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Thread: CTX700NDCT Now Mostly Dead Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
12-02-2019 01:36 PM
Piaras
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjcintucson View Post
dgall nailed it and I am forever in his gratitude. Everything went exactly as stated above, and I had to rock the bike while it was making those clunking sounds. The battery had charged to 12.8 and started the rig right up after the rocking. THANK YOU again to everybody. My Thanksgiving will be much better not worrying about Otto. Chuck
Good going. Just a fuse and a rocking put your ride back in action.
11-29-2019 10:25 AM
SteveDCT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Piaras View Post
2.12 X 6 equals ? Volts
12.72 - Not sure why I needed to do basic math for you. Engineering tip - If you start out with incorrect data it doesn't matter what you multiply it by.

Now take a voltmeter to a battery store and measure new, fully charged batteries and see what you get. Or for more fun and education, run the exact experiment I did with new and old batteries.

Steve
11-26-2019 04:04 PM
explorecaves Make sure from here on out you put it in neutral before turning it off. Will save you lots of headache later as you now well know.
11-26-2019 03:07 PM
cjcintucson
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgall View Post
The clunking noise you hear is probably the shift control motor trying to reset the transmission into neutral. The bike will not start unless its in neutral. When you turn the key on check the display and see if the neutral light is on and that there is no minus sign { - } where the gear numbers should appear indicating a transmission issue. If it is not in neutral and or you have the - sign you will need to rock the bike forward and back to rack or loosen up the transmission to allow the gears to be slid back into the neutral position by the shift motor. This is referenced in the owners manual under troubleshooting page 104 in my book “If the “-” indicator is blinking”.
dgall nailed it and I am forever in his gratitude. Everything went exactly as stated above, and I had to rock the bike while it was making those clunking sounds. The battery had charged to 12.8 and started the rig right up after the rocking. THANK YOU again to everybody. My Thanksgiving will be much better not worrying about Otto. Chuck
11-26-2019 01:01 PM
maurimy It is about the internal resistance. A fully charged battery should be loaded and notice the voltage drop. You can use starter motor and simultaneously check the voltage. I would say that below 9 volts during start would mean bad battery or loose battery connectors.
11-26-2019 06:43 AM
Piaras
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveDCT View Post
No, a new healthy battery should show 12.9 to maybe a little over 13. 12.6-12.7 is getting weak. 12.4 is a battery in need of replacement.

I ran some careful experiments on measuring batteries a few years back. If you take a 12.4 battery and let it sit on a charger for a day and then remove the charger, the battery will measure 13+ or so. This does not indicate that you have recharged the battery and "fixed the problem". You need to let the battery sit for 24-36 hours. A new healthy battery will slowly discharge over 24 hours and stabilize around 12.9 or so. A battery needing replacement will slowly discharge over 24 - 36 hours to around 12.4 or so. You have to wait until the battery voltage stabilizes in order to get a measurement that means anything.

If that battery is stabilizing at 12.7, it's should be still OK but is not a good healthy battery.

Steve

2.12 X 6 equals ? Volts
11-26-2019 12:43 AM
dgall The clunking noise you hear is probably the shift control motor trying to reset the transmission into neutral. The bike will not start unless its in neutral. When you turn the key on check the display and see if the neutral light is on and that there is no minus sign { - } where the gear numbers should appear indicating a transmission issue. If it is not in neutral and or you have the - sign you will need to rock the bike forward and back to rack or loosen up the transmission to allow the gears to be slid back into the neutral position by the shift motor. This is referenced in the owners manual under troubleshooting page 104 in my book “If the “-” indicator is blinking”.
11-25-2019 06:27 PM
cjcintucson
Quote:
Originally Posted by olegoat345 View Post
get a 12v test light, local auto store or HF, they're cheap. Ground the "clip" to the neg. - batt. post, test by touching the pos.+ post. Use the sharp point to check each side of your fuses (with the key on) by touching it in the tiny holes in the top of each fuse. Both sides should light. "Wire nuts"are for house wiring, not something that's moving & shaking like a MC. They should be crimped. P/U a kit at your local auto store or HF. 18ga wire is okay for LED brake lights. Seems like in the the last 8-10 years all 12v systems have gone to much smaller wire..... keep us posted on how you're doing..... good luck.
Wow, this is the tip of the century. With the voltmeter I tested all my fuses in place in about 30 sec. It was indeed the 7.5 that dgall suggested, the ilum/stop/horn fuse. Now the display lights entirely, but still no start, and that 5 clunks when I turn on the ignition still exist. So now on to testing the battery and load and also the starter relay. I will keep you posted. Again, thanks to all for the great tips to a 71 year old not very mechanically/electrically inclined man.
11-24-2019 10:42 PM
SteveDCT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Piaras View Post
.......................... Check battery charge with voltmeter, engine off 12.6 is full charge depending on temperature of the battery. ...........................
No, a new healthy battery should show 12.9 to maybe a little over 13. 12.6-12.7 is getting weak. 12.4 is a battery in need of replacement.

I ran some careful experiments on measuring batteries a few years back. If you take a 12.4 battery and let it sit on a charger for a day and then remove the charger, the battery will measure 13+ or so. This does not indicate that you have recharged the battery and "fixed the problem". You need to let the battery sit for 24-36 hours. A new healthy battery will slowly discharge over 24 hours and stabilize around 12.9 or so. A battery needing replacement will slowly discharge over 24 - 36 hours to around 12.4 or so. You have to wait until the battery voltage stabilizes in order to get a measurement that means anything.

If that battery is stabilizing at 12.7, it's should be still OK but is not a good healthy battery.

Steve
11-24-2019 06:18 PM
cjcintucson Thanks for your help and encouragement. I will be taking another look tomorrow afternoon.
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