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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi fellow forum fan’s! I’m seeking advice from those of you who service your bike chains while using a center stand, lift, or other device… I have found a way to lift my bike, unorthodox as it might be, by lashing it to the garage wall and using a scissors jack lifting just below where the center stand would normally be. All appears quite safe and I have a half inch or so clearance under the tire and the chain lies loose so to speak. What I'm puzzled about is that the rear wheel does not freely move? I turned on the key which indicates the bike is in neutral. Now I do have the front tire choked with blocks and also have the brake engaged and this raises another question. Does having the brake on affect just the front tire/wheel, or the drive train itself? I’m turning 68 this month and servicing the chain as I'm trying to do would reduce a lot of hopping on, hopping off if you know what I’m talking about. Thank you for allowing me to share my dilemma, and I sure do appreciate any ideas, comments, or advice you may have! I'm aware of the safety precautions having a 500 lb. bike even just 1/2 inch off the ground in the rear, but please know I am totally focussed, trying to be safe as I possibly can, and would use something safer (and more expensive) if I could afford it. Thank you again. Peter the Penguin, Kalispell MT.
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Hi Peter,

As far as I know these bikes do not have linked brakes, so applying the front brake should have no effect on the rear brake.

Applying the brakes should only make the brake calipers squeeze the brake disks, it should have zero effect on your drive train.

If your bike was manual transmission I'd ask if you could turn the rear wheel when you squeeze in the clutch lever, because that would completely disengage the drive train.

If your bike is a DTC trasnmission, which from the looks of your photo above it may be, I'd wonder if your parking brake is on, that might be it.

Never trust a neutral light, it's just a light. Did the bike actually roll freely in neutral before you put it on the center stand?

-Sloppy
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Peter,

As far as I know these bikes do not have linked brakes, so applying the front brake should have no effect on the rear brake.

Applying the brakes should only make the brake calipers squeeze the brake disks, it should have zero effect on your drive train.

If your bike was manual transmission I'd ask if you could turn the rear wheel when you squeeze in the clutch lever, because that would completely disengage the drive train.

If your bike is a DTC trasnmission, which from the looks of your photo above it may be, I'd wonder if your parking brake is on, that might be it.

Never trust a neutral light, it's just a light. Did the bike actually roll freely in neutral before you put it on the center stand?

-Sloppy
Yo Sloppy- Cheers for getting back. I think I've nailed the problem when someone pointed out to me that the brake-lock affects the rear wheel, not the front as I had assumed... There it was on page 30 (or thereabouts) in the owners manual where it states this... My bad, I should have done my homework better.
Take care, and keep the rubber side down
Peter - Kalispell, Montana
 

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I bought a chock from Harbor freight for $60, I lift my bike at the same point as you, it works great for chain service. I know you said you could not afford any expensive tools for this but I wanted to let you know that some on this Forum have made a chock out of wood. This chock should be inexpensive to make, perhaps lumber scraps could be had for the asking at a construction site, your only cost would be fasteners and hardware. Search "home made chock" here or just any online search should deliver plenty of ideas. The reason I like my chock is because the bike is standing straight up, I try to level the 2 wheels and check the oil while I have it jacked up. Happy birthday, I beat you to 68 by just a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I bought a chock from Harbor freight for $60, I lift my bike at the same point as you, it works great for chain service. I know you said you could not afford any expensive tools for this but I wanted to let you know that some on this Forum have made a chock out of wood. This chock should be inexpensive to make, perhaps lumber scraps could be had for the asking at a construction site, your only cost would be fasteners and hardware. Search "home made chock" here or just any online search should deliver plenty of ideas. The reason I like my chock is because the bike is standing straight up, I try to level the 2 wheels and check the oil while I have it jacked up. Happy birthday, I beat you to 68 by just a few days.
Ha, Happy birthday back at ya 2fer! I saw the plans for the wood DIY chock, but before I consider making all that, could you please send me the link for the exact chock you bought via Harbor Freight? It could be the answer for me also, and would give me more room to work (with my bike 'lashed' to the wall, I can only get at the 'chain side.)' Thank you for considering, and many happy returns of the day!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like the look of this chock Dave, thank you very much for sharing! I ended up getting the harbor freight wheel stand for just under 25.00 which consists of two rollers etc. if you've seen it? I've tried it out and I think that's what I'll roll with for now but the price of that chock is certainly great value as well!
Peter - Kalispell, Montana
 

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Ha, Happy birthday back at ya 2fer! I saw the plans for the wood DIY chock, but before I consider making all that, could you please send me the link for the exact chock you bought via Harbor Freight? It could be the answer for me also, and would give me more room to work (with my bike 'lashed' to the wall, I can only get at the 'chain side.)' Thank you for considering, and many happy returns of the day!!
I cant seem to send the link. The chock I have is the Pittsburgh 1,800 Lb. Motorcycle stand/chock. Listed today for $62.99, I hope you can get the 20% discount. Sorry for the delay answering, ive been out a while.
 
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