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With my boots and riding position I felt I had to reach under the shift lever more than I liked so I adjusted it higher for a more relaxed position for shifting.

The rod is pretty easy to get to if you lay on the floor next to the bike. My picture is with all the plastic removed.

Just remember one end is right hand thread and one end left hand thread. So pushing the wrench down on both ends will either tighten or loosen it (I don't remember which way is tight or loose). Loosen each end and run the loose nuts up the thread about a half inch. turn the rod slowly by hand as a little goes a long way. Do no turn it enough to fall out of the ends. Sockets moved more apart raises the shifter. Sit on the bike and put you foot about where you like to ride to the left of the shifter rubber. Ideally the rubber should point to the middle of you shoe so you have equal distance up or down to get under or over the pedal. Run the nuts back up against the ends and tighten each end. There should be slack enough to rotate the rode in the sockets. if not you should loosed one end and turn the socket, hold it and retighten the nut. Test ride and see if it is better.

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Fantastic Bill! I didn't even know this was possible as a DIY adjustment. This has been my biggest complaint so far affecting the ease of riding for me. When I wear suitable riding footwear, I can just barely get my foot under the shift pedal. This makes me want to wear unsuitable footwear, but I recently found some water proof riding boots on clearance for $25 at Cycle Gear, and while I can get my foot under it pretty easily wearing those, I now have the problem that once my foot is under it, the padded upper foot sometimes presses against the shifter without me being able to feel it, so when I pull in on the clutch and go to shift, it does not shift. After a few rides, I've now compensated for this, but I have to take the conscious step of making sure I'm pointing my toes forward once I'm under the foot shifter. I think that a slight upward adjustment is just what I need.
 

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Awesome Info! I usually wear steel toe shoes and have a hard time pointing my toes down far enough to shift comfortably. Thanks for the post!
 

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I adjusted mine up about 3/4" from the original position using this method. I noticed that I didn't have very many threads engaged, so I removed the rear lever arm and reindexed it forward one spline. That gave me plenty of room to thread the rod back on. Big improvement! Thanks for the tip!
 

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Shifter??? What shifter? Can't find it on my DCT! :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
jmc.... there is one in every crowd... very good
 
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Finally got around to making this adjustment after deciding to go back with work boots while riding. Makes this doable and simplifies my commute and my life considerably. Had to make a significant adjustment to keep the top of my boot from resting on the bottom of shift pedal while riding in acceleration mode. I bought some new boots, which were a little thinner than my steel toes, but I was still missing my up shifts if I wasn't conscious of the up pressure on the pedal when waiting for the next up shift.

Thanks again Bill!
 

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You're my hero Bill. I put on my boards last night and had to mount them parallel to the ground to get my foot under the shifter. This was a less than comfortable position for riding. I took a quick look at the shift mechanism but didn't see the adjustment rod last night. Found this after a little googling and now I know right where to go look. This should really help with the comfort level. I wear a size 14 shoe and I think the shifter was designed for someone with smaller feet hehe.
 

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JMC, your DCT shifter is under the seat.
 

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With my boots and riding position I felt I had to reach under the shift lever more than I liked so I adjusted it higher for a more relaxed position for shifting.

The rod is pretty easy to get to if you lay on the floor next to the bike. My picture is with all the plastic removed.

Just remember one end is right hand thread and one end left hand thread. So pushing the wrench down on both ends will either tighten or loosen it (I don't remember which way is tight or loose). Loosen each end and run the loose nuts up the thread about a half inch. turn the rod slowly by hand as a little goes a long way. Do no turn it enough to fall out of the ends. Sockets moved more apart raises the shifter. Sit on the bike and put you foot about where you like to ride to the left of the shifter rubber. Ideally the rubber should point to the middle of you shoe so you have equal distance up or down to get under or over the pedal. Run the nuts back up against the ends and tighten each end. There should be slack enough to rotate the rode in the sockets. if not you should loosed one end and turn the socket, hold it and retighten the nut. Test ride and see if it is better.

View attachment 1218
HOW far will it adjust? Just put on Floorboards today, they are parallel to make my foot fit and I will be adjusting when I get home from work.
 

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Ok, adjusted the floorboards and the rod has enough threads to go beyond what I needed. Was apprehensive that I would have to make a new rod. Had to do that on a Yamaha when I got the extensions to move the pegs.
 

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With my boots and riding position I felt I had to reach under the shift lever more than I liked so I adjusted it higher for a more relaxed position for shifting.

The rod is pretty easy to get to if you lay on the floor next to the bike. My picture is with all the plastic removed.

Just remember one end is right hand thread and one end left hand thread. So pushing the wrench down on both ends will either tighten or loosen it (I don't remember which way is tight or loose). Loosen each end and run the loose nuts up the thread about a half inch. turn the rod slowly by hand as a little goes a long way. Do no turn it enough to fall out of the ends. Sockets moved more apart raises the shifter. Sit on the bike and put you foot about where you like to ride to the left of the shifter rubber. Ideally the rubber should point to the middle of you shoe so you have equal distance up or down to get under or over the pedal. Run the nuts back up against the ends and tighten each end. There should be slack enough to rotate the rode in the sockets. if not you should loosed one end and turn the socket, hold it and retighten the nut. Test ride and see if it is better.

View attachment 1218
Super helpful, thank you!
 

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Being lazy, I didn't mess with the rod itself at all when positioning the front pedal. Remember I have the heel shifter, so I wanted the front pedal fairly low (since I no longer lift the front). So, I just removed the top bolt and lifted off the rear arm and rotated it until the pedal was where I needed it to be.
 

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Is there such a thing as a slightly longer rod? I would feel better with a longer rod that allows more threads to be engaged.
 

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Is there such a thing as a slightly longer rod? I would feel better with a longer rod that allows more threads to be engaged.
You won't need a longer rod. The threads on both ends are more than enough to take the light duty stresses called for in normal use. Actually, I recommend that you rotate the trailing arm one or two "notches" before messing with the rod adjustment.
 

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I did rotate the shifter arm on the transmission forward one notch. I tried two notches but for some reason the transmission didn't wouldn't change gears. So I went back to one notch forward. However, with the foot shifter raised about an inch, I only get about a quarter of an inch engagement on the threads. Is that really enough??

I went for a very short ride yesterday and my shoe fit under the shifter and I didn't miss any shifts, but I guess I'm still a bit paranoid.
 
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