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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This was my 600 mile oil change. Warranty is still valid if I do this (see page 137 of owners manual).

Gather what you need.
I started with clean oil pan, rags, and spray bottle of soapy water.
1 oil filter
1 gallon of oil or 4 quarts
a long narrow funnel (got mile from Harley shop, really handy)
a hammer and long flat nose chisel (for first change)
a long straight 3/8 extension and 12mm socket and ratchet.
a ft pound torgue wrench (about 15.00 at Harbor freight)

If you warm it up like they say in the manual, you may burn your fingers getting the filter off as it is very close to the catalytic converter which holds it's heat longer than the normal pipe. For my first 600 mile change I rode it for 20 miles and dropped the oil within 1 minute parking it in my garage to maximize getting any particles from the new crankcase. I will not do that next time. Nothing unusual or large particles found in the old oil

Steps were basically this based on the owners manual and experience.
1. park on level floor using side stand
2. take 12 mm socket and straight extension and remove the drain plug and it's washer. Beware hot oil so that is why I liked the long extension. It comes out pretty fast so have pan ready.
3. while draining, remove the filler plug.
4. if you have a clean floor, lay on it to make getting to filter easier on the right side. No cowling has to come off. The word has it that all factory installed filters are very tight. Most riders just drive a screwdriver through it and twist it loose. I choose to use a hammer and long punch and placed the punch on the lip of the filter ( not the motor housing) and tapped it loose.
5. I wiped the area, used my finger with a little oil on it to lube the o-ring on the new filter and screwed it on. The manual states the torgue for it but I had no wrench available (my snap-on needs repaired). So I used a plastic filter cap wrench to twist it on tighter than I could do it by hand.
6. Wipe clean and install the drain plug with washer. Torgue as manual says.
7. Remove 12.8 oz from gallon (or from 1 qt container). that is .4 qt that should not go into bike. That leaves 3.6 quarts to go into it.
8. Use long funnel and Pour in at least 3 full quarts and put in filler plug.
9. start motor and verify oil light goes out. run it about 30 seconds
10. Remove filler plug and add the rest of the oil.
11. Check oil one final time with dip stick and with bike upright. should be at top mark. (book says not to screw it in to check)
12. Wipe underside of motor and pipe of any remaining oil film.

you are done except for dealing with old oil and mess made doing the job.

Note: if you have a DCT there is another oil filter that these notes do not apply to. (pointed out after posting. thanks guys).

This took me about 1.5 hours as I took my time since it was the first for me and the CTX and the oil filter took longer to get off too. Next one should be less than 45 minutes. I have the service manual on order and I will have a working torgue wrench for the next oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ps: I was in Walmart last night and that long narrow funnel they have for 97 cents. The right size to stick in filler hole and it stays there.
 
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Good stuff Bill. I've saved this thread, as I'll need it as a reference only a couple of weeks after I take delivery of my new bike. The big question for me is how long I'm going to have to wait on a CTX700, standard, in red.
 

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Anything special about the Oil Filter? Is it something you have to get from the dealer or is it available aftermarket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Anything special about the Oil Filter? Is it something you have to get from the dealer or is it available aftermarket?
I got my first one from Honda dealer. But I am going to switch next time to the K&N -204 because it has a nut on the end to make getting off easier and easier to torque it down to the specs of 19ft pounds.

Note. the drain plug has a soft washer (aluminum I think) that should be replaced from time to time. Manual infers each time but I will get a couple to have around. Can't be too expensive for added insurance to not have the plug fall out...lol
 

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DCT models have a second clutch oil filter that needs replacing at initial 600mi service and every other oil change after. Its a cartridge type that lives behind the the small cover on the right side of the engine.
 

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DCT models have a second clutch oil filter that needs replacing at initial 600mi service and every other oil change after. Its a cartridge type that lives behind the the small cover on the right side of the engine.
Very important!!!!.. Thanks
 

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Completed the 600 mile oil service on my bike this week. Changed both the oil filter and DCT filter. Fairings came off easy enough (I have the naked version). Used a oil filter cap wrench I have used on previous bikes - oil filter came off easily. Used all Honda specific filters and 10W-30 synthetic mc oil (what manual call for - although I'm sure 10W-40 would not be a problem).

DCT filter was a little bit of trouble. I had read this could be so on the NC700 forum so was prepared. The DCT filter is hard to get out of its housing, perhaps from oil surface tension. I used a set of snap ring pliers to "grip" the spring depression on the inside of filter to get it to come out. My needle nose pliers just didn't cut it. Easy enough.

Nothing anyone shouldn't be able to do themselves with basic tools. I used a 5mm allen wrench and phillips screwdriver to remove fairings, an 8mm socket for the DCT filter cover, and 12mm socket for the oil drain plug - an extension helps keep away from the hot exhaust parts.
 

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After you think all the oil has drained out, lean it as far over to the right as you're comfortable with for as many seconds as you can hold it; then back over on the kick stand.

Watch how much more oil drains out...
 

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Has anyone gotten a magnetic oil drain plug? It says it's a 12x15 drain bolt on the parts page. (Does anyone know if the thread pitch is 1.5?)

Also, the owner manual recommends putting on a new rubber seal on the oil filer and a new sealing washer on the drain bolt. Do you guys do that?

Thanks for the write up. This is helpful.
 

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The oil filter rubber seal is integral with the filter. If you put another one on you will have your very own Exxon Valdeez.
 
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The oil filter rubber seal is integral with the filter. If you put another one on you will have your very own Exxon Valdeez.
I reread the owner manual and now I see that. Thanks.

But, do you know if the drain bolt (12 x 15) has a thread pitch of 1.5? (It just says 12x15 on the parts pages, but I can't find the thread pitch). I want to get a magnetic drain bolt for my bike and want to get the correct one. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The oil filter rubber seal is integral with the filter. If you put another one on you will have your very own Exxon Valdeez.

I think she was referring to the DCT filter as it has it's own O-ring seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I reread the owner manual and now I see that. Thanks.

But, do you know if the drain bolt (12 x 15) has a thread pitch of 1.5? (It just says 12x15 on the parts pages, but I can't find the thread pitch). I want to get a magnetic drain bolt for my bike and want to get the correct one. Thanks.

I do not know the thread but I think if you search EBAY for the NC700X model since it has been out much longer you might find one there. They would be the same. I don't think I will bother with one myself. The drain plug washer I did buy one and plan to use a new one about every other oil change unless I see some oil residue around the plug then I will use a new one sooner. I use a torque wrench to put it on with.
 

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I do not know the thread but I think if you search EBAY for the NC700X model since it has been out much longer you might find one there. They would be the same. I don't think I will bother with one myself. The drain plug washer I did buy one and plan to use a new one about every other oil change unless I see some oil residue around the plug then I will use a new one sooner. I use a torque wrench to put it on with.
Good idea. I'll try that.

Edit: I found one. It is a 1.5 thread pitch. Thanks.
 

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Ebay has a 2 pk of OEM filters still in the Honda plastic seals for $10 and change for both. I didn't check on the shipping charge. These are the auto filters; not the MC versions. They are a little longer but otherwise identical.
 

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Got my 600 mile oil/filter change last night. Went pretty well, the clutch filter was a bit of work. A little dribbled out and I apparently missed getting it all wiped out. Had a bit of spray on the exhaust cover. When it cools off I will wipe off and hope it doesn't leave a stain.

BTW, priced the clutch filter at another nice dealer, they show list price @13.99, I paid 9.99 minus my discount at local dealer. Same honda part, two different list prices. ??. So, shop arround, I will get another and store at the lower price. Just a heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
after an oil change I always roll my bikes out to the curb and spray the area with a biodegradable soap I keep in a spay bottle (got a gallon of it at Walmart and mix it about 50-50), then hose it off after a minute. If left on too long it will leave streeks. It also works well on the garage floor for clean up.

It's hard not to get oil on things and best to clean it off before running the bike.
 

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I did my own oil change (including transmission filter) and also experienced a little bit of oil that dribbled onto the plastic muffler shield. No big deal. I cleaned it thoroughly and have had no issues since. I would have let the dealer do the first service, but after problems with the ABS brake recall, decided to do it myself. Easy to do for a DIY.
 
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