I recently noticed my chain touching the center stand, checked chain slack (while on side stand) and found it 1.5". I researched chain adjustment and decided it would be easiest to adjust on the center stand, so put it on center stand, rotated wheel until tightest section of chain was centered on the bottom, then used adjuster nuts rotating one flat at a time until slack measured 1.5" on the center stand. I checked alignment by using a digital caliper depth tool to measure distance from adjuster nut to end of adjustment bolt on each side. I torqued the axle nut to 72 ft-lb, then took the bike off the center stand (keeping same section of chain on the bottom) to verify chain slack measurement, which was now 1 1/8" while on the side stand. The alignment marking with the arrow is now beyond the back of the alignment window and presumably in the red zone. On my bike, the back of the alignment marking window lines up in the green section, very close to red (see attached photo). I went ahead and ordered new chain (520, 112 links) and sprockets (16T & 39 T) for DCT model. My bike has 11,000 miles (6000 from original owner and 5000 from me). I assume the chain is original OEM and sprockets still look good. I had read that the most precise way to measure chain stretch is to measure distance between 16 pins and that chain is ok until distance for 520 chain exceeds 256.5mm. I measured my chain and the distance between 16 pins is 240 mm. Is the red zone normally outside the alignment mark window? I'm wondering why I show end of life with the arrow in the red zone but still good with distance between 16 pins. I'll count number of links tomorrow to be sure I have 112 currently installed and take measurements between 16 pins on other sections of chain as I did notice some variations in slackness in different sections of chain.
rmbaizan
Chain Adjustment Calibration Markings
1 reading
I recently noticed my chain touching the center stand, checked chain slack (while on side stand) and found it 1.5". I researched chain adjustment and decided it would be easiest to adjust on the center stand, so put it on center stand, rotated wheel until tightest section of chain was centered on the bottom, then used adjuster nuts rotating one flat at a time until slack measured 1.5" on the center stand. I checked alignment by using a digital caliper depth tool to measure distance from adjuster nut to end of adjustment bolt on each side. I torqued the axle nut to 72 ft-lb, then took the bike off the center stand (keeping same section of chain on the bottom) to verify chain slack measurement, which was now 1 1/8" while on the side stand. The alignment marking with the arrow is now beyond the back of the alignment window and presumably in the red zone. On my bike, the back of the alignment marking window lines up in the green section, very close to red (see attached photo). I went ahead and ordered new chain (520, 112 links) and sprockets (16T & 39 T) for DCT model. My bike has 11,000 miles (6000 from original owner and 5000 from me). I assume the chain is original OEM and sprockets still look good. I had read that the most precise way to measure chain stretch is to measure distance between 16 pins and that chain is ok until distance for 520 chain exceeds 256.5mm. I measured my chain and the distance between 16 pins is 240 mm. Is the red zone normally outside the alignment mark window? I'm wondering why I show end of life with the arrow in the red zone but still good with distance between 16 pins. I'll count number of links tomorrow to be sure I have 112 currently installed and take measurements between 16 pins on other sections of chain as I did notice some variations in slackness in different sections of chain.
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