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not sure why there is a hang up on "Japanese" radiators and water pumps.
Most radiators in today's water cooled engines are aluminum with plastic parts as well.
The silicate free coolant was developed for aluminum radiators, not just the Honda ones.
Less than a 50/50 mix of water and coolant may sound intelligent but if it made sense, I believe you would see wide spread use of it.
True, but for years if you owned a Japanese vehicle you had to buy a special coolant that was compatible with aluminum. The Japanese standardized aluminum use for heating and cooling systems long before US and Euro manufacturers adopted it. At the time, copper was still abundant and Japan had to import it at great expense.
 

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Radiator coolant is covered very nicely in the owner's manual.

For the CTX700, per the owner's manual:

Cooling system capacity: 1.69 litres (1.79 US qt, 1.49 Imp qt)
Recommended coolant: Pro Honda HP Coolant

For less than the two quarts required, why not buy the Honda product from the dealer at a retail cost of approximately $8 per quart. And, since changing the coolant is required only every 3 years, it is probably the cheapest maintenance you will ever see on your bike at $.44 per month!


Further, the owner's manual states:

Concentration: 50% antifreeze and 50% distilled water

A concentration of antifreeze below 40% will
not provide proper corrosion and cold
temperature protection.


A concentration of up to 60% will provide
better protection in colder climates.

NOTICE
Using coolant not specified for aluminium engines or
ordinary tap water can cause corrosion.
 

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True, but for years if you owned a Japanese vehicle you had to buy a special coolant that was compatible with aluminum. The Japanese standardized aluminum use for heating and cooling systems long before US and Euro manufacturers adopted it. At the time, copper was still abundant and Japan had to import it at great expense.

actually use of aluminum radiators began in Western Europe.
Here is an interesting article

https://www.copper.org/environment/lifecycle/trends/auto_radiators.html
 

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CTX700DN 2014
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Just an update about coolant for motorcycles. The radiator is just a small part of aluminum to the system, the engine and other components are also aluminum. For your local stores, I have only found two products that qualify to work. One, was Peak, BUT, it was an old bottle, the only one they had left, It was the only one I saw anywhere, the newer version does not qualify! The other was an O'Reilly's brand universal 50/50. What your looking for is a coolant with Ethylene Glycol which most are, but the biggest thing is, it has to be Silicate & Phosphate Free, which most are not. It should say it clearly if it is, if not it is in the mixture. The reason for the requirement is cause motorcycle engines are made of aluminum along with the radiator(most radiators are aluminum anyway) and the common coolants are only ideal for standard iron block engines. Aluminum radiators on iron blocks are common to clog and is cause of the mixture. It is hard to create something that works well on most metals. The common mixture corrodes aluminum, not fast, but it does. The other option is to buy the factory stuff at a higher price.

PS, don't ever buy a coolant just cause it says cool or cold, it is just a marketing technique. The coolest fluid is 100% water, but as we all know water freezes and corrodes some metals. Thus the invention of coolant, best product all around.
Hi Rebel - I appreciate your shared knowledge of radiator coolant. I'm new to the Forum and have owned my CTX since this past August, just turning 8,500 miles this past week. I'm curious to hear your comments from another Forum member, who posted,
"Aluminum radiators require coolant that is compatible with and non-corrosive to aluminum.
I can't see a reason to change the coolant in your CTX unless you have 24000 mi. or more."
Just curious if you agree with this, or have other advice regarding frequency of completely changing out the coolant sooner than his suggestion...
Thank you
-Peterthepenguin
 

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My current car and a few before this one said the first coolant change was at 100,000 miles. No years given.
I'll change mine again when I do the valves.
Its the convenient time - do the valves - change the coolant - simple.
Dont care what the miles might be.

Second, almost all engines have aluminum some place on them.
So that has been going on for many years.

I'm guessing like oil / tires / filters / ect everyone has their thoughts and you wont be changing any of them on here.
LET the games begin!!
 
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