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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have '15 DCT that couldn't shift into D (bought the thing that way)
After many attempts to troubleshoot the problem, I visit local Honda dealer, they as well tested the error 84-1 and 86-1 faulty PCM (computer)
I now have a new (used) ECU and the kinda-a-reset of the DCT is necessary. Followed strictly the process in the manual, and the D-D-N-D-N pattern failed to succeed. Have the 2sec "-" blinking and after I start the bike it doesn't complete it all the way - have the 0.5sec flashing and D+S stays ON and the bike shift rough and when idle still want to move (rpm arround 1000)
Both PGM-FI and DCT have no stored errors, even tried to simulate random error and successfully erase it after, still the DDNDN fail.
Oil is exactly 3.4L new, bought it from the dealer.
I have read about issues with the shift pin in the DCT getting loosed, have the clutch side cover off and that bolt is tight, everything else looks normal.
Any ideas what else could be done?
 

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When you say you followed it exactly, did you let the engine warm up? It will likely fail if you have not. Also, check the battery. I know these are basic steps and my apologies if I am stating the obvious. But, the DCT reset issue on a cold engine is pretty common.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
After 50+ attempts sure the engine was worm. I did have big and small L until the oil get to the right temperature. Have the bike on side stand, straight up, tilted on either side, shaked , rolled etc . Read here in the forum that when left to Honda dealer to change the oil, they many times overfill it, tried even that adding additional 100,200,300ml then draining it. Battery is new and you are right, I saw here in the forum that DCT is sensitive about the power from the battery needed to be absolutely spot on. Will try with jumper wires from a car battery, thats usefull, yes! What else... I am loosing track of all the the efforts I've tried. Oh, one thing thats curious in the initial step when turning the key ON and holding the D button, the engine light does go off very quickly. But the process begin and I'm crossing that over.
 

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Yup. Sounds like you are really trying everything. So DCT is DCT basically. Go over to the NC700 forum and look for two members; dduelin and 670cc. These two guys know a lot about both bikes and DCT. I think the other guy is Showkey. Find every forum for every bike that has DCT and post the issue there. I bet you'll get an answer. The VFR(crosstourer) forum has a lot of contributors that are really sharp. DCT is enormously popular on quads and side by sides so you might want to check those forums too. Anyhow, hopefully, that will produce a solution.

You know what, I'll copy and paste it on the NC700 forum

https://www.nc700-forum.com/forum/c...ion-issue-ctx700-ctx700-forum.html#post218595
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, thanks a lot! I didn't realize the NC forum have CTX section. Did a reggie I'll re post in the tech forum. Underneath they are all the same. Here in Europe we do have so called maxi scooter, Honda Integra 700 that is technical copy of the CTX and NC dunno if it was sold in the states.
 

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If I could legally and economically import an Integra I would. I love that bike (any quirky vehicle really). If it came here, I would buy it first-year and be the first guy in line. That and the Xadventure 745. Make sure to seek out dduelin on the NC700 forum for sure. That guy has never been wrong as far as I recall.
 

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I would not hook up a car battery to it for any extended amount of time other than for a short couple seconds for a jump start. I would go back through the “Before starting this procedure check list especially confirming there are no DTC’s and engine idle speed is normal. You said “when idle still want to move (rpm around 1000)”. This may be due to the idle is too high. Normal idle is 1,200 ± 100 rpm. It is impossible to tell accurately from the RPM gauge what the idle speed truly is. You would need to get a digital tachometer to accurately read it. When you start the bike it might see that the idle is too high and aborts the initialization. Check that the throttle has the correct amount of play and is fully closing. Just out of curiosity, plug in the original computer and see if you can initialize it.
 

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Am I reading this correctly? Are you holding the transmission in "D" mode when starting the bike? Think of a car tranny-Shut her down in "N" and start her in "N"
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would not hook up a car battery to it for any extended amount of time other than for a short couple seconds for a jump start. I would go back through the “Before starting this procedure check list especially confirming there are no DTC’s and engine idle speed is normal. You said “when idle still want to move (rpm around 1000)”. This may be due to the idle is too high. Normal idle is 1,200 ± 100 rpm. It is impossible to tell accurately from the RPM gauge what the idle speed truly is. You would need to get a digital tachometer to accurately read it. When you start the bike it might see that the idle is too high and aborts the initialization. Check that the throttle has the correct amount of play and is fully closing. Just out of curiosity, plug in the original computer and see if you can initialize it.
I've been through DTC and there non. I went and unplug the temperature sensor plug just to see if its gonna pop and error, and then to try to erase it and it did erase any stored DTC.
After you said it, yepp, I wont try adding battery but that golden computer could be fried again for no reason.
The rpm's are as follow: cold ~1400 warm ~1200, pretty sure the bike want to move when idling because of the clutch not being calibrated and not on the right spot. Same reason it change the gears really noticeable, rough, noisy. Throttle working properly.

Am I reading this correctly? Are you holding the transmission in "D" mode when starting the bike? Think of a car tranny-Shut her down in "N" and start her in "N"
Excuse the confusion, English is not my first language. No, I don't start the bike while holding D button. Only initially when turning the ignition ON

If I could legally and economically import an Integra I would. I love that bike (any quirky vehicle really). If it came here, I would buy it first-year and be the first guy in line. That and the Xadventure 745. Make sure to seek out dduelin on the NC700 forum for sure. That guy has never been wrong as far as I recall.
Integra was my first choice, many of them arround, on the opposite is the CTX, I don't think we have a single one in our country. Was browsing for the right deal for Integra, but then spotted the CTX and the style is just the right for me! Being lightly crashed the price was a bargain which was also a must . I have fantastic Suzuki Gladius that I'm so pleased with, but the manual gears could be annoying in city riding, also after 18years and 14cars I never had an automatic and I have enough of standard in city traffic.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's solved guys! I was so careful when trying to calibrate the thing, warming the engine was only on idle, didn't want to ride the bike with this rough changing gears. Only some 100m on first and second. After 3 days double checking everything I had enough and went for a shakedown all of the gears and surprise surprise when I finally stopped the bike didn't want to move on idle as before. Tried the DDNDN again and it worked first time! My guess is the bike sitting for a months now and maybe the motor that change the gears was struggling to go end-to-end (my guess of the calibration process happening inside)
Here it is. Ignore the cheap universal headlight. The first thing on the list after I have registration complete.
That will be another thread in the visual subforum. Still wondering which route shall I go, for a fancy aftermarket or go stock.

Many thanks to all involved, wanted to help, especially MZFlorida!!!
 

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Glad that it is up and running! You lucked out with it resolving itself! Take whatever you can get in the "luck" department.
 

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Great that you got it working. Paint the exhaust with flat Black outdoor grill paint. Makes a huge difference in the looks of the bike IMO.
 

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https://www.nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-technical/14521-dct-issue-20.html

Just in case it resurfaces. Long thread. Ultimately, shift control motor.
I remember following this and if you read it from the beginning. It’s a “ I will drop it off at the dealer and have it professionally repaired” nightmare. This is why I say the first accessory you should buy is the service manual and try to work through and thoroughly understand any issues yourself. You would think common sense would have dictated before replacing expensive parts like the ECM and clutch pack the dealer would have spent less than 5 minutes pulling the shift motor and testing it. This also goes to show how you have to understand how everything works together and how one part going bad can make another part throw a code because of it. The dealer mindlessly replacing parts solely based on codes in this case was a bad strategy.

I have read where getting the bike hot to the point of just before the fan comes on is the temp needed to reliably execute the initialization process. Possibly this is the reason it worked.
 

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This is why I say the first accessory you should buy is the service manual and try to work through and thoroughly understand any issues yourself.
Agreed. But I have to add that the value a good forum brings to the table is immeasurable as well. We can collectively fail quickly and get on with what we need to get on with. My two cents. For me, because I don't have friends who like to work on bikes (I do), technical forums help me talk out challenges or when I am stumped.
 
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