Hey all; Received my center stand and factory stopper from Webike and installed it today. Fairly simple other than the large spring was a bugger. The problem is that there is no way that bike will ever go upon that stand. Even after running the rear tire upon an inch board it didn't come close. The stand is just to long. I did run the front tire upon a bank and got the stand down. My advice is , don't waste your money on the center stand and don't believe everything you read on this forum. I have a 32 in. inseam ,185 lbs. so no my legs are not to short.
Center stand; a joke
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6,250 Posts
The NC700S & NC700X are the same. The NC700 frame is about 2 inches taller from the ground then the CTX~
You can trim the legs down to be more usable. I would suggest making floor plates for each leg too if you do that. Between that, costly, bulky, the stand stop issues and extra weight, I personally wouldn't want the trouble of a center stand anyhow. I use spools, they are cheaper, lighter and cleaner.
You can trim the legs down to be more usable. I would suggest making floor plates for each leg too if you do that. Between that, costly, bulky, the stand stop issues and extra weight, I personally wouldn't want the trouble of a center stand anyhow. I use spools, they are cheaper, lighter and cleaner.
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975 Posts
I've got a rear paddock stand from Cycle Gear. It's on sale this month online for $49; regular $109. Cycle Gear runs this sale often. It doesn't look like free shipping is available on this item, but if you live near a Cycle Gear store, and they've got them for sale in the stores (they usually do), you can get it for that price.
I highly recommend this stand for those who want to go on the cheap without sacrificing quality. It's a one-piece, very strong stand. Probably not as strong as the Pit bull stand but as strong as it needs to be for long, durable, trouble-free, easy-to-use service. It has a long handle and lifting is quite easy, even without help.
I've also got the front stand. It's good too but the handle is not as long, and it requires more grunt to lift the front than it does for the rear. However, I don't use the front stand often, because I can pretty much clean the front wheel, the underneath area in the front, and check the front brake without lifting the front, but I have used it a few times and both stands work well together although the bike can freely roll when up on both stands, so one has to be careful about slopes, wrenching, etc. when it's all the way up off the bike wheels. It has to be chocked if working on it while on the stand wheels.
The only negatives I find with the rear paddock stand are:
(1)The end plastic pieces on the handle won't stay on. If you want to keep them without constantly picking them up out of the driveway, you'll have to glue or tape them on. These end pieces are only cosmetic though and have no function other than to keeping the stand from scratching someone or some thing if it accidentally comes in contact with the stand ends.
(2)If you use it without spools, one has to figure out the sweet spot to place the lifting pads. If you're adjusting chain slack, you have to make sure you get the pads forward of swing arm adjustment area; but, on the other hand, if you put the pads as far forward as possible when you lift it, when you put the bike down off the stand, it'll bend the sh** out of your license plate. This is one thing that would make spools come in handy. Easier and quicker and less fore thought to lift the rear wheel with spools. No chance of one of the pads not being flat when raising. I've never had a problem, but if you're not looking when you raise it, and one of the pads is cocked at a 45 angle, instead of a 0 angle, it could cause the bike to tip; whereas spools would make this simple. Just one quick look to make sure the stand has hooked the spools, and you're ready to lift.
Due to the CTX's low CG, it's very easy to use it with a rear stand. I just make sure the front wheel is straight and that I've got the bike in a fairly-level, unbroken paved or concreted area; place a piece small piece of 2X6 under the side stand and make sure its still got a slight lean to the left. Since the bike has such a low CG, it does not want to tip over very easily, so one can get it almost straight up and down and still be safe. I'll put the side stand on the 2X6 and then just keep my hand on the bike to make sure it's not going anywhere while I walk around to the rear. Once at the rear of the bike, I'll put the stand in place letting the pads sit in the spot where I want them to lift the bike. I'll then grab the right grab handle from the rear, tilt the bike until both pads are in contact with the swing arm; grab the lifting handle and pull down all the way. Very, very easy once it's done once or twice.
If you choose the rear paddock stand, make sure you pick the one that is Cycle Gear's Trackside Rear Paddock stand; not the one listed as simply Trackside Rear stand. What you want is the stand that is regular $109; not the one that has a regular price of $79. The cheaper one is multi piece and is a piece of crap with a short handle with not enough leverage or strength to make it a good stand for this bike.
Get this one:
TRACKSIDE - Rear Paddock Stand - Rear Stands - Stands - Accessories - CycleGear - Cycle Gear
Not this one:
TRACKSIDE - Rear Stand - Rear Stands - Stands - Accessories - CycleGear - Cycle Gear
One question I've got from others who may know. It's mentioned that spools + a stand is cheaper than a center stand but what's been posted on here for spools, if I remember correctly, is like $160 just for the spools and kit to mount them. Is there a cheaper spool alternative? I want spools, but I don't want them that much.
I highly recommend this stand for those who want to go on the cheap without sacrificing quality. It's a one-piece, very strong stand. Probably not as strong as the Pit bull stand but as strong as it needs to be for long, durable, trouble-free, easy-to-use service. It has a long handle and lifting is quite easy, even without help.
I've also got the front stand. It's good too but the handle is not as long, and it requires more grunt to lift the front than it does for the rear. However, I don't use the front stand often, because I can pretty much clean the front wheel, the underneath area in the front, and check the front brake without lifting the front, but I have used it a few times and both stands work well together although the bike can freely roll when up on both stands, so one has to be careful about slopes, wrenching, etc. when it's all the way up off the bike wheels. It has to be chocked if working on it while on the stand wheels.
The only negatives I find with the rear paddock stand are:
(1)The end plastic pieces on the handle won't stay on. If you want to keep them without constantly picking them up out of the driveway, you'll have to glue or tape them on. These end pieces are only cosmetic though and have no function other than to keeping the stand from scratching someone or some thing if it accidentally comes in contact with the stand ends.
(2)If you use it without spools, one has to figure out the sweet spot to place the lifting pads. If you're adjusting chain slack, you have to make sure you get the pads forward of swing arm adjustment area; but, on the other hand, if you put the pads as far forward as possible when you lift it, when you put the bike down off the stand, it'll bend the sh** out of your license plate. This is one thing that would make spools come in handy. Easier and quicker and less fore thought to lift the rear wheel with spools. No chance of one of the pads not being flat when raising. I've never had a problem, but if you're not looking when you raise it, and one of the pads is cocked at a 45 angle, instead of a 0 angle, it could cause the bike to tip; whereas spools would make this simple. Just one quick look to make sure the stand has hooked the spools, and you're ready to lift.
Due to the CTX's low CG, it's very easy to use it with a rear stand. I just make sure the front wheel is straight and that I've got the bike in a fairly-level, unbroken paved or concreted area; place a piece small piece of 2X6 under the side stand and make sure its still got a slight lean to the left. Since the bike has such a low CG, it does not want to tip over very easily, so one can get it almost straight up and down and still be safe. I'll put the side stand on the 2X6 and then just keep my hand on the bike to make sure it's not going anywhere while I walk around to the rear. Once at the rear of the bike, I'll put the stand in place letting the pads sit in the spot where I want them to lift the bike. I'll then grab the right grab handle from the rear, tilt the bike until both pads are in contact with the swing arm; grab the lifting handle and pull down all the way. Very, very easy once it's done once or twice.
If you choose the rear paddock stand, make sure you pick the one that is Cycle Gear's Trackside Rear Paddock stand; not the one listed as simply Trackside Rear stand. What you want is the stand that is regular $109; not the one that has a regular price of $79. The cheaper one is multi piece and is a piece of crap with a short handle with not enough leverage or strength to make it a good stand for this bike.
Get this one:
TRACKSIDE - Rear Paddock Stand - Rear Stands - Stands - Accessories - CycleGear - Cycle Gear
Not this one:
TRACKSIDE - Rear Stand - Rear Stands - Stands - Accessories - CycleGear - Cycle Gear
One question I've got from others who may know. It's mentioned that spools + a stand is cheaper than a center stand but what's been posted on here for spools, if I remember correctly, is like $160 just for the spools and kit to mount them. Is there a cheaper spool alternative? I want spools, but I don't want them that much.
I thought I read that you adjust the chain while bike is on side stand? It would have different results on the center stand and the shocks/swing arm just hanging there.
If you do adjust chain with wheel just hanging there, you should recheck the tension with the bikes weight on the rear end. And rotate the wheel to get an average tension. These things are not always just perfect...the shocks will be over extended a bit or at full out extension (unloaded) This post could also go inthe chain posts.
The center stand works just fine for me, lots easier than putting a wing or Valkyrie up.. Same theory, use your weight to push down on the stand as you lift up on the rear pass handles, not an Olympic weight lifting event.
If you do adjust chain with wheel just hanging there, you should recheck the tension with the bikes weight on the rear end. And rotate the wheel to get an average tension. These things are not always just perfect...the shocks will be over extended a bit or at full out extension (unloaded) This post could also go inthe chain posts.
The center stand works just fine for me, lots easier than putting a wing or Valkyrie up.. Same theory, use your weight to push down on the stand as you lift up on the rear pass handles, not an Olympic weight lifting event.
I think our problem with the center stand has more to do with whether we have the correct stand or not. I'm having to drive my front tire up onto a car ramp just to get the stand at the proper angle to grab the ground sufficiently to be able to raise the bike. Once the stand is down the ramp easily slides out from under the front tire. I tried to raise the rear using a 4x4 but this still wasn't tall enough to get the stand to grab using all of my 215 lbs. I've been riding for 46 years using a center stand and I feel pretty accomplished at getting a bike up on a stand.
Thanks for the replies on the center stand issue. This evening I tried jacking the bike up with my 50's era scissor jack so I could get the center stand extended to get a measurement so I could cut a section of the legs out and then weld it back together. With the jack fully extended the stand legs would stll not get under the bike. With the specs being off this much I decided to just remove the stand. The large spring comes off a lot easier than it went on,with the help of some vise grips. Maybe later Honda will come out with a stand made specifically for the CTX700. I now think my money should have went for the CEEBAILEY 23 in. windscreen to replace the OEM tall Honda. O well, on to the next project. The forum has been much help in the installation of the accessories.
When I adjust my chain with the rear wheel off the ground I allow a little extra slack for my weight when the bike is on the ground. I have found that the Ctx has a stiffer suspension than some of the other bikes, therefore I allow less slack. Riders weight and suspensions vary, so I guess you would have to go with whats best for each individual situation. Armadillo you are aheck of a lot more man than me to get that CTX on that stand.
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185 Posts
This is true, which means there is no way the NC700's necessarily longer center stand could work on the CTX.
Is there a shorter center stand made specifically for the CTX?
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892 Posts
Problem getting up? You should have no problem getting that bike on the center stand. I'm 62 and only 175lbs. It is a matter of stepping your foot on the stand and level the bike first, put your right hand down with palm up under something solid (I use the saddlebag support), left hand on the handlebar, push down with your foot while pulling up with your hand. The stand really does work for this bike (without using a lift).
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1,030 Posts
I would say that your response is pretty harsh, several including myself have the stand and it works exceptionally. Seems YOUR problem is the incorrect stand, nothing to do with what has been posted on the forum...........IT DOES WORK
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795 Posts
There are plenty of internet sites that have schematic part diagrams and lists for the NC700X. If your part number is that, it is wrong. Pretty simple.
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1,030 Posts
Did they correct the problem for you? I would be happy to give you a measurement for comparison.
My stand has the S part# and the packaging also lists the S part#. I've compared it to the X stand. Same size. I just blew it off until someone else mentioned it on the forum. Its just as easy to drive up on a ramp and lower it than it is to take it off and it does serve a purpose. Doesn't help with road maintenance though. I will eventually get it cut down.
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