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Discussion Starter #1
hey there....any videos for valve adjustment on the ctx?...my first one and it does not look complicated but videos,done correctly:are always a big help...might save some unnecessary steps and prevent newbie mistakes and damage....any input would be greatly appreciated...thanks pat
 

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you'll need a cam cover gasket, about 30 bucks
probably won't be in stock so order it before you take anything apart
have done it twice and, for me, it's easier to remove the radiator, time for new coolant anyway
once you get all the crap out of the way the actual adjusting takes maybe 6 min.
 

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You must use a 50/50 mix coolant specifically rated for aluminum engines. I normally use Pro Honda HP coolant since the price is competitive and it meets all their requirements.
 

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I was told that some of the signs your bike is in need of valve adjustment is if your bike is sometimes hard to start and degradation in fuel economy. I have 25,000 kilometers and want to do the adjustment myself but too busy lately. But the bike starts instantly every time and my bike still gets great fuel economy-about 70MPG.

So can you use the fact that your bike fires up fine and still maintaining great fuel economy as a indicator that your valves are still fine?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
good morning.....i would guess no....never heard or read that.....mostly you are checking the clearances....it appears to me that the ctx is designed better with harder valve seats so the exhaust valves do not continue to seat as much as with other motorcycles i have owned..my concours needed the exhaust valves adjusted every time....they continued to seat even at 44,000miles...soooo.....my first adjustment they were off some but it is always prudent to check...not so difficult and will get easier every time after that....
 

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I was told that some of the signs your bike is in need of valve adjustment is if your bike is sometimes hard to start and degradation in fuel economy. I have 25,000 kilometers and want to do the adjustment myself but too busy lately. But the bike starts instantly every time and my bike still gets great fuel economy-about 70MPG.

So can you use the fact that your bike fires up fine and still maintaining great fuel economy as a indicator that your valves are still fine?
Yea.....NO! The valve check is to make sure the valves, seats, and top end remain in good condition and continue to do what they are designed to do. A slight adjustment here and there just keeps them from being damaged or worn out. Waiting till fuel mpg drops off or the bike wont start means you waited too long and most likely are facing very expensive repairs.
 

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I have beenbtold by many mechanics that that is generally true. Starts good, good fuel mileage, dont worry. It is a HONDA. You would know right away if it didn't start normally. Did mine after about 20000 and everything within spec. I think they are just covering their buts in case the builder had a bad day. I posed a question quite a while ago asking if with all these valve checks has anyone had the valves out of the clearance specifications. As of now I still haven't heard of any. Dealer sure isn't going to tell you that it was perfect even if it was. They make good bucks doing this.If the clearance is going to change why 8000. They could get out of whack at any time, 2000, 3000, 5000. I asked the mechanic at the Honda dealership and he smiled and said Quote you will check them once. Just my opinion. If it worries you, get them checked. 8000 miles, that is a couple of times a year for a lot of riders. That is a lot of extra maintenence charges for some if you are paying a dealer to do it all when you factor in oil changes, air filter changes valve checks and tires. In 5 years you would have the price of the bike in maintenence fees.
 

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Yea.....NO! The valve check is to make sure the valves, seats, and top end remain in good condition and continue to do what they are designed to do. A slight adjustment here and there just keeps them from being damaged or worn out. Waiting till fuel mpg drops off or the bike wont start means you waited too long and most likely are facing very expensive repairs.
My CTX was suppose to be a starter bike but I love this bike and wanna keep it going as long as I can. Maybe everything is fine but maybe the valves are off too and hate to think I'm damaging my baby.

I'm gonna have to just waste a whole Sat or Sun getting this done. Seems simple and straight forward. Nothing complicated. Just need time to get it done since its my first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well...i would say that it is prudent to check....better to err on the side of caution.....from the factory should be good but why chance it on a new machine....good learning curve too.....nice new clean bike....changing the oil any way and a good time to change the coolant
too
 

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I do my own. Its not difficult and I actually enjoy working on the bike. The first 8000 mile check only needed a very slight adjustment. It would have been fine running the bike till the next check but when in Rome.... At 16,000, the #1 exhaust valve was still in spec but close and the #2 exhaust valve was barely out of spec and needed a small adjustment. Since then, I have been doing a small adjustment every 16,000 miles. I put a lot of miles on my bike so it usually works out to twice a year. I also work on several other CTX's and found basically the same thing. Usually around 16,000 miles, the exhaust valves will need a slight adjustment. I did run across a 2016 CTX that needed adjustment every 8000 miles. Both intake and exhaust would be out of spec. just enough to warrant adjustment. The bike has about 36,000 miles on it now and still runs like new. The owner loves it.
 

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Who's gone the longest without a valve check? Just curious. Mine has 12.5k on it. Starts great no noises since new. Mileage consistent. Although on my last long trip it did drop. I chalk that up to consistently riding 100 miles at a time at 70. Plus new hard bags. And pretty loaded down. So while I was normally getting 68, I was in the 62 to 64 range. But the specs say 64 anyway. I'd hate to tear it down for nothing. And at the first sign of any weird noise in it would go. That wouldn't be near damage time material. Hydraulic valves though be standard on any engine. My 2 cents.
 

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well...i would say that it is prudent to check....better to err on the side of caution.....from the factory should be good but why chance it on a new machine....good learning curve too.....nice new clean bike....changing the oil any way and a good time to change the coolant
too
I think when I change the coolant I'll have them checked at that time. Gotta tear it down anyway.
 

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My First Valve Adjustment at 28,000km (17,400 miles).

I have the naked bike and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be because I didn't have to remove the two big side fairings. Which I did in the end anyways because I wanted to change the air filter few weeks later. But for those with naked version you only have to remove two small fairings covering the radiator. Just 2 screws with allen key. Removing the radiator wasn't so hard either. Disconnecting the cable connectors was hard due to tight space but with the help of needle nose pliers it was done under 2 minutes.

Here is my experience:

CYLINDER2 (Brake Side) CYLINDER1 (Clutch Side)
TOP Valves
INTAKE (0.007+/-0.001) 0.006 0.006 0.006 0.007


BOTTOM Valves
EXHAUST (0.011+/-0.001) 0.010 0.011 0.010 0.011


Other than 3 perfect valves, the rest all needed to be loosened because they were on the tighter end of specs. None were so tight that they out of tolerance.

I bought the bike used with just 2500miles. This is my 2nd year riding her. I remember the 1st year I used to get consistently 76 to 78 MPG (3L/100km). But if I ride on a Sunday morning at quiet rural roads and gently cruise, I could get 79 to 81 MPG.

This 2nd year my MPG was 72 to 74 MPG. Quiet Sunday ride would net 75 or 76 MPG. So there was a slight drop in MPG. I thought the bike was just a little older. ie) things like a stiffer chain and more wind resistant luggage that was added was the culprit etc. And my bike started instantly every time. Never a struggle or hesitation. Except when I rode in the winter months like late Nov and early Dec. About a total of 4 times the starter struggled for about 2 seconds instead of the usual instant start.

I replaced the air filter and did the valves because of a 3 week ride adventure. During the 3 weeks I average about 76 to 78 MPG about 90% of the time. Remaining 10% I could get 79 and 80 MPG when I rode gingerly.

Is that just a correlation or cause and effect? I don't know but there was an immediate improvement in MPG. Maybe it was the air filter cause that looked nasty. I tried to load some pictures but the drag and drop is not working for me anymore.

Conclusion.

I am glad I did the valve inspection. I was worried that the valves could be badly out of specs and doing damage to my baby but not showing symptoms. But it turned out they were all within spec if just on the tighter end of those specs.

If there was a computer chip that monitored the valves and told me exactly what the specs were I still would have spent the total 4 hours the job took me. Cause first I saved about $450 to $500 CND. That was what I was quoted from 3 different garages. And it was a lot easier than I thought. In reality I didn't know if and how severely the valves were out of spec so it gave me peace of mind.

Most importantly, it was actually really enjoyable and fun. I'm growing attached to this little bike that does just about everything well. I got to know a bit more about my Iron Horse and my MPG did go up a bit. Next time I think I can do the valves in just 2 hours now.
 

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I do my own. Its not difficult and I actually enjoy working on the bike. The first 8000 mile check only needed a very slight adjustment. It would have been fine running the bike till the next check but when in Rome.... At 16,000, the #1 exhaust valve was still in spec but close and the #2 exhaust valve was barely out of spec and needed a small adjustment. Since then, I have been doing a small adjustment every 16,000 miles. I put a lot of miles on my bike so it usually works out to twice a year. I also work on several other CTX's and found basically the same thing. Usually around 16,000 miles, the exhaust valves will need a slight adjustment. I did run across a 2016 CTX that needed adjustment every 8000 miles. Both intake and exhaust would be out of spec. just enough to warrant adjustment. The bike has about 36,000 miles on it now and still runs like new. The owner loves it.
I do Most my own service last 53yrs. My bikes with screw and nuts valves adjusters. (Beemer boxers etc) like ctx. Simple to adjust, but go out more often. Depends on the bike tho... My ctx. 8 k. One adjust. Skipped the 16k Just did the 24k. 2valves were 1thousant tight / adjusted. Love the bike
 
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