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2014 Honda CTX700ND
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I have a 2014 CTX700ND. I replaced my original battery with a Yuasa YTZ12s in late February 2019. Took it on a 300 mile trip about a month ago with no issues...and no prior issues. Also, use a battery tender, when not in use.
Yesterday, I hopped on and all the starter button did was "click." But, it would not start.
Checked to make sure it was not user error, i.e. kill switch, etc.
I waited 6 hours, then, tried again. It started 3 times in a row. But, didn't try to ride it.
I tried again this morning. Started 3 times in a row. Then, wouldn't start on the 4th try or after that. I've continued to try starting all day today, but, still only get the "click."
I find it hard to believe it's a battery issue at 3 and a half years old?
The oil light remained on, but, I think that is because the engine didn't start, not an oil pressure issue.
I'm kinda stumped. Any insight from the community would be appreciated.
As a footnote, I'm not mechanically inclined, (looking for a blown fuse, etc.) but, get my bike serviced every year before the riding season starts.
Thanks for your help.
 

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starter relay failing? check voltage across battery terminals when cranking. If it doesn't drop, jumper the relay.
 

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2014 manual, naked version,Corbin, Bodis exhaust,factory bags, MRA windscreen, center stand
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The batteries in mine have failed every 3years. I've found when the starter just clicks you better replace it pronto. Or you will be walking. The first time I was lucky enough to be on the top of a hill and was able to coast downhill and pop the clutch. You DCT owners don't have that option.
 

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2014 CTX 700 DCT
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After happening twice in the past 4 years, when I hear the click sound, I replace the battery and that has solved the problem. My last battery lasted a little over 3 years (Moto Classic YTZ14-12S).
 

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Start with the basics. Check all of the circuit connections. Check that the battery terminals are tight and have no corrosion. I always start testing with a good fully charged battery. If you suspect the battery take it fully charged to AutoZone, Discount Auto, Batteries Plus and they can do a capacity test on for free. “When you test for capacity, you're looking at the battery's ability to deliver a specified amount of current at a constant rate to a specified end voltage for a specified time”. Download the service manual and follow chapter 6. If you have a volt meter step 4 of the link is a simple load test. Rule of thumb is “A good battery should not drop below 9.6 volts over 10 seconds or so”. Good luck with the repair.
http://www.greenknights36.com/html/files/Pictures/Temp/ServiceManual.pdf
How to test a motorcycle battery - RevZilla
 

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2015 CTX700
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+1 on the battery. The battery that came with my CTX lasted about 5 years, which is the most I've ever gotten. Most of mine last 3, maybe 4. Sometimes as little as 2 if you get the cheap batteries.

Also check your grounding cables for corrosion.
 

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I missed where the battery was replaced in 2019....

That said, basic no start troubleshooting always starts with a voltmeter across the battery. Tells you everything you need to know in less than a minute.
 

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2014 Honda CTX700ND
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
starter relay failing? check voltage across battery terminals when cranking. If it doesn't drop, jumper the relay.
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starter relay failing? check voltage across battery terminals when cranking. If it doesn't drop, jumper the relay.
I bought this when I replaced my battery in 2019 to monitor it besides my battery tender. It's the same brand as my battery tender and was showing 13.0v - 12.8v range. But, I guess this can't be trusted for accuracy.
 

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I bought this when I replaced my battery in 2019 to monitor it besides my battery tender. It's the same brand as my battery tender and was showing 13.0v - 12.8v range. But, I guess this can't be trusted for accuracy.
I dont see why not. What does it read when you attempt to crank and get the click?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I dont see why not. What does it read when you attempt to crank and get the click?
I just did it now. Took off the battery tender and it read 12.9v.
Then, tried to start it, it read 2.1v, then again 1.9v.
So, I guess then it is the battery? I always thought the correct voltage was when the bike was off. Guess I learned something new.
Thank you.
 

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Yep. Dead battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
One last footnote....should I get another Yuasa battery or is there a better option?
My mechanic swears by them last time, but I'm not fond of it lasting only 3 1/2 years at that premium price. Thanks.
 

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Seems to be the luck of the draw. I am still on the original from 2014, but I'm sure my time is coming.

I am probably going to go against conventional wisdom and look at a lighter weight alternative.
 

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+1 on getting the extra capacity.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Consider purchasing a YTZ14S. Same size as the YTZ12S, but more capacity. Stick with Yuasa, most will last 5 years. Make sure you have a pulse charger if it’s not your daily driver.
Thanks, I will look into it. I have always used this battery tender from day one. My mechanic said these are good, but, you can never tell when the tender goes bad. It will still show a green light...
 

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