway unless it's your present mode of transportation because you lost your license). we knew you could do it. I had to chisel my filter off it was so tight.
 
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Everything went well except getting the oil filter off. It took 4 wrenches before it would loosen.
I've seen some workshop guys and they just grap a big heavy screwdriver and drive it into the old filter with a mallet. Then they have the leverage to get it off quickly...time is money. They also have a bigger than average container underneath for everything to fall into. New one goes on with just the smallest smear of oil on the o-ring and do the new filter up real tight with just clean strong hands, or the smallest "nip" with a short spanner if the filter has a hex end. New filter is straight out of the box and squeaky clean as well.
Not for folk unfamiliar with workshop practice, but I've never heard of one coming off. Job done before you can blink.
 

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Did my first oil change today. Everything went well except getting the oil filter off. It took 4 wrenches before it would loosen. I used Lucas 10w 30 and honda filters (dct filter changed too). This was my first ever oil change for anything except a lawn mower. It's purring!!
I had trouble as well. Honda Japan got a little overzealous in the torque they apply to these oil filters. I only used two wrenches. I bought a plastic socket-type filter wrench that one attaches to a ratchet. I stripped the wrench on the ratchet side on quick order. I took it back and the clerk stated that it was guaranteed not to strip, so he gave me a refund. I then exchanged for one of those channel-lock style wrenches that is more expensive. It took a lot of griping pressure and turning pressure to get it loose. But it won't happen next time. I tightened just beyond hand tight like filters are supposed to be tightened.

I used a Honda automotive filter. As I posted above, someone @ the NC700X forum has checked out the specs of the auto filter versus the CTX filter and has reported that the auto filter is exactly the same as the CTX filter; only a little longer. I bought two for $10 at the Honda auto dealership. Something I learned but didn't know, because I've never owned a Honda, all Honda cars, trucks, minivans, etc., except for the S2000, use the same filter, and so does the CTX.
 

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Just a suggestion here, and since I havent seen where the oil filter is located on the CTX this may or may not work, but I have two sizes of rubber strap wrenches that totalled less then $20.00 for both. Watching the you tube video above I am convinced that I could use them to remove the oil filter without much problem at all on the Kawasaki he is working on. If the CTX has the room it should be the same.

Originally I purchased them for holding the variator still while using an impact to remove the variator nut on an old Yamaha Zuma that I had modded. I have learned that there are many more uses for those cheap strap wrenches than just that.
 

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1st oil change

It looks like most are going with Synthetic oil on the 600 mile change ..... I was not sure but was leaning to go with my AMSOIL 10/40.....Been using Amsoil for about 14 years and its worked well in my wings,valkyrie,BMW1100,triumph etc....Dealer doesn't cotton to amsoil but does recommend 10/40 because of the warmer climate down here....Looks like thats what I'm going with.....as well as 204 Hi-flo filter.....
 

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I used Valvoline 10W-40 conventional Motorcycle Oil, changed oil and filter in a Walmart parking lot in the dark (with flashlight) about 250 miles from home on the first night of a 3 day trip. Yes, I forgot to change it before leaving the house. That will not happen again and I have no idea how it did to begin with.
 

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A suggestion, now that the blister on my hand has healed: Use an old pair of gloves that are laying around in the garage or buy a pair of Mechanix gloves. That catalytic converter is hot. :(
 

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Anyone running Rotella T6 in this bike, I run it my other bikes and like it but don't know how it would fair in the DCT?
I run T6 in it but have manual transmission. Now have 2995 miles on CTX. Since you have other bikes, you are not new to oil changes. Use the oil you want not necessarily the oil anyone else says they use and why. It's your bike.

Dual clutch or manual clutch is still a wet clutch.
 
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