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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys. in the last months i have some troubles with my ctx700dct 2014.
the actual problem i have now after change to new battery. so can not be a battery problems!
1. problems never by start a tour, most times by last stop (after 5 to 8 hours) .
2. stop bike always go to N, turn of with key
3. when get the problem, after about 15 all ok.
Start bike all ok, will shift to D/S mode not work. normally the change with hard click into gear, somtimes only soft click and after short moment go in. Somtimes gear go in but only first one and on display show the line and not the gear. can drive in 1 and also shift to S and M and back to N, but not to manual.

Bevor change battery also by some stop the gear light go to line, but then not can go back to N. after some minutes start bike again an all works ok.

so have someone a idea what can be?
 

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howdy, first , welcome to the forum. if you tell us where you are and what language you speak at home, someone here may be able to answer in that language.
i can only make one suggestion from what i gather in your complaint. there is sometimes a shift shaft problem in the transmission but it is rare. do you have a manual for this motorcycle? if not , you can get one online which will give you a detailed sequence for finding out what kind of problem you may have and how to fix it. i would suggest you disconnect the battery and check all the wires for proper tightness and then re-connect the battery carefully to make sure the connections are perfect.
again, welcome and i hope someone here will be able to help more.
ken
 

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I would still check all connections at the battery, especially since you just changed it. I had a very similar set of circumstances occur on my VFR and it was a bad terminal on a brand new Yuasa battery. Have you recently performed the DCT reset procedure? If you did, and you failed to get the bike to operating temperature before performing this routine, the problems you are describing can occur.
 

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Some things to check (search the forum for the detailed information)

Check battery connections.
Check oil level (bike should be upright and not on side stand). Low or too full oil level has caused transmission issues.
There has been an issue with a few transmissions where a bolt has worked itself loose inside. You may be in a borderline condition with that bolt.
I believe there is a transmission/ecu reset procedure you could try.
 

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If you plan on troubleshooting it yourself you will need access to the Service Manual. I would first check for DTC’s, Diagnostic Trouble Codes to see if the computer has anything to say about it. Remember that one part can throw a code due to another part not doing its job to allow that part to work, so just throwing parts at it to cure a specific code is not a good strategy. You need to know the theory of how everything works together to come up with the right solution. There was one problem like yours on the NC700 forum if my memory is correct where the dealer replaced the battery, oil, filters, clutch pack, computer and checked for loose shift pin to find out when Honda got involved that the shift control motor was bad. The shift control motor would have taken less than 5 minutes to remove and test. Good luck.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1299001/Honda-Ctx700n-Nd.html?page=241#manual
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1299001/Honda-Ctx700n-Nd.html?page=310#manual
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for your reply
first im from Switzerland and live in Thailand.
on my bike are about 75k km. At about 10k i had the problem with the loose gear shift. After that no problem again.
Now about 60k km later (last 3 months) again problems. Dealer say battery or oil sensors. First changed battery, not help, changed oil sensors, not help, change speed sensor, not help. change battery again, not help.
only the kind of problems change a little bit. First was that the bike hanging in a gear (show on display only - ), can not change to N, turn of with key, after bike cooling start again, gear klicks and change to N, all works ok again. After all change (see above) now only problems when on tour stops and will start shortly not will change from N to D, or change but on display show - and can drive only in gear 1. Stop and wait few minutes and works normal.

so i think must by a Relais or the gear shift motor.
 

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Find another dealer with a competent technician to take a fresh look at it if possible. I would question why the multiple battery changes. Did both batteries test bad in a short amount of time or were they changed because he ran out of ideas. There is a function test for the shift control motor using the Honda MCS computer and it also can be tested off the bike. Attached is an example of how to get it out of limp mode when you get the – sign where the gear number shows. The owners manual has instructions on what to do when you get the – sign and one of them is start the engine while applying the brake lever or pressing the brake pedal
 

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hi guys. In the last months i have some troubles with my ctx700dct 2014.
The actual problem i have now after change to new battery. So can not be a battery problems!
1. Problems never by start a tour, most times by last stop (after 5 to 8 hours) .
2. Stop bike always go to n, turn of with key
3. When get the problem, after about 15 all ok.
Start bike all ok, will shift to d/s mode not work. Normally the change with hard click into gear, somtimes only soft click and after short moment go in. Somtimes gear go in but only first one and on display show the line and not the gear. Can drive in 1 and also shift to s and m and back to n, but not to manual.

Bevor change battery also by some stop the gear light go to line, but then not can go back to n. After some minutes start bike again an all works ok.

So have someone a idea what can be?
welcome to our forum...the guys and gays here are the best...thanks for your question and good luck.
 

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I hope this doesn't sound off the wall but...The DCT system is controlled by the PCM, the PCM also has input and output to the PGM-FI. The bike is going into fail safe mode to prevent something serious but it may be due to something involved with fuel injection and not the tranny. Was the air filter ever changed? A clogged air filter will alter the A/F ratio and the PCM may not be able to compensate and shut down the bike.
 

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I hope this doesn't sound off the wall but...The DCT system is controlled by the PCM, the PCM also has input and output to the PGM-FI. The bike is going into fail safe mode to prevent something serious but it may be due to something involved with fuel injection and not the tranny. Was the air filter ever changed? A clogged air filter will alter the A/F ratio and the PCM may not be able to compensate and shut down the bike.
That is very interesting. Great item to keep in my back pocket. Thanks for that!
 

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I hope this doesn't sound off the wall but...The DCT system is controlled by the PCM, the PCM also has input and output to the PGM-FI. The bike is going into fail safe mode to prevent something serious but it may be due to something involved with fuel injection and not the tranny. Was the air filter ever changed? A clogged air filter will alter the A/F ratio and the PCM may not be able to compensate and shut down the bike.
Not off the wall at all. The service manual states “The DCT system is controlled by the PCM. Therefore some detection items are shared in the PGM-FI and DCT systems, and they may affect the operation of both systems”. It goes on to say “• If the shift indicator - blinks, check the PGM-FI DTC (page 4-9). If there is any problem in the PGM-FI system, troubleshoot it first. Then recheck the DCT system after erasing the PGM-FI DTC. If there are any DTC’s on the engine operation side it will blink the engine symbol on the MIL” malfunction indicator light” and a DCT issue will flash a - on the gear position. It may be possible that erratic engine performance may confuse the DCT and send it into safe or limp mode.
 

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It is very important to follow the flow charts for troubleshooting anything these days."Shotgunning" parts is no way to fix anything, you can induce more troubles by use of a defective part or a part not "seated" with other components. Without a test unit, trying to read blinks for subsystem faults is difficult at best. Sometimes it's best to step back and go through the basics. The original poster lives in Thailand and a good Honda tech may be hard to find.Download the service manual and follow the flows.This will insure that the parts you installed are working to spec. When it comes to batteries, I can't express to strongly the importance of using the battery designed for this bike. The battery is a storage device, similar to a capacitor in it's effect on the charging and running of the bike. It smooths out transients in voltages. When it starts to lose the ability to charge properly through the alternator, it affects the PCM's ability to regulate the bikes functions. It is not designed for a lithium battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
hi guys
was now again on tour. Again shift stop work after 4h driving.
On the way i visit a dealer. He checked the bike and tell me that the TR-Sensor overheated. He had not on stock, so we drive away, but after this my problem starts now after 50km. After break 30 min, start bike, shift go back to N. All ok for next 50 km. So i drove home in gear 4.
Next week go for Service and maybe change this Sensor.
 

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hi guys
was now again on tour. Again shift stop work after 4h driving.
On the way i visit a dealer. He checked the bike and tell me that the TR-Sensor overheated. He had not on stock, so we drive away, but after this my problem starts now after 50km. After break 30 min, start bike, shift go back to N. All ok for next 50 km. So i drove home in gear 4.
Next week go for Service and maybe change this Sensor.
Good news that you've identified the problem. I know it was a pain, and sorry that you went through it, but sharing your experiences will certainly help others her to get back on the road quickly, and maybe save some time, money, and frustration.
 

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...He checked the bike and tell me that the TR-Sensor overheated...
Too much guessing.
Look for a Honda shop equipped with MCS (Motorcycle Communication System) and ask for the test:
"DRIVE TRAIN MODE MENU - FUNCTION TEST - SHIFT CONTROL MOTOR"
(according to Service Manual 12-3).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Problems solved:
after last trip i go to my dealer and tell him check the sensor and the gear shift motor.
He changed the gear shift motor from a other bike for test. I drived then near 1000 km with no problem. Ordered new one and now also after 3000 km no problem again. Thanks guys for you tips.
 

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hi guys
On the way i visit a dealer. He checked the bike and tell me that the TR-Sensor overheated.
What is a TR-Sensor? Looking at the service manual I do not see "TR-Sensor" nor "TR Sensor". I see "sensor" mentioned several times. One for wheel speed sensor, pg 83,102,106, and another for A banking (lean angle) sensor, page 119

I have a problem where my bike is getting stuck in gear; normally 4th when the bike gets hot. It's in the shop right now and I was just informed they are replacing the angle sensor. Hope this solves my problem.
 

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Problems solved:
after last trip i go to my dealer and tell him check the sensor and the gear shift motor.
He changed the gear shift motor from a other bike for test. I drived then near 1000 km with no problem. Ordered new one and now also after 3000 km no problem again. Thanks guys for you tips.
Thank you so much for posting your issue and the cure that worked for your bike. The shift control motor is the first thing I will check due to according to the service manual is the easiest thing to remove and test. You can test it by applying 12 volts to it and see if it runs forward and backwards. Problem is that when it’s weak it will run forward and backwards. That is why it will shift up and down until you get down the road when it fails. You need a way to see if under load, it will run. Although the shop can do a function test with the Honda MCS, possibly the only real world way to determine if it is bad is to replace it with a known good unit.

Also the Transmission range sensor and shift spindle angle sensor are part of the shift motor circuit and if the motor fails to execute its commands it may cause them to throw a code. Thus the Tech concentrates on those parts as bad first. There seems to be no specific code generated for just the shift motor.
 
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