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Discussion Starter #1
For those not familiar with my bike or mission, a quick recap. After years of dragracing some pretty quick cars/bikes and retiring to support my sons racing career I decided to go dragracing (bracket racing) again. I had two goals,, first I wanted the slowest bike at the track as I used to hate chasing down slow guys with little to no maintenance in between rounds on the bike. Second, I wanted it to be somewhat inexpensive to show the young guys it doesn't take a big budget to have fun and be competitive. I'm happy to say I have succeeded on both accounts! I finished 2nd in points at Lucas Oil Raceway in the Pro Bike Class this year and just won the V-Twin class on Sun. at the Mancup 190Hookup.com Nationals at Rockingham (rulebook says any configuration of twin cylinder). Have the World Finals coming up in November and a shot at winning the class championship (Mancup) in V-Twin.
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Discussion Starter #5
Nothing performance oriented. Idea was to keep it mostly stock for the dependability and consistency. I did add a programmable shift light(I run it in manual mode), a water(radiator) temp gauge and currently adding a oil temp gauge. Mainly changes to make it more comfortable and unique. Paint, different handlebars, black rear sprocket, gold chain and a car tire.
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Congrats! Wait.....VTwin????
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you were looking for the slowest bike you found it. What were your times?

Did you get better times in Sport mode or push button shifting?
I found the bike was NOT very consistent running in sport mode. I run it in manual mode(with programmable shift light) and short shift it to slow it down. Most tracks I race at have a maximum dial in of 15.99(slowest you can go). In sport mode, all out the bike has run 14.90s. It only has 500 miles on it so I would imagine it would pick up once broken in. At the last race I was dialed 15.20s pretty much all day.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Love the paint job!
Thanks! Some rattle can flat black and fluorescent orange striping tape really woke the appearance up.
Darksider!! Congratulations as noted above by many. I too would like video, or links to same.(y)
Darksider!! Congratulations as noted above by many. I too would like video, or links to same.(y)
Darksider!! Congratulations as noted above by many. I too would like video, or links to same.(y)
My run is at about the 2 minute mark. Last year from Georgia.
 

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I found the bike was NOT very consistent running in sport mode. I run it in manual mode(with programmable shift light) and short shift it to slow it down. Most tracks I race at have a maximum dial in of 15.99(slowest you can go). In sport mode, all out the bike has run 14.90s. It only has 500 miles on it so I would imagine it would pick up once broken in. At the last race I was dialed 15.20s pretty much all day.
That is interesting. What were the inconsistencies? What would you attribute them to?
Really a great accomplishment and fun hobby too.
 

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With under 500 miles why did you change the chain and sprocket and use a clipped master link vs pressed and peened? Did you change the ratio? I would like to see how you hook up the oil temp gauge. Are you going to tap into the existing EOT sensor? I have the Trail Tech water temp gauge. It is great for $50.00 and installs with basically a razor knife and a screw driver in minuets. The announcer in the video totally ignores you when you have the most interesting bike there with the DCT transmission. Possibly the advantage in consistency is in your launch. At the light you just consistently twist to wide open throttle and shift up under power vs the competition. Good luck in November!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That is interesting. What were the inconsistencies? What would you attribute them to?
Really a great accomplishment and fun hobby too.
In auto mode the bike would vary by up to 1/2 a second over the course of the day. It wasn't progressively slower or faster, it was all over the place. I.e. 15.70 one run then 15.30 the next, then maybe a 15.52 on the third. Made it really tough to dial when races are won or lost by sometimes .001 seconds. I asked about the "self learning" aspect of the ECU thinking maybe with as little miles is on the bike maybe that was the issue. Couldn't really find a definitive answer so I swapped out the ECU for one with 7k miles on it. I also switched to shifting manually at the same time and the consistency came right around so I'm not really sure which helped. Maybe a combo of both. I had to remind myself this bike was designed to be a economical cruiser and I'm doing something totally oddball with it. I'm still convinced this will be a deadly combination when I get it all figured out and we are finally making good progress as we have had a great season this year. I did find engine temp is crucial as when the bike gets hot (not over temp) the shifting gets sluggish. Keep in mind on the street most people would never notice any of this.
With under 500 miles why did you change the chain and sprocket and use a clipped master link vs pressed and peened? Did you change the ratio? I would like to see how you hook up the oil temp gauge. Are you going to tap into the existing EOT sensor? I have the Trail Tech water temp gauge. It is great for $50.00 and installs with basically a razor knife and a screw driver in minuets. The announcer in the video totally ignores you when you have the most interesting bike there with the DCT transmission. Possibly the advantage in consistency is in your launch. At the light you just consistently twist to wide open throttle and shift up under power vs the competition. Good luck in November!!!
I switched the chain mainly because we all know the factories have never really splurged on high quality chains but truthfully just changed it and sprocket for aesthetic purposes. Kept stock gearing as I didn't want to possibly effect anything with the computer. I ran the link chain as that is what I have run for years.
As for the oil temp gauge my plan is to use a T right at the case so I can retain the factory EOT sensor again so it doesn't possibly mess with the computer.
The auto clutch is definitely helpful but most classes I run the other guys are running similar after market lockup clutches that are either engine rpm driven or wheel speed driven with air shifters hooked up to a shift light. Basically i bought a whole bike for what these guys spend on a clutch and air shifter setup.
Thanks for good luck wishes.
 

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Good aesthetic choice-it's a beautiful chain and sprocket. Motivated me to clean mine today tks.
 

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I think installing the oil temp gauge will help in maintaining consistent clutch operation on runs. Theoretically if you make each pass at the same oil temp the clutch should actuate exactly the same and do away with the sluggish shifting. I think the oil temp sensor is there specifically for the DCT to adjust and maintain a consistent clutch action from start up ambient temp 80 deg oil to where in the service manual states on page 12-81 under “Clutch Initialize Learning 1. Warm up the engine to the normal operating temperature (engine oil temperature: 50 - 110°C/122 - 230°F) .I had a coworker that had a Ford Fiesta with a PowerShift dual-clutch automatic with issues and I found an article that said that due to it being a dry clutch its erratic shifting could not be remedied due to the uncontrollable temp fluctuations of a dry clutch. I believe oil temp is critical to the consistent operation of the DCT. Like mzflorida I am interested in the tech side of the CTX DCT.
 
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