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Discussion Starter #1
Warning, long winded post coming:


Ladies and Gentlemen, it's been a rough year for me and my CTX.

About 4 months ago, I hit 40,000 miles on my bike.

At that time, I went ahead and performed a valve clearance check, oil change, filter change (both oil, and air), and even through a new chain and sprockets on for good measure.

It was a wonderful feeling, to know that I was staying on top of the regular maintenance schedule for my daily driver.



Not even a week after performing all this maintenance, my bike did something it had never done before:

  • I was driving home from work in the afternoon, doing about 70 on the freeway, and all of a sudden, the bike is no longer in gear.
  • I look down just in time to see the gear indicator go from "5" to "-" and begin blinking.
So, frantically, I pull over, in the middle of rush hour traffic, on a busy freeway, to figure out what's going on.

Eventually, I decide to turn the bike off and hope that it resets, which it did.



I limp the bike back home, another 15 miles or so and wonder if my transmission is going out.

I come here, looking for clues, and find a few posts talking about "limp" mode, and issues with sensors, so i decide to dig in and figure this out myself.



I ordered the jumper tool for the DTC port under the seat and waited.....


2 weeks goes by and it arrives. I immediately plug it in and turn the bike on.

Code after code is coming through, and they all appear to the same: Oil Pressure Sensor.

"ok" I think, "I know what I need to do now"; I order three OPSs from Cheap Cycle Parts.

Parts arrive a week later, get them installed, after purchasing the largest box end wrench I've ever seen to get them off, and take her for a drive.



Bike shifts through the gears like she was brand new.

I'm feeling pretty good with myself at this point, so on a Saturday morning, I decide to take her for a spin downtown to run some errands...


I get to the bank to pull some money out for my son, and as I'm getting ready to shut the bike down....it won't go into neutral.

I hit the button and just hear a repeated "click, click, click.click". So I kill the bike, go in and pull the money out, and fire it back up.

A loud "clunk" occurs and the bike goes back into neutral. I ride it back home with a heavy heart.



I plug in the DTC tool and look at the codes.....TR switch fault
Back to Cheap Cycle Parts, order the part, and wait.



New part arrives, almost two weeks later, and I install it with minimal issue.

Bike now shifts into neutral when I hit the button.

I drive the bike for a week before it gets cold and wet (I live in the Pacific North West).



This is now something that I've been troubleshooting for a couple of months.
I've spent close to $400 in sensors and countless weekend hours tinkering with.
I feel like I've conquered the issue and am looking forward to gearing up for the winter commute once things dry up a bit.



Yesterday, I ride into work...confident, content, happy to be back on the bike.

Ride in....event free.

Ride home.......


5 miles away from home, I'm on a highway doing 50 trying to merge over to the left so I can make my exit.

blinker is on, bike is in 4rth to give me the oomph i need to clear cars.

I'm accelerating into the far right lane, and "VROOOOMM!!!!" my bike is no longer in gear.

I'm stuck in neutral, and the "-" is on my gear indicator.



I coast to a stop, shut the bike off, contemplate my thoughts on the tree of woe, and fire the bike back up again.

"Clunk!" back into neutral, kick it to first and I'm off again.



At this point, I haven't looked at the DTC codes yet.
I really don't want to anymore.

I bought this bike nearly 4 years ago, thinking it was going to be dependable, reliable, and Honda tough, like my car with over 270,000 miles on it.


Can anyone tell me what could be going on here?


I love the idea behind the DCT,

I can think of no better solution for commuting in stop and go traffic in Seattle, but this is killing my desire to even own one now.



Thanks for any insight you fine people can provide



John
 

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John,


Now worries about the length. More info is always better, plus, I'm the king of verbosity - got multiple useless degrees (and a whole lot of student debt) to prove it. :nerd::D


I can't offer much by way of mechanical advice, but at this point, based on what you've said, a trip to the dealer might be in order. I'm all about DIY when I can, but I'm also never afraid to wave the white flag and call in a professional.


My biggest concern for you is safety. It sounds like most of the issues have been "minor," but if they're happening at highway speeds, I just want to make sure you're not going to get injured.


PS - My inner geek loves your screen name. ;)
 

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Take it to your dealer or another qualified Honda Powersports center. Using the jumper tool will give you the general code but not the specifics. There may be more than one. Before replacing a sensor, you should always test it first by following the service guidelines located in your service manual (?).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks SteelSteed, I've had that name as a gamertag my whole life...it just kind of stuck around.
i have email accounts with it and it's my go to username on the "interwebs".

JFC, I was going to test the sensors using the specs in the service manual, but then I thought "eh, might as well replace them all if one is bad".
Is that not typically a good idea?

As for taking it in, I'm looking really hard at it.
I pride myself in NEVER needing a mechanic to touch my stuff, but this one has me.

I've also parked the bike after the incident yesterday.
Not interested in more hospital bills or worse to be sure :)

I guess I was venting in the hopes that an answer I hadn't thought of yet would surface.

I find myself looking at Africa Twins online as I type this....

John
 

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Thanks SteelSteed, I've had that name as a gamertag my whole life...it just kind of stuck around.
i have email accounts with it and it's my go to username on the "interwebs".

JFC, I was going to test the sensors using the specs in the service manual, but then I thought "eh, might as well replace them all if one is bad".
Is that not typically a good idea?

As for taking it in, I'm looking really hard at it.
I pride myself in NEVER needing a mechanic to touch my stuff, but this one has me.

I've also parked the bike after the incident yesterday.
Not interested in more hospital bills or worse to be sure :)

I guess I was venting in the hopes that an answer I hadn't thought of yet would surface.

I find myself looking at Africa Twins online as I type this....

John
You can replace them all but you may not cure the problem and just throwing good money out the window on perfectly good parts. A simple short may be causing the problem. Or a worn shifter pin? Could be any number of reasons. You have to start at the most obvious and then work back. If the original sensor tested good, you know it was a short or a symptom of another problem. Now you don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You can replace them all but you may not cure the problem and just throwing good money out the window on perfectly good parts. A simple short may be causing the problem. Or a worn shifter pin? Could be any number of reasons. You have to start at the most obvious and then work back. If the original sensor tested good, you know it was a short or a symptom of another problem. Now you don't know.

I'm not sure I follow JFC,



If the error code on the DTC reads a certain number, and that number referenced in the shop manual states:

  • Oil Pressure sensor 1 failure
  • low voltage Oil Pressure sensor 1
  • Bad ECU
Why would I look to there being a mechanical problem?

I've read about bad shifter pins previously on this forum.

What exactly is that? is that part of the shifter motor assembly?

Just about every error code I looked up referenced either a bad sensor, low voltage to that sensor, or there being a problem with my ECU. That's why decided to err on the side of caution.....at least I thought.....and get new sensors.



I'm checking the error codes when I get home today.
I wouldn't be surprised if I get a different code pointing to yet another sensor failing.



Has anyone else on this forum had all these issues back to back with their bike?


John
 

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Silly question, but since it stared so soon after the maintainance... are the sprockets the OEM size? You never know...
 

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Codes can sometimes be false readings or the part was "fooled" into working improperly. The part sometimes needs to be checked to see if in fact it was faulty. In a car if you got a fault that said air conditioner fan faulty, but air worked perfect you wouldn't replace fan just because it said so. Not all parts report/monitored by ecm.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Silly question, but since it stared so soon after the maintainance... are the sprockets the OEM size? You never know...
Yep, used the same sprocket sizes for both.
Codes can sometimes be false readings or the part was "fooled" into working improperly. The part sometimes needs to be checked to see if in fact it was faulty. In a car if you got a fault that said air conditioner fan faulty, but air worked perfect you wouldn't replace fan just because it said so. Not all parts report/monitored by ecm.

Good point.

Update, I checked the DTC codes when I got home, and it looks like my reduction gears or my shifter motor could be bad. At least, that's what the codes are telling me now.



Debating throwing another $250-$400 at this or taking it in.



J
 

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Make sure your battery connections are good and tight, and you might need a new battery. It may start the bike but cause other funny non-specific problems.

Computers on/in vehicles can be fun...
 

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You said everything was fine until you changed the oil and filters and your first DTC was oil pressure sensor. I would pull the cover on the DCT filter that appears to be right next to the OPS’S if you changed it and make sure that it is oriented properly , solid metal face out. It says on the face of it towards filter cover. Insure that the spring is in the right place and the fat o-ring insert is not missing that faces the inner engine as in the parts diagram. If you bought the Honda filter this would have been installed into the filter already and make sure the old one came off with the old filter and you didn’t double up. This wont cost you anything and should eliminate anything to do with the oil change as being the culprit. The three OPS choices are failure , low voltage, bad ECU. If its low voltage and it gets that from The ECU then possibly the ECU is intermittently getting low voltage from a loose battery terminal or a battery that’s going bad. I would definitely check the battery connection and then remove it, fully charge it then have it load tested so there is no doubt that its not the battery. The odds of all of these parts being bad is slim. It has to be one thing causing them all to randomly complain and below minimum voltage to run the computer or a millisecond loss of voltage due to a loose connection possibly could confuse the computer until you turn it off to reset it.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2014/ctx700nd-a-ctx700nd/right-crankcase-cover-2
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Make sure your battery connections are good and tight, and you might need a new battery. It may start the bike but cause other funny non-specific problems.

Computers on/in vehicles can be fun...
I did recently install a Shorai Lithium battery, due to the OEM one giving up the ghost. (about a year ago)

I checked the voltage on the battery off (12.4V) and at idle (14V).

It was the model referenced for this bike.



Could it be the amperage is off?


John
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You said everything was fine until you changed the oil and filters and your first DTC was oil pressure sensor. I would pull the cover on the DCT filter that appears to be right next to the OPS’S if you changed it and make sure that it is oriented properly , solid metal face out. It says on the face of it towards filter cover. Insure that the spring is in the right place and the fat o-ring insert is not missing that faces the inner engine as in the parts diagram. If you bought the Honda filter this would have been installed into the filter already and make sure the old one came off with the old filter and you didn’t double up. This wont cost you anything and should eliminate anything to do with the oil change as being the culprit. The three OPS choices are failure , low voltage, bad ECU. If its low voltage and it gets that from The ECU then possibly the ECU is intermittently getting low voltage from a loose battery terminal or a battery that’s going bad. I would definitely check the battery connection and then remove it, fully charge it then have it load tested so there is no doubt that its not the battery. The odds of all of these parts being bad is slim. It has to be one thing causing them all to randomly complain and below minimum voltage to run the computer or a millisecond loss of voltage due to a loose connection possibly could confuse the computer until you turn it off to reset it.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2014/ctx700nd-a-ctx700nd/right-crankcase-cover-2

That was actually one of the first things I did when the issue came up.

I assumed I had installed the filter incorrectly (Even though I had done it a few times before).

Filter was good. Seals were good (preinstalled). Spring was good.



I mentioned earlier, that I purchased a Lithium battery for my bike a little bit before the oil change (earlier in the year).



I posted the voltage readings at idle and while running.



Should I be looking to do something else to test the battery?


J
 

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There have been issues with some people and some lithium batteries....
Yea, a lot. The DCT is very sensitive to voltage/amps. My NM4 was at dealer once for work, and they let the battery go dead since I couldn't get back for a while. They jumped it, then it wouldn't go into gear. Had to put it on the charger for while until I could leave. Personally I like sticking to factory type battery. I have trouble on the road, can easily be warrantied or replaced. Cheaper too and my CTX is going on 4-5 years stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yea, a lot. The DCT is very sensitive to voltage/amps. My NM4 was at dealer once for work, and they let the battery go dead since I couldn't get back for a while. They jumped it, then it wouldn't go into gear. Had to put it on the charger for while until I could leave. Personally I like sticking to factory type battery. I have trouble on the road, can easily be warrantied or replaced. Cheaper too and my CTX is going on 4-5 years stock.

Well, the cost of a lead battery is a lot less then the parts I'm looking at replacing.

Perhaps it's time to switch back and see what happens.



J
 

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I did recently install a Shorai Lithium battery, due to the OEM one giving up the ghost. (about a year ago)

I checked the voltage on the battery off (12.4V) and at idle (14V).

It was the model referenced for this bike.
Could it be the amperage is off?
John
Don’t know anything about the lithium batteries but I think 12.4 is way low for a lithium. My last battery would charge to 12.9V on a charger but as soon as I load tested it dropped to 11.9 resting. Did it again same result. The battery could reach and maintain its voltage but lost its capacity and as soon as it was challenged with a load it lost its voltage. So a load test is the best way to accurately judge a battery because just looking at the voltage does not tell the whole story. According to the Shorai website if I have the right battery it says “ For batteries that are left in bikes that will sit for long periods between rides, it is important to charge the battery if the resting voltage drops to 13.1V”. Turn the key on and then check the voltage while on. The headlight is a huge draw I think it will drive it way below 12 V.

https://shoraipower.com/home1/charging
 

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Don’t know anything about the lithium batteries but I think 12.4 is way low for a lithium. My last battery would charge to 12.9V on a charger but as soon as I load tested it dropped to 11.9 resting. Did it again same result. The battery could reach and maintain its voltage but lost its capacity and as soon as it was challenged with a load it lost its voltage. So a load test is the best way to accurately judge a battery because just looking at the voltage does not tell the whole story. According to the Shorai website if I have the right battery it says “ For batteries that are left in bikes that will sit for long periods between rides, it is important to charge the battery if the resting voltage drops to 13.1V”. Turn the key on and then check the voltage while on. The headlight is a huge draw I think it will drive it way below 11 V.

https://shoraipower.com/home1/charging

Knowing that, I could very well be looking at a bad battery.

I'm stopping at CycleGear to pick up a Yuasa lead acid battery today.

I'll also check the Lithium battery voltage while the bike is just on without engine running.



Thanks for the input.



J
 

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If changing the battery does the trick that would be awesome!
On the other hand it will be unfortunate that you spent so much money on the other parts.
I hope this works out for you.

Doug
 

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Knowing that, I could very well be looking at a bad battery.

I'm stopping at CycleGear to pick up a Yuasa lead acid battery today.

I'll also check the Lithium battery voltage while the bike is just on without engine running.

Thanks for the input.

J
Take the battery to a bike shop and have it tested before you spend more money on a new one. They might do it for free in the hopes of selling you a new one. You may find all it needs is a charge.
 
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