starting mystery....thoughts? - Honda CTX700 Forum
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post #1 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-03-2020, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Cool starting mystery....thoughts?

OK, so I started up the 2015 CTXDCT after a month or so of sitting (mid-Florida; great weather) and drove about 3 miles into a WaWa to check tire pressure so turned her off. Tires OK and turned on the key, wait 5 secs for everything to settle and....click. Again, click. Just one click each time. Tried about 5 more times after doing a mental and physical check of all conditions with no luck. Figured a marginal (original YUASA) battery so called the wife to bring me cables.

Jumped it right off, started quick like normal so I rode straight home and started to look for a replacement. However, it starts right up after I pulled in and shut her down. Checked the battery and it's at 13.0v and the automatic charger says it's at 100%. Turned it to the 2amp setting and after about 30 seconds the charger kicks off and says all is well at 100%.

I guess it's probably time for a new battery anyway but now I'm concerned just what the heck happened. Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-03-2020, 09:03 PM
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Top battery should be 14.4 not 13
That is probably exactly what is wrong...
Had the same thing happen
New battery ...
I'm good...


Perfect start everytime....
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This a test signiture
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post #3 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-03-2020, 09:05 PM
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You need a battery. Volts don't mean much here, it is all about the amp's. You need a lot of current to turn the starter motor and current is amp's!


If you ever forget, just remember most batteries are rated by cold cranking amps (CCA) and that is cause that is when the battery works the hardest, cranking and in the cold is the worst case scenario and the amp's are what you need.
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post #4 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-03-2020, 09:43 PM
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howdy, had the same problem. started fine and drove 4 miles and shut off. when trying to re-start, just clicks. jump start fine. it worked one more time and failed again. new battery solved problem. the battery had lasted from new and made five years.
get a new one. almost gaurantee that's the problem.
ken
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post #5 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-03-2020, 09:59 PM
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Unsolicited advice, buy an AGM Yuasa battery. Easy three years in Florida...about 110.00, or 35 bucks a year for peace of mind. And, someone here in the forum gave me the advice to check the date code when you get the battery...make sure it's relatively new!
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Last edited by mzflorida; 02-05-2020 at 07:20 AM. Reason: Typo
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post #6 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny W. Burdick View Post
Top battery should be 14.4 not 13
That is probably exactly what is wrong...
Had the same thing happen
New battery ...
I'm good...


Perfect start everytime....
I’m sure he is talking 13V with bike off. That’s where a good 12V battery will be at.

It could be a time for replacement, or not. Bike was sitting for 1 month, it started, 3 mile ride is not even close to enough to charging it, so it failed to re-start. Nothing to lose trying it now that’s properly charged. Again, 3 mile rides won’t do to keep it charged.

At 5 years, if it is the original, chances are it is time for a new one.
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post #7 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 06:45 AM
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I worked in a battery shop in the military waaaaay back....
A good non-technical explanation is....
It's all about capacity....amperage.....not voltage....voltage is just the road capacity uses to do work...


A new battery is like a full bathtub
An old battery is like a shot glass


They both can be "FULL" but a shot glass won't do it while a bathtub has plenty of capacity...

This a test signiture
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post #8 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 11:28 AM
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I have a 2014 CTX DCT and I have found that the headlight will be bright but it will not crank. The system needs to see 11.9 volts or better with key on or it will not crank. That is what my testing has found.

Ride baby ride.
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post #9 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 12:54 PM
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Make sure you always put it in neutral before you shut it off. If the battery is weak when you turn the key on, the headlight is burning on a fused 15 amp circuit, the fuel pump runs and the shift motor has to run to reset the transmission to neutral before you even hit the starter button. If its already in neutral you have lightened the load and wear and tear on the battery and shift motor. Take the battery to most any auto parts dealer that sell batteries or Batteries Plus and have it tested for free. Most can do a conductance test where they calibrate the tester to the CA or CCA of your battery to get an accurate reading of its ability to deliver cranking amps. In the video the battery passes a voltage test, carbon pile load test ,hydrometer test but fails the conductance test. Your issue could be nothing more than a loose battery terminal. I would have the battery properly tested first.
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Last edited by dgall; 02-04-2020 at 01:13 PM.
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post #10 of 94 (permalink) Old 02-04-2020, 04:47 PM
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Its 5 years old - the battery IS bad.
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