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...Would you know which pins to jump and how to clear the old codes?

This information is not difficult to find in service manual, page 4-9.

But I need to ask - why you want to clear DTC? It wouldn't help with anything. It just delete valuable reference information for service technician.
 

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Ares301, simply put, with my car, after I resolve the problem, i clear the code(s). I currently don’t have any issues with my bike, good to know these things before i have a problem, when possible.
 

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Dealer has a 2016 Africa Twin DCT for 10.9k. Had I not had an adventure bike I’m in love with, I would hit it. The seat is just fine for my 32 inseam, and the low option would be perfect, and it feels not top heavy at all.
 
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Darthzod - Since your problem may very well turn up on someone else's CTX (like mine) it would be great if you could call the service department at the dealership and see if they can tell you what they finally figured out the problem was. I've been there and it sure does suck to go through all the hassle and expense and, in the end, find out it was some simple sensor or something like that.

Thanks.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Darthzod - Since your problem may very well turn up on someone else's CTX (like mine) it would be great if you could call the service department at the dealership and see if they can tell you what they finally figured out the problem was. I've been there and it sure does suck to go through all the hassle and expense and, in the end, find out it was
some simple sensor or something like that.

Thanks.
Steve

Well everyone,

I called the dealership yesterday and asked about my old bike.

The rep I spoke to said they had to flash the ECU to get it to run right.

From what I can gather from that is:

1 The lithium battery I purchased may have damaged the ECU. Or...
2 When I attempted to reset my DCT after my last oil change, I did something wrong. And that caused the ECU to crap out. Or...
3 I simply had too many electric farckles plugged into my battery.


Moral of the story I suppose is: be careful with the electronic bits with the CTX. She's a fickle beast.


John
 

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howdy , thanks john fer following up that all they had to do was trick the little gremlins by promising them a nicer ecu and they left--hopefully problem solved.
ken
 

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$.02 more

Well everyone,

I called the dealership yesterday and asked about my old bike.

The rep I spoke to said they had to flash the ECU to get it to run right.

From what I can gather from that is:

1 The lithium battery I purchased may have damaged the ECU. Or...
2 When I attempted to reset my DCT after my last oil change, I did something wrong. And that caused the ECU to crap out. Or...
3 I simply had too many electric farckles plugged into my battery.


Moral of the story I suppose is: be careful with the electronic bits with the CTX. She's a fickle beast.


John
Just for fun, went thru this old thread (11/18 to 1/19). I remain a little skeptical about what the dealership said; ("flash the ECU...to run right"), because I don't know if the "loose shift pin issue" was checked & ruled out. However, I do believe in the need for a fully functional electrical system starting with the battery, of course.
Though the mechanical issue seems to be rare, it may be legit. Jus' sayin'...
 

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I try to follow DCT issues on the CTX and NC models to be prepared with a competent strategy to diagnose any problems I may encounter. I cant afford to pay a dealer top dollar who through inexperience or incompetence just throws ridiculously marked up parts at it at my expense. The first accessory every DCT owner should get their hands on is the Service Manual. I have both a hard copy and the PDF that can be found here and I always use the PDF version due to the “Find Text” function in Adobe works great for research.

I believe it is possible if as he says after he did his last oil change he did a “ Clutch Initialize Learning Reset” Page 12-81 and started having issues. Maybe this is what the dealer meant by flash the computer. This is a pretty involved process and can be unsuccessful page 12-83. Some people have done this reset and claimed that it makes the bike shift smoother. Probably would not want to try it with a weak battery. This has to be done with the key on and if you screw around to long you could run the battery down while doing it. I have a fairly new battery installed and my voltage monitor reads 13.1v after riding it today and as soon as I turn the key on it immediately drops to 12.4v, so the headlight is a huge draw. If you have a DCT I would not turn the key on until your ready to start the engine. No bump starting a DCT.;)
 

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The code reader I purchased off eBay will not connect - worthless. Still looking for that reader that actually works.
 

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I kind of recall maurimy posting a reference to one in the past. May be wrong . Healtech is known to work on Honda motorcycles,

Can you just rent one (loaner really, as long as you return it) at Advance Auto, AutoZone, or O'Riley near your home?
 

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The code reader I purchased off eBay will not connect - worthless. Still looking for that reader that actually works.
I'm pretty sure you just need a fancy paperclip. You short the brown and green wires in the DLC connector like in the service manual page 4-9.

87028


If there are no engine codes, then you can proceed to use the fancy paperclip tool using the instructions on page 12-9 of the service manual.

87029


Manually erase DCT DTCs ....

87031
 

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