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I assume you have verified the battery voltage is in normal range.
 

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Wouldn’t hurt to load test the battery to scratch it off the list of suspects. Batteries + and auto parts stores will do a capacitance test for free. Then email MC back the results. They might be more inclined to work through the issue with you if they see you will listen to them and follow their advice. “Rolling to a stop, hear a clunk - and while no indication on the dash, the DCT has shifted into 2nd”. This makes me think it is not a mechanical problem. Sounds like the computer is confused, possibly because it is not getting the proper or an erratic speed signal. Something commanded the computer to shift to 2nd at the wrong speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Good points.

Battery starts the bike fine - is kept on a tender - shows 12.93VDC at rest.

I'll check with the local Batteries Plus later today.

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
McCruise has punted.

I suspect it was something I did in trying to make the connection - the connectors and wires are tight in there.

I have to leave town for a few weeks, and when I get back, I'll remove the plastic, and with my volt meter in hand, go through the manual prescribed troubleshooting steps.

And I ordered a code reader off eBay - hope that comes in while I'm away, and hope the bike helps me narrow down the troubleshooting.
 

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Took the bike out - per usual, started - it was in neutral - pushed "D" and that registered on the display.

Selected "M" and the "D" on the display disappeared.

As soon as I started rolling, however; the "1" gear indicator became "--" and no response to any DCT function.

When I rolled to a stop [this is the other peculiar aspect of this anomalous behavior] it clunks, shifting to 2nd.

Turn the bike off, and back on, in the DCT returns to neutral.
While I do not have the engineering/technical training to offer repair advice...Plz allow me to ask about & comment on: (for educational puposes)..."turn it back on, & turn on the stop switch" ("kill switch"?)..."hear the clunking of the DCT trying to return to neutral"...and "Turn the bike off, and back on, in the DCT returns to neutral".
Question: Has your bike been usually/normally shut off, in gear, using the "kill" switch or ignition switch, rather than using Honda's specified shut off procedure for DCT? (shift to neutral BEFORE shut off, w/ignition switch, page 34)
For many of us, this procedure is either not known or disregarded as unnecessary, often due to past habits with our manual shift bikes.
As I have posted elsewhere, I believe that Honda's instruction may avoid possible shifting malfunctions caused by repeatedly shutting the bike off, in gear, & when the ignition is turned back on, forcing the necessary automatic transmission/clutch function of searching & shifting into neutral without the benefit of any oil lubrication because the engine & oil pump are not yet operating.
Good luck, (maybe the loose shifting "pin/Bolt" issue?) Plz keep us posted.:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #28
That procedure was unknown to me before paying more attention during this challenge, and your mention making it "click" for me. THANK YOU.

Most certainly will update this thread as for called.

I expect to be away from the bike for several weeks upcoming. When I return, I expect to have access to a code reader for the bike, and will start from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Code reader off eBay is worthless - will NOT connect to the bike.

Anyone know of a reader that works for the DIYer ?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yep, saw that. Just, I'm used to having access to a vehicle's available diagnostics - I have a reader for our Volkswagen, our BOLT EV, our Mini, our Triumph Rocket III. I expect to be able to talk to the Honda - particularly as it is acting up.
 

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I could never find a way to buy a Honda MCS code reader and I have seen prices referenced on websites as much as $2400 for it. Healtech makes an OBD reader. The Honda CTX DCT comes up under compatibility. I am not familiar with it as to whether it will give you the information you’re looking for. Do the research first. Using the service connector to read the codes should be enough. If a sensor throws a code it could be due to the failure of another part that allows it to do its job. Chasing codes can be costly so use them as a small part of your overall diagnosis. The bike ran fine then you plugged in the cruise and now it doesn’t. I would reverse what you did putting the bike back to the condition it was in when it ran right and diagnose from there.
OBD Tool (OBD) - HealTech Electronics Ltd.
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I attempted to use what i believe are the 2 wires for a cruise control system as my accessory power for a stereo i installed, I quickly realized this would not work when my stereo tripped a fuse, and my transmission initially locked in 1st gear and wouldnt shift, luckily the bike stayed running long enough for me to get back to my home, then it wouldn't turn on at all after turning off.....I disconnected wires used, and replaced the 6amp fuse, no problems since.....check your fuses obviously, and retrace the cruise install steps.

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