CTX700NDCT Now Mostly Dead - Honda CTX700 Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Tucson, AZ
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Unhappy CTX700NDCT Now Mostly Dead

I am the least mechanical, but I will try to detail what went on in a short order:
1) Rode Monday, all fine, getting low on gas.
2) Kid next door and I install Shad rack with seat removed. Replaced seat and put on battery tender.
3) Today, disconnect tender and starts fine and all electrical displays are fine.
4) Ride a couple blocks and start off toward gas station and suddenly it is acting like it is stuck in first gear. Realize that there is zero display and nothing electrical except my modulated headlight is fine. No turn signals, no brake lights, no display, just the headlight.
5) Tried D/S/M and no changes. Ride in bicycle lane to gas station in case that is the problem. Gas fill changes nothing.
6) Now it will go about a block in this first gear mode and then move to a Neutral equivalent by itself-no power, but engine running and revving.
7) Shut it off restart, put in D and it does the same as 6. Always starts fine
8) Limp it home and in to garage.
9) Put on battery tender.
10) Now all the above is the same except when you turn on the key you hear the sound of the fuel pump pressurizing and about 4 sounds of clunk, clunk, clunk and then that stops. Key off and try again and get exact same thing. Still only the headlight is working, even on the battery tender.
So... I am willing to try some simple stuff that you will suggest. When I get time tomorrow I will check the fuses - which ones should I zero in on?? Anything else to try.
Thanks in advance for any help. Signing off for a while and will check back later today and several times each day for a while.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Read my description. I should say now while it is doing #10 it will not start - no sounds at all when start switch is pushed.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 06:47 PM
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Battery connections tight? How old is the battery?
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 07:53 PM
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Everything you have described points to electrical system. Check all fuses, pull and inspect. Check battery charge with voltmeter, engine off 12.6 is full charge depending on temperature of the battery. Then check voltage with engine running, if possible, which is a problem at the moment. Should see under 15 volts per the service manual on page 21-5 and 21-6.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 08:24 PM
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Starter relay, battery, or battery cables is my bet. I had something similar on my VFR DCT and it was a defective terminal on a brand new battery. Symptoms were similar circumstances were different. I would start there before pulling all of your fuses. Also, check your battery cables.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. I will start a good look at the battery and maybe the fuses tomorrow. Have only had the rig a little over a month. Came to me with 6K on it, so no details about battery. I did measure the voltage at 12.7 volts after it's last run on the charger.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 01:15 AM
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I would check the illum/stop/ horn and clock/turn fuses. The turn signal and brake light /combo meter are on two separate circuits. If both are blown you have a major short somewhere. Look under the Fuse box cover cap and there are 4 spare fuses under there but I think only one is a 7.5 amp. You can get these at any auto parts store. If there is any after market electrical gizmos like flashing brake lights or usb ports I would check those first. The previous owner may have tapped into these circuits which are now causing you problems. If the fuses are good, fully charge the battery and take it to Batteries Plus, auto parts store or bike shop and have it load tested. Its usually no cost and the only way to judge if the battery is good. Some older batteries can accept a full charge but are worthless under load. Hope its just the battery.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 10:53 AM
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Check the voltage while cranking. Shouldn't go below about 10 volts (?). This is a good load test.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 11:49 AM
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If it's not cranking, most likely a bad battery that won't hold a charge. Take it to a local car supplier like O'reily and they can test the battery for a load.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Although it had been in the back of my mind dgall's note set me in the right direction. I had indeed added a brake light modulator a couple weeks ago. So, I looked there first. All the wires had come loose from their wire nuts and were bouncing around. Also, a couple have sections of insulation warren off from vibration. Who knows which ones might have touched each other and caused a short. One of the previous owners had added LED brake lights around the license plate frame. For some reason he used VERY light wire - like smaller than even a junk speaker wire would be. So, I am headed out to just cut the modulator out of the circuit and cap the ends of his wire, I can't even see where/what he tapped in to. After capping those wires I will start looking at the fuses. Keep your fingers crossed for me. Will update you tomorrow. As always. THANKS, for all the contributions.
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