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I assume you have verified the battery voltage is in normal range.
 
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Wouldn’t hurt to load test the battery to scratch it off the list of suspects. Batteries + and auto parts stores will do a capacitance test for free. Then email MC back the results. They might be more inclined to work through the issue with you if they see you will listen to them and follow their advice. “Rolling to a stop, hear a clunk - and while no indication on the dash, the DCT has shifted into 2nd”. This makes me think it is not a mechanical problem. Sounds like the computer is confused, possibly because it is not getting the proper or an erratic speed signal. Something commanded the computer to shift to 2nd at the wrong speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Good points.

Battery starts the bike fine - is kept on a tender - shows 12.93VDC at rest.

I'll check with the local Batteries Plus later today.

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
McCruise has punted.

I suspect it was something I did in trying to make the connection - the connectors and wires are tight in there.

I have to leave town for a few weeks, and when I get back, I'll remove the plastic, and with my volt meter in hand, go through the manual prescribed troubleshooting steps.

And I ordered a code reader off eBay - hope that comes in while I'm away, and hope the bike helps me narrow down the troubleshooting.
 

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Took the bike out - per usual, started - it was in neutral - pushed "D" and that registered on the display.

Selected "M" and the "D" on the display disappeared.

As soon as I started rolling, however; the "1" gear indicator became "--" and no response to any DCT function.

When I rolled to a stop [this is the other peculiar aspect of this anomalous behavior] it clunks, shifting to 2nd.

Turn the bike off, and back on, in the DCT returns to neutral.
While I do not have the engineering/technical training to offer repair advice...Plz allow me to ask about & comment on: (for educational puposes)..."turn it back on, & turn on the stop switch" ("kill switch"?)..."hear the clunking of the DCT trying to return to neutral"...and "Turn the bike off, and back on, in the DCT returns to neutral".
Question: Has your bike been usually/normally shut off, in gear, using the "kill" switch or ignition switch, rather than using Honda's specified shut off procedure for DCT? (shift to neutral BEFORE shut off, w/ignition switch, page 34)
For many of us, this procedure is either not known or disregarded as unnecessary, often due to past habits with our manual shift bikes.
As I have posted elsewhere, I believe that Honda's instruction may avoid possible shifting malfunctions caused by repeatedly shutting the bike off, in gear, & when the ignition is turned back on, forcing the necessary automatic transmission/clutch function of searching & shifting into neutral without the benefit of any oil lubrication because the engine & oil pump are not yet operating.
Good luck, (maybe the loose shifting "pin/Bolt" issue?) Plz keep us posted.:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
That procedure was unknown to me before paying more attention during this challenge, and your mention making it "click" for me. THANK YOU.

Most certainly will update this thread as for called.

I expect to be away from the bike for several weeks upcoming. When I return, I expect to have access to a code reader for the bike, and will start from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Code reader off eBay is worthless - will NOT connect to the bike.

Anyone know of a reader that works for the DIYer ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Yep, saw that. Just, I'm used to having access to a vehicle's available diagnostics - I have a reader for our Volkswagen, our BOLT EV, our Mini, our Triumph Rocket III. I expect to be able to talk to the Honda - particularly as it is acting up.
 

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I could never find a way to buy a Honda MCS code reader and I have seen prices referenced on websites as much as $2400 for it. Healtech makes an OBD reader. The Honda CTX DCT comes up under compatibility. I am not familiar with it as to whether it will give you the information you’re looking for. Do the research first. Using the service connector to read the codes should be enough. If a sensor throws a code it could be due to the failure of another part that allows it to do its job. Chasing codes can be costly so use them as a small part of your overall diagnosis. The bike ran fine then you plugged in the cruise and now it doesn’t. I would reverse what you did putting the bike back to the condition it was in when it ran right and diagnose from there.
OBD Tool (OBD) - HealTech Electronics Ltd.
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I attempted to use what i believe are the 2 wires for a cruise control system as my accessory power for a stereo i installed, I quickly realized this would not work when my stereo tripped a fuse, and my transmission initially locked in 1st gear and wouldnt shift, luckily the bike stayed running long enough for me to get back to my home, then it wouldn't turn on at all after turning off.....I disconnected wires used, and replaced the 6amp fuse, no problems since.....check your fuses obviously, and retrace the cruise install steps.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
EUREKA ! Turns out Healtech-electronics.com -- the same folks who sell the speedometer correction gizmo -- also sell OBD readers for most common make motorcycles.

Be careful if you order one -- there are two different versions for the CTX700 with or without the DCT.

It came the next day after I ordered it from their website, and I connected it to my laptop, downloaded the software app from the website, and presto, it read the speed sensor code that is causing the bike to lose its mind and not shift out of first.
 

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So what was the issue? Is it fixed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Finally got back to it, after a busy end of old year, and start to new year.

Wish everyone a healthy and better 2021.

As it turns out, the simple answer is, thanks to Healtech diagnostic, I was pretty sure it was the speed sensor -- or the connection.

The McCruise computer needs that input to perform its calculations, and their harness basically taps that sensor by having a plug to replace the OEM plug, and then a female connection to accept the OEM plug.

I disconnected the McCruise connection, and reattached the OEM harness directly to the speed sensor, and though 24ºF, I took the bike out on a ride of about six miles, and it performed nominally in every respect.

So I have a bike to use again, and now must reengage with the McCruise folks about troubleshooting their add-on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The genius and stellar customer support at McCruise, just from photos I sent of my non-working installation, they saw I had a 12 O'Clock Labs speedometer calibrator installed -- done so long ago I had forgotten about it. And as an aside, I note neither 12 O'clock Labs nor Heal-tech offer speedometer correction for the DCT model anymore.

I removed the speedometer calibrator, leaving only the McCruise connection tap to the bike's gearbox speed sensor.

Again, as I type, the temperature is 25ºF and blowing, and I just don't have the fortitude to get out there right now.

So back to Netflix for some mind numbing distraction until I can take out the bike and (finally) run through the setup procedure for the cruise control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
And I have completed the McCruise adjustment procedure. This is a detailed, multistep activity, taking advantage of a diagnostic mode built into the McCruise computer. With this, one adjusts the throttle cable such that the response of the cruise control is within parameters, and the throttle range is within parameters.

I am so looking forward to being able to ride with my pillion when the weather is a little better, and be able to relax my right hand as needed.

Thanks to all who participated here in helping me better understand the intricacies that are part of the beauty of the CTX700D design, and makes me appreciate it even more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
And lastly, the connector on the McCruise harness that takes the place of the bike's connector to the speed sensor on top of the transmission -- had bent pins.

ALWAYS ALWAYS check the easy things first.

I straightened those pins, and PRESTO ! The bike came to life. The cruise control is nominal.
 
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