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Discussion Starter #1
I am the least mechanical, but I will try to detail what went on in a short order:
1) Rode Monday, all fine, getting low on gas.
2) Kid next door and I install Shad rack with seat removed. Replaced seat and put on battery tender.
3) Today, disconnect tender and starts fine and all electrical displays are fine.
4) Ride a couple blocks and start off toward gas station and suddenly it is acting like it is stuck in first gear. Realize that there is zero display and nothing electrical except my modulated headlight is fine. No turn signals, no brake lights, no display, just the headlight.
5) Tried D/S/M and no changes. Ride in bicycle lane to gas station in case that is the problem. Gas fill changes nothing.
6) Now it will go about a block in this first gear mode and then move to a Neutral equivalent by itself-no power, but engine running and revving.
7) Shut it off restart, put in D and it does the same as 6. Always starts fine
8) Limp it home and in to garage.
9) Put on battery tender.
10) Now all the above is the same except when you turn on the key you hear the sound of the fuel pump pressurizing and about 4 sounds of clunk, clunk, clunk and then that stops. Key off and try again and get exact same thing. Still only the headlight is working, even on the battery tender.
So... I am willing to try some simple stuff that you will suggest. When I get time tomorrow I will check the fuses - which ones should I zero in on?? Anything else to try.
Thanks in advance for any help. Signing off for a while and will check back later today and several times each day for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Read my description. I should say now while it is doing #10 it will not start - no sounds at all when start switch is pushed.
 

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Everything you have described points to electrical system. Check all fuses, pull and inspect. Check battery charge with voltmeter, engine off 12.6 is full charge depending on temperature of the battery. Then check voltage with engine running, if possible, which is a problem at the moment. Should see under 15 volts per the service manual on page 21-5 and 21-6.
 

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Starter relay, battery, or battery cables is my bet. I had something similar on my VFR DCT and it was a defective terminal on a brand new battery. Symptoms were similar circumstances were different. I would start there before pulling all of your fuses. Also, check your battery cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone. I will start a good look at the battery and maybe the fuses tomorrow. Have only had the rig a little over a month. Came to me with 6K on it, so no details about battery. I did measure the voltage at 12.7 volts after it's last run on the charger.
 

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I would check the illum/stop/ horn and clock/turn fuses. The turn signal and brake light /combo meter are on two separate circuits. If both are blown you have a major short somewhere. Look under the Fuse box cover cap and there are 4 spare fuses under there but I think only one is a 7.5 amp. You can get these at any auto parts store. If there is any after market electrical gizmos like flashing brake lights or usb ports I would check those first. The previous owner may have tapped into these circuits which are now causing you problems. If the fuses are good, fully charge the battery and take it to Batteries Plus, auto parts store or bike shop and have it load tested. Its usually no cost and the only way to judge if the battery is good. Some older batteries can accept a full charge but are worthless under load. Hope its just the battery.
 

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If it's not cranking, most likely a bad battery that won't hold a charge. Take it to a local car supplier like O'reily and they can test the battery for a load.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Although it had been in the back of my mind dgall's note set me in the right direction. I had indeed added a brake light modulator a couple weeks ago. So, I looked there first. All the wires had come loose from their wire nuts and were bouncing around. Also, a couple have sections of insulation warren off from vibration. Who knows which ones might have touched each other and caused a short. One of the previous owners had added LED brake lights around the license plate frame. For some reason he used VERY light wire - like smaller than even a junk speaker wire would be. So, I am headed out to just cut the modulator out of the circuit and cap the ends of his wire, I can't even see where/what he tapped in to. After capping those wires I will start looking at the fuses. Keep your fingers crossed for me. Will update you tomorrow. As always. THANKS, for all the contributions.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not the main 30 amp fuse. Does anybody have a diagram of which fuses are which circuits? I can't find anything in the owners manual or the shop manual I was given by the person I bought it from. Will a "fuse puller" really help get those little buggers out? I have no idea how to grab them. Any tips on doing that I would appreciate. THX!
 

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Near the last page in the service manual, page 23-3 has the wiring diagram for the DCT model. Click on the + sign inside the magnifying glass top right on the attached link and then drag the magnifying glass down near the bottom right corner. You will see the fuses numbered. Just above the list is the fuse box with the corresponding numbers beneath the color identified wires that go to each fuse. Much easier to read it on the paper diagram in the manual than on a computer screen. Example # 6 fuse Ilum/stop/horn is feeding two pink/ blue tracer wires coming out of the fuse box. Needle nose pliers or pick up a plastic fuse puller at the auto parts store when your picking up replacement fuses. Small vehicle type LED lights typically use a higher gauge or thinner wire due to very low amp draw.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1299001/Honda-Ctx700n-Nd.html?page=543#manual
 

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I mean what I am about to type in the most polite way. Electrical systems on motorcycles are very simple. Diagnosing issues is a pain in the hindside; in my opinion, it is because of how cramped everything is and the panels one has to remove to resolve. But I want to encourage you that with patience and a multimeter you can fix it.
 

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Don't let a battery fool you.

A battery can show volts on a meter. A load test of a battery tells if it's really good. You can find a load tester at Harbor Freight for under $22. Some parts stores will load test your battery for free.
 

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Although it had been in the back of my mind dgall's note set me in the right direction. I had indeed added a brake light modulator a couple weeks ago. So, I looked there first. All the wires had come loose from their wire nuts and were bouncing around. Also, a couple have sections of insulation warren off from vibration. Who knows which ones might have touched each other and caused a short. One of the previous owners had added LED brake lights around the license plate frame. For some reason he used VERY light wire - like smaller than even a junk speaker wire would be. So, I am headed out to just cut the modulator out of the circuit and cap the ends of his wire, I can't even see where/what he tapped in to. After capping those wires I will start looking at the fuses. Keep your fingers crossed for me. Will update you tomorrow. As always. THANKS, for all the contributions.

You still need to check battery if no fuses blown. Also don't be surprised if you have to take the Tupperware off and find where he tapped wires. They could be "botched" too.
 

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get a 12v test light, local auto store or HF, they're cheap. Ground the "clip" to the neg. - batt. post, test by touching the pos.+ post. Use the sharp point to check each side of your fuses (with the key on) by touching it in the tiny holes in the top of each fuse. Both sides should light. "Wire nuts"are for house wiring, not something that's moving & shaking like a MC. They should be crimped. P/U a kit at your local auto store or HF. 18ga wire is okay for LED brake lights. Seems like in the the last 8-10 years all 12v systems have gone to much smaller wire..... keep us posted on how you're doing..... good luck.
 

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.......................... Check battery charge with voltmeter, engine off 12.6 is full charge depending on temperature of the battery. ...........................
No, a new healthy battery should show 12.9 to maybe a little over 13. 12.6-12.7 is getting weak. 12.4 is a battery in need of replacement.

I ran some careful experiments on measuring batteries a few years back. If you take a 12.4 battery and let it sit on a charger for a day and then remove the charger, the battery will measure 13+ or so. This does not indicate that you have recharged the battery and "fixed the problem". You need to let the battery sit for 24-36 hours. A new healthy battery will slowly discharge over 24 hours and stabilize around 12.9 or so. A battery needing replacement will slowly discharge over 24 - 36 hours to around 12.4 or so. You have to wait until the battery voltage stabilizes in order to get a measurement that means anything.

If that battery is stabilizing at 12.7, it's should be still OK but is not a good healthy battery.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #20
get a 12v test light, local auto store or HF, they're cheap. Ground the "clip" to the neg. - batt. post, test by touching the pos.+ post. Use the sharp point to check each side of your fuses (with the key on) by touching it in the tiny holes in the top of each fuse. Both sides should light. "Wire nuts"are for house wiring, not something that's moving & shaking like a MC. They should be crimped. P/U a kit at your local auto store or HF. 18ga wire is okay for LED brake lights. Seems like in the the last 8-10 years all 12v systems have gone to much smaller wire..... keep us posted on how you're doing..... good luck.
Wow, this is the tip of the century. With the voltmeter I tested all my fuses in place in about 30 sec. It was indeed the 7.5 that dgall suggested, the ilum/stop/horn fuse. Now the display lights entirely, but still no start, and that 5 clunks when I turn on the ignition still exist. So now on to testing the battery and load and also the starter relay. I will keep you posted. Again, thanks to all for the great tips to a 71 year old not very mechanically/electrically inclined man.
 
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